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Cam Help
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43806		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  Dizzydean [ Sun Feb 27, 2011 9:04 am ]
Post subject:  Cam Help
I recieved my Earson cam yesterday,read on the degreeing,watched a video on you tube and have to say I am completely lost with the whole numbers/lift things :oops: . What issues can I expect if I just install it gears lined up? Isn't the advance ground in enough? The specs are:overlap: 48.00, int open: 28.00 close: 62.00, exh. closes: 20.00 open: 70.00, running clearnce hot: .022, valve lift both: .465, duration both: 270. I've tried to understand this but have to say I am very lost :?: . Again I appreciate the help this site gives.
Author:  sandy in BC [ Sun Feb 27, 2011 9:50 am ]
Post subject: 
About 1/2 the time you just line them up..,.....its almost right.

The other half costs grief.

Get a degree wheel......read how to use it.

Its not that hard. Pick any degree number on the card and verify it.

Roll the motor over until Intake #1 starts to open

Oh look.....the intake takes up the lash at 28 BTDC........I must be close

Oh look the intake is open 270 degrees....... half of that is my intake centerline....etc

You dont need a dial indicator to get very close.

Just check to see nothing is stupid.......then keep it that way.
Author:  slantzilla [ Sun Feb 27, 2011 11:16 am ]
Post subject: 
Yeah, you can just line up the dots, but how do you know the dots are in the right place?

I had 3 roller timing sets from Mopar Performance that had the dots one tooth off on the cam gear. :shock:
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sun Feb 27, 2011 1:26 pm ]
Post subject:  Me too!
Quote:
the dots one tooth off on the cam gear.
Had the same thing happen on Ryan's last set. Must degree! must degree! must degree! :D

Rick
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Feb 27, 2011 2:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Just check to see nothing is stupid.......then keep it that way.
Excellent advice for…er…doing just about anything, really.
Author:  sandy in BC [ Sun Feb 27, 2011 2:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
Well....not ale drinkin' or dancing or hot knifing or noboarding.......but most other stuff.
Author:  wjajr [ Sun Feb 27, 2011 2:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Just check to see nothing is stupid.......then keep it that way.

I just busted every mirror in the shop…

Ahhh. Good to go.
Author:  slantfin [ Sun Feb 27, 2011 4:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
It's worth it just for the feeling you get when the number comes out right. I felt smart for about five hours!

Also, lining up the dots made the valve timing one tooth off what it should have been.
Author:  Dizzydean [ Sun Feb 27, 2011 9:01 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ok after reading the specs the timing is already 4* advanced. How far should these be set? Is there more advancing thrrough the dist? Sorry for all the ?? just dont want to have to take things apart after the fact.
Author:  Joshie225 [ Sun Feb 27, 2011 9:10 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ignition timing is independent of valve timing. You're working with the camshaft and getting it installed in the correct relation to the crankshaft.

Do you have a degree wheel? Dial indicator? Is the cylinder head on the engine?
Author:  olafla [ Sun Feb 27, 2011 9:14 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hi Dizzydean.

Do you have an engine out of the car with the cylinder head off, or do you intend to install the cam in an engine that is assembled?

There is a very (!) short thread in the 'engine' FAQ named 'Degreeing a cam', that at least show you the basic setup for using a degree wheel.

Here is one relatively good attempt to explain the process from summitracing.com.

Olaf.

Hah, a short edit: I did not intend to duplicate Josh's questions, his fingers were just faster than mine!
Author:  Dizzydean [ Mon Feb 28, 2011 4:49 am ]
Post subject: 
Olafa no problem I feel like I need to be hit on the head with this until I understand and get it.
Josh answer to all three is no. Block is on a stand waiting for the timing set to arrive should be sometime this week and the cam is still in the box. Head is on the workbench patiently waiting its turn. Im going to ask some locals if they have the tools and experience but I dont think Im going to have a lot of luck there.
Author:  olafla [ Mon Feb 28, 2011 7:43 am ]
Post subject: 
I shall not tell you what to do, but unless you are very pressed for time, don't let someone else screw up your engine!! (that you can do on your own :lol: )

What I'm saying is that there is nothing more pleasing than starting that engine after an assembly, and knowing that you understand what all the pieces do and why, and that you built it! Feel the power you made! Take your time, do it yourself, ask us for advice if you need it, and we can guide you all the way.

I don't know how familiar you are with the forum, but take a look in the sticky FAQ in the 'engine', under 'Best of Doctor Dodge'. There you'll find described total buildups of two or tree engines, covering little details you've never even dreamt of!

So my advice; sit down, take a deep breath and start reading, then scribble down a plan for rebuild stages, beg-borrow-or buy the tools you need (search the forum for clever solutions before you spend any money), and within a short time you're an expert on your own engine!

Olaf.

Oh, and first of all, get yourself a degree wheel!
Author:  69a100 [ Mon Feb 28, 2011 9:45 am ]
Post subject: 
Here's a FREE degree wheel for ya. http://www.tavia.com/free_degree_wheel.html
Author:  olafla [ Mon Feb 28, 2011 1:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
Cool!

Olaf.
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