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Pitman, Idler and Firm Feel Tie Rods
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Author:  ValiantBoyWonder [ Fri Apr 08, 2011 6:11 pm ]
Post subject:  Pitman, Idler and Firm Feel Tie Rods
i have a pitman arm, idler arm, and tie-rods coming from FirmFeel in the mail and was wondering if any of you guys have tips on replacing them?
i bought a 3 jaw puller from sears today and am going to buy a grease gun as well. are there any other tools i should pickup to make the change go a little smoother?

is there anything i can do now to expedite the process?

any idea on the socket size for the idler arm? i know it's bigger than 1", maybe 1 1/8"?

any advice is much appreciated.
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Fri Apr 08, 2011 9:50 pm ]
Post subject:  Yep...
Pitman Arm comes off easier with a tight 2 jaw pitman arm puller (most local members have used mine...it has paid for itself ($40 from K-D).

The tierods will require- loosening the tiebolt bolts both ends, loosening the lower control arm pivot nuts, unloading the lower control arm bolts, pulling the torsion bar clips, then possibly taking the lower ball joint loose of the lower control arm along with the shocks, prying the lower control arms back with a crowbar (or running the pivot nuts out to the end and smacking with BFH)....

Assemble in reverse after tie rods and bushing are installed... if you have a sway bar, unload that first...

Good Luck,

-D.idiot
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Sat Apr 09, 2011 4:56 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Yep...
Quote:
Pitman Arm comes off easier with a tight 2 jaw pitman arm puller (most local members have used mine...it has paid for itself ($40 from K-D).
yes
Quote:
The tierods will require- loosening the tiebolt bolts both ends, loosening the lower control arm pivot nuts, unloading the lower control arm bolts, pulling the torsion bar clips, then possibly taking the lower ball joint loose of the lower control arm along with the shocks, prying the lower control arms back with a crowbar (or running the pivot nuts out to the end and smacking with BFH)....

Assemble in reverse after tie rods and bushing are installed... if you have a sway bar, unload that first...
No
Tie rods are between the lower ball joint/steering arm, and the steering /drag/center link at the pitman arm on one side and the idler arm on the other side. All you need to change them is a "tie rod puller", or a "pickel fork". No need to loosen/disconnect anything on the suspension. Remember to get an alignment (at least a toe setting) when done.

Good Luck,

PS: The large nut is on the pitmant arm, not the idler arm.
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Sat Apr 09, 2011 8:14 am ]
Post subject:  Lol
Quote:
No
Tie rods are between the lower ball joint/steering arm, and the steering /drag/center link at the pitman arm on one side and the idler arm on the other side. All you need to change them is a "tie rod puller", or a "pickel fork". No need to loosen/disconnect anything on the suspension. Remember to get an alignment (at least a toe setting) when done.
Boy you can tell I was awake...I was thinking strut rods... :oops:
Thanks Charlie.

Thinking back on this subject, a good thing to check is the fit of the pitman arm stud, idler arm stud and tie rod studs in the center link
I have a couple of centerlinks where the studs have wallowed out
the holes and they are no longer any good to be used.

-D.Idiot
Author:  ValiantBoyWonder [ Thu Apr 14, 2011 10:55 pm ]
Post subject: 
they forgot to send me the zerk (grease) fittings for my tie rods :roll:

off to the parts store.
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