Just curious. Where do I get a caliper hone, which brands of rebuilding kits should I use, is it a wise bet to get new pistons?

Obviously, I have never done this before. I don't trust the parts store rebuilts, so I am considering giving this a try.

Thanks,

Greg

Which type of caliper are you considering rebuilding? 4-piston, single-piston...? None of them is especially difficult to rebuild. You'll want to put in the time and effort to get the castings clean-clean-clean after disassembly. I had a machine shop near me last time I rebuilt a set that used brake lathe grindings in their blasting cabinet. Terrific idea, it was ideal for cleaning metal parts without changing the surface finish. Glass beads would work, too, if your local machine shop isn't hep to the brake lathe grindings they could be using for free instead of buying beads. If you can spare the calipers for awhile, it is probably well worth sending them to White Post or a similar contractor to be sleeved with brass or stainless steel. Doing so will make your rebuild last a lot longer.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I am thinking the old fashioned single piston caliper types. I didn't know that anyplace actually would resleeve the bores, but depending on the condition, it would make sense to consider them. Can you get them resleeved/repistoned to a smaller or larger bore, while I am doing this?

Thanks,

Greg

That's interesting about the brake lathe grindings.

It's fairly easy to rebuild the single piston ones. More pistons (KH) just take more time. Shoot some air in the brake line hole to push the piston/s out of the bore. Also, put a piece of wood where the pads go, so the piston doesn't fly out and damage itself. Sometimes you can push it out with fluid while it's hooked up to the master cylinder.

Like Dan says, clean clean clean. Get some of that brake cleaner to spray it all out. Wear some eye protection. Pistons should be fine as long as there is no corrosion on them. Some corrosion can be fixed with Scotch brite.

The caliper bore can be cleaned up with light grit emery cloth, not too gnarly, Put a cross hatch pattern in it and you're golden. Hones are fine, just don't go crazy grinding away. It HAS to be cross hatched, or it will leak. Throw in some nice new seals, wipe some new brake fluid in there, and push the piston back in, slow and straight.

Most of your work will be in prepping/cleaning. Dan's suggestion about getting them sleeved is a good one, I've never done that but it would probably be worth the durability.

I would consider rebuilding a caliper IF: 1) the bleeder screw comes out & the threads are OK 2) hose/ banjo bolt threads & sealing area are ok 3) you have the tools & the skills to do the job 4) once you have the piston out , there is NO corrosion or pitting in the (bottom) groove where the piston seal goes - the outer dust boot is not as critical

If the outside of the piston is not perfectly smooth (any pitting) then it is junk - the piston seal will leak.

As everyone said: CLEAN clean clean, use brake fluid only to lube (maybe some silicone grease on the piston bore outside of the piston seal.)

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

Ahhh, why bother? Unless they are the rare K&H calibers, it is more likely cheaper to buy remanufactured ones.