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| Build for eventual SPFI and turbo https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=44821 |
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| Author: | 6s\ant6 [ Tue May 03, 2011 8:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | Build for eventual SPFI and turbo |
Hello all slantheads, Motor's about to come out of the 71 dart, which is a stock 225. I plan on cleaning the entire motor out, hot tanking, replacing all bearings, port match, new valves, springs, the whole 9. I want to get this motor to a point where it is as close to as ready for SPFI and turboing at the best cost/labor point, but intend on daily driving it for a while before I go spfi and turbo. Should I use certain type pistons, deck the block/shave the head, arrange for a more aggressive cam profile? I saw the sticky about different setups and that gave me a lot of info, but I was more looking for advice as to what I need to tell the machine shop to do (and not do). I'm not sure what intake/carb combo I even want to use, as I dont know which would be best for this approach. Any help would be appreciated, ill keep looking too. Thanks! |
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| Author: | 6s\ant6 [ Tue May 03, 2011 8:55 am ] |
| Post subject: | found it |
Found some great turbo info on another sticky about cams, carbs and gn turbos. Any other ideas are fair game! |
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| Author: | runvs_826 [ Thu May 05, 2011 10:00 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Don't shave the head! If your a good hot rodder than I would cc the head and shave enough to clean up the surface and get a compression ration of about 8:1. The pistons don't have to be anything special if your going to keep boost low. If you have the money forge would be a good safety net in case your mixture ever gets off. I would keep the boost target to 8psi and stick with cast pistons. The money would be well spent on balancing and ARP bolts. A normal RV style cam is good enough. That way it will be drivable untill you build your EFI/Turbo set-up. High lift to lower duration ratio. This is a smart move to button up the engine, install it, and break it in. Than you can save and build the expensive parts. I would suggest getting a super six manifold for right now. That way you can drive it with a nice two barrel and save some money over a four barrel. Than when you are ready you can hog out the manifold, and build an adapter plate for whatever Throttle Body you want to use. |
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| Author: | 6s\ant6 [ Fri May 06, 2011 6:01 am ] |
| Post subject: | Build to turbo |
This is exactly the information I needed. It is as if you read my mind. Thank you! What is your turbo 225's build if you dont mind me asking. |
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| Author: | runvs_826 [ Sun May 08, 2011 9:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
My turbo 225 will actually be a 170. If your going off the title under my name that is actually false. The 225 I have currently in the car is a fuel injected (Megasquirt) 225 that has an Erson cam and standard head work. The 170 will hopefully be an over the top build. However, the main things I would take away from my experience would be light head work such as gasket matching. A strong balanced bottom end. Light boost with a possible water injection kit just in case. Finally, a commitment to tuning with the proper timing knowledge, O2 sensor, and an understanding of whatever EFI system you choose. I wouldn't waste money on big valves, a monster camshaft, billet con rods, or a custom turbo. The money should go into a nice turbo with a good intercooler setup. A strong engine that is well built. Hopefully this doesn't sound over bearing, just sharing some highlights of what I have planned. |
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| Author: | 1974duster kev [ Mon May 09, 2011 10:26 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
My head just had a clean up passed ended up being 55cc, if your doing the head yourself spend some time bowl blending smoothing out bumps imperfections in the runners, I put maybe 60hours into my head only because i plan on pushing 18-20psi through it. I personally like the bigger valves their cheap and help, i have them in both my motors. My compression is 8.5:1 Kev |
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