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 Post subject: Couple of 904 Q's
PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:39 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 12:50 am
Posts: 243
Location: Central Valley, California
Car Model:
Recently drained the TQ/tranny, cleaned screen and new pan gasket.

Went through the start up per the FSM...Fill/shift into each gear ending in neutral.

Have driven it twice since for a few miles.

First time out noticed 1 or 2 hard downshifts coming to a stop, but not every time.

Second time out, acted like it had shifted into neutral when I came to a stop at the end of my alley. Then, for a block or two, had that slipping clutch feeling.

No issues before I changed the fluid.

Any ideas what might be up? Thanks.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:47 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:19 pm
Posts: 310
Location: New Hampshire
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I think that a hard down shift while slowing down is a high idle speed and the other sounds like it still low on fluid. Did you check fluid level after your trip? Hot?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:57 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 12:50 am
Posts: 243
Location: Central Valley, California
Car Model:
I had 6 qts in at the time. I have since topped it off with a pint but haven't driven it since.

Thanks for the response...much appreciated

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 10:27 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2007 1:17 pm
Posts: 776
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Car Model:
i would have started the car, run it through the gears then check the fluid in neutral, did you say you drained the torque converter as well ?? if you did i am pretty sure its gonna take more than 6qts to fill,

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 9:24 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:00 pm
Posts: 346
Location: Tustin, CA
Car Model: 1965 Barracuda 'S' auto
17 pints from drained convertor. 65 FSM.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2011 11:49 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2007 1:17 pm
Posts: 776
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
Car Model:
thats 8.5 quarts love this site http://www.worldwidemetric.com/measurements.html

-Mike

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 7:43 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 12:50 am
Posts: 243
Location: Central Valley, California
Car Model:
My 61 FSM has dry fill at 14 pints.
It's all good now except for the leak coming out of the kcikdown lever hole

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 8:26 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:00 pm
Posts: 346
Location: Tustin, CA
Car Model: 1965 Barracuda 'S' auto
That seal is 2 bucks from a transmission shop.
1.Remove linkage and levers from top of trans
2. Drain pan and remove (easier than R&R it from the top, KD makes special tool for this)
3. remove valve body and catch more ATF
4. Get socket or drift and push old seal out from bottom
4a. Inspect seal socket for scoring, use RTV if scored or a special seal is available that extends seal out of scored socket.
5. place new seal into position,
6. put bolt with large washer through seal from top
7. Use a slide hammer on bolt to gently tap, pull seal into position OR use nut and a socket to pull seal in (jackscrew method)
8. reassemble.
Should take car of that leak


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 9:12 am 
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Guru
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
Car Model:
On 60-65 "cable shift" 904s, the kickdown lever seal is a "soft seal" w/ no metal frame. (the 66 and up selector seal is metal jacketed seal and the proceedure above out-lines how to change those)

The earlier seal can be serviced from above by removing the KD Lever / washer and "hooking" the old seal with a sharpe pick, to pull it out. (they sometimes just break-up... being "rock hard" after years of heat)

Once removed, the new seal can be pushed-in and the washer / KD Lever, reinstalled.

It is helpful to drop the rear trans cross member and lower the engine / trans assembly in order to get a little more working room.
It is also nice to drain the trans so you don't have ATF running down your arms as you do the work.
DD

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 22, 2011 4:49 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:00 pm
Posts: 346
Location: Tustin, CA
Car Model: 1965 Barracuda 'S' auto
Brain fart, didnt realize you were working on an old "double pumper cable shifter"


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 5:19 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8979
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
Car Model:
61V200, did you use the correct trans filter? It should have two large holes for the fluid. The filters for the 66 and newer trans only have one large hole.

OOPS, sorry, just realizedyour '61 does not have the filter, just a screen in the pan. The filter is in the cooler line.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 8:02 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jul 22, 2006 12:50 am
Posts: 243
Location: Central Valley, California
Car Model:
Yes....just a screen in the pan. Didn't find much in the way of shavings so that's a good thing.

I was under the hood yesterday and could see the area above the pan gasket had a purdy red glow to it, so looks like that kickdown is leaking.


It will have to wait another month before I can get some time off from work.

How bout the shift cable entry? Do those like to leak?

My cooler lines are good as I just replaced them with hydraulic line. They were dry when I made that change.

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Last edited by 61 V200 on Sat Apr 23, 2011 10:04 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 9:43 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:00 pm
Posts: 346
Location: Tustin, CA
Car Model: 1965 Barracuda 'S' auto
Shift cable has an O-ring as pictured, but I remember mine was a leaker when I got it there too. Not as likely as the soft kickdown though.


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