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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 2:30 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2004 8:43 pm
Posts: 1153
Car Model: 1967 Dodge Dart GT
my ssbc kit for my dart came with a proportioning valve, got about the whole conversion done after sitting for almost a year, dang i miss driving it! but cant get the line to the rear undone from the brass block (thats where it says to put the valve, between that line and the block) i sprayed a couple times with pb blaster, i tried 3/8ths wrench, stripped it, tried knocking a 9mm on with a hammer and same, tried needle nose vise grips and larger regular ones, but they just roll off of it. might try again tomorrow after the pb has sat some more. however, failing at that...thinking about just cutting the line and using a compression fitting to install the valve, either down underneath after the dist block like it says, or maybe inbetween the dist block and the master cylinder? input on ways to get that loose (will replace the fitting after getting it off if i take it off) if it has to be after that block, or if i can out it up higher where it is easier to get at?


Last edited by Andy's GT on Fri Apr 15, 2011 10:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 5:05 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5613
Location: Downeast Maine
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Tips from salt encrusted New England:

I have found stubborn brake fittings can be easily broken free by snipping brake line close to fitting, and removed with a deep socket & ratchet or bar.

You have beat up your fitting, perhaps you can file the flats down enough to fit a metric size socket.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 8:04 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2004 8:43 pm
Posts: 1153
Car Model: 1967 Dodge Dart GT
good call, i may try that, seems a little better than a compression fitting maybe? i used one on the right brake line, the old one was stuck where it went to the rubber line. i have been spoiled as my dart is originally from arizona, so its not had much salt etc...also my daily driver volvo is from florida and everything came loose easy on it when i did some brake stuff. thanks for the input! i need to shorten or bend the stock line back anyway, so if i can get the old one off, can thread the short line that came with the proportioning valve into that block and put a new fitting on there and flare it.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 8:41 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5613
Location: Downeast Maine
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Quote:
good call, i may try that, seems a little better than a compression fitting maybe?

Andrew, never use compression fittings in a brake system. That method of connection is not designed for high pressures found in automotive braking systems.

You could run back to a fresh double flair with a 12 inch or whatever is easiest length to work with, but not recommended. One should run a new line all the way back to the next factory junction point.

In Maine, the state inspection stations won’t allow mid brake line splices. This is a recent change due to a few brake failures soon after line repairs resulting in deaths. My guess is they suspect the whole run is compromised by corrosion, and by making a mid way splice, one is just setting up the next weakest link.

Take the time to do the job correctly once, brakes are not something to be 0.5 rear-ended.

Bill

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 8:48 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2004 8:43 pm
Posts: 1153
Car Model: 1967 Dodge Dart GT
thats what i was afraid of :oops: indiana doesnt really have inspections of any sort where im at, but since im putting this kit in place to make it better and safer, may as well do it all right. new line from front to right wheel and hopefully just shortening the line to rear and putting on a new non stripped fitting on that line. i cant afford to renew plates at this moment anyway, may still be able to finish up this week and get it roadworthy again soon.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 9:03 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2004 8:43 pm
Posts: 1153
Car Model: 1967 Dodge Dart GT
bill, you nailed it on the socket method, nothing to it! i bought a roll of 25' line and ran it from the metering block to the right caliper, didnt turn out too bad, but it wasnt cooperating, had my buddy (not very car literate, may try to get someone else next time) pump it and hold it and got some fluid through, but the pistons arent moving. didnt do that much yet, and not sure he was doing it right on top. the instructions recommend gravity bleeding to start, but didnt do a ton. so everything is in place like it should be i think. not sure why it isnt working, but might be able to finish tomorrow after work or saturday am, going to get up really early and be at the bmv first thing saturday and get it current.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 10:21 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2004 8:43 pm
Posts: 1153
Car Model: 1967 Dodge Dart GT
no work on it today finished up a schwinn 10 speed for a buddy, was nice to complete a project! was planning on getting up early for the bmv to renew plates, but instead renewed online! so about to crash, maybe dry the gravity method some more tomorrow/see if i can get another friend to help. so close! i have a client who loves cars and stuff and i told him i would probably bring it out to work on monday, so thats my goal!


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