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| 65 Dart Update - elec. questions https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=44858 |
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| Author: | dookdart [ Thu May 05, 2011 5:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | 65 Dart Update - elec. questions |
Project Slant 6 - 65 Dart update: 5/5: The lighting relay rewire is done, just waiting for the GE NightHawks to come in. A local parts store is getting them for $18 each. The stereo install is done (4 speakers)with an annoying sub box in the trunk. Talk radio will sound much better now! The carpet and seatbelts are back in. Seats still removed. Changed the VR. Output is nice and steady compared to the original that was running a little high. Next up for tomorrow: 1) Tie a ground wire from the alternator housing, VR baseplate and Neg. battery terminal. Q: what are the benefits? 2) 10g stranded wire from B+ of the alternator to the + battery terminal. I'm just trying to reduce the load on the ammeter. Q1: any guesses as to what the meter will read? Q2: should I add a voltmeter? Next week? headliner install - yuk. |
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| Author: | Chuck [ Thu May 05, 2011 7:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Many people have added extra grounds, and it won't hurt. It will help if the grounds are not good now. I have never had to run extra grounds on my slants, but perhaps I am lucky. I am also an electrical engineer, so I tend to keep the wiring in very good shape. As far as the wire from the alternator to the battery, the I would expect the ammeter to read nothing. BTW, there is no "load" on the ammeter. The current running through it and the firewall connector are where the problems usually occur, and that is due too too much current (BIG stereo, high-power lights, etc.) or poor connections, both of which create too much heat. Dan, please correct me if I am wrong. Been at the computer all day and getting a little punchy. |
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| Author: | dookdart [ Thu May 05, 2011 7:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks Chuck. Load was a poor choice of words. I meant that I would like to limit the current through the ammeter. The stereo amp and lighting is drawing power directly off the battery terminal. With this additional usage, I'm assuming that a higher charging current is called for that would pass through the bulkhead AND the ammeter. Is this a correct assumption? It is my hope that with a 10ga wire direct (B+ to post), I can minimize (or eliminate) the high charging current going through the bulkhead conn. and the ammeter. Some people suggest after adding the wire, to tie the two ammeter connections together and totally elimate the ammeter. This sounds rather crude. Plus, I can't see why it would be necessary if the current is already being routed away. The ammeter seems to function perfectly at this time, no issues. But I'm just a bit leary of the addtional current I'm using with a 45 yr. old ammeter. All the wiring connections I have found have been clean, tight and uncorroded. The car is from Nevada. The changes to stock have been: mopar electronic ignition and the stereo/CD player (underdash) added by the PO. I installed the rear amp and sub box and the lighting relays upgrade for nighthawk sealed beams. There are no other wire changes, cuts, damage or mods from stock. |
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| Author: | Chuck [ Thu May 05, 2011 9:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
You are right about the higher charging current. Shorting the leads at the ammeter still has the current passing through the bulkhead connector. Going from the alt. to the battery will eliminate that problem. I believe that one important thing to do when retaining the ammeter in the circuit is to remove all the wires from it, then tighten the REAR nuts (the ones that hold the ammeter in the cluster) before re-installing the wires. That helps keep the poor connections & heat down. I personally feel that a voltmeter tells you more anyway. You can see when the battery is charging, and you can see when it is low. |
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| Author: | dookdart [ Fri May 06, 2011 7:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I added the jumper this morning. With it running, there is no movement of the ammeter. Checking battery voltage across the terminals, 14.4v I only have the wire at this point, it is not fused. Its 10g. stranded. What is the expected maximum charging current that I would see coming off the B+ alt connection to the battery? I'd like to fuse (or fuseable link) the wire. Right now its direct. Also; just added an coolant overflow bottle. gotta get a voltmeter today too. |
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| Author: | Chuck [ Fri May 06, 2011 10:00 am ] |
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The 14.4 volts is what the books usually say, so that is good. The amount of current that you draw depends on the max output of the alternator & how low the battery is. I think the standard alt. was good for about 35 amps, but I really don't recall. The wire from the alt. is usually not fused, even in newer cars, although I'm sure there is an exception somewhere. I haven't seen one yet. If you do fuse it, I would guess that it would have to be about 50 amps. I'm not sure where you would get a fuse holder for that. BTW, the rating for 10ga wire in open air is 30 amps. |
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| Author: | dookdart [ Fri May 06, 2011 10:07 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Its the orig. alternator, so I do think 35A is correct. The stock Alt wire going through the bulkhead connector looks like 10g. I don't think the factory would have used a wire not up the max output of the alternator. All I'm saying is the wire I installed seems to be the same as the stock alt . feed wire. I'll have to look into that further. Maybe I should double up on the 10ga? |
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| Author: | dookdart [ Fri May 06, 2011 11:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
just for sakes' sake, I doubled up running 2 passes of 10ga. wire. |
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| Author: | Chuck [ Fri May 06, 2011 1:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
You will not usually be using the full output of the alt. for very long. When charging the battery, output will be high for probably only seconds as the battery charges up. Even after just starting the engine, charging current drops rather rapidly. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Fri May 06, 2011 1:44 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 65 Dart Update - elec. questions |
Quote: The lighting relay rewire is done, just waiting for the GE NightHawks to come in. A local parts store is getting them for $18 each.
Good! What store? Make sure to aim the lamps carefully and correctly.Quote: Tie a ground wire from the alternator housing, VR baseplate and Neg. battery terminal. Q: what are the benefits?
It puts the voltage regulator, alternator, and battery all at the same ground plane. It helps make sure the voltage regulator accurately sees the line voltage, so regulation is as accurate and smooth as possible.Quote: 10g stranded wire from B+ of the alternator to the + battery terminal. I'm just trying to reduce the load on the ammeter. Q1: any guesses as to what the meter will read?
Meter will show discharge but not charge.Quote: should I add a voltmeter?
See here.All these "See here" links are a result of my clicking the "Search" button at the top of the page. You can do the same. |
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| Author: | dookdart [ Mon May 16, 2011 6:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
starting new update in proper forum. |
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