Ok guys, I just bought a super six setup off of e-bay. I got the manifold, Carter carb, linkage and brackets, and a newer Holley 2300 carb. My 6 is in a 67 dart and it's #'s matching. What do I need to do to set this system up and running? I know it involves bolting everything together and so on but do I need to mess with the timing at all? This whole setup seems to be pretty easy to handle but do you have any suggestions for a beginner like myself? Can you tell me how to sucessfully tune the Carter? I also got the "stove pipe." What exactly is this for or what role does it play with the performance of my engine?
Thanks!!

"Plug it in, turn it on"!

Adjust the idle air screws just like a 1 bbl: Turn in until the engine stumbles, then back out until smooth, then back out another 1/2 turn.

_________________
Chuck Rivers, Webmaster

One thing you may want to watch for. Or something that can turn a simple day job into a week of crap.

Check the studs that hold the manifolds to the head.

I had a crack in my 63 exhaust manifold and was putting on a new/used one. The head studs were rusted and weak. This lead to 3 of them snapping. I'm not sure if I could have done anything to save them, but I sure hadn't planned on replacing or having them drilled out.

I tried to drill them out, but then I was a bit afraid of damaging the head. So I took it to a shop. I found a place that would drill them out as part of the cost for a rebuild. Hey for a few dollars more, why not? Which turned out to be a good thing because the head had warped, so I got it milled. (I wish I remembered how much he milled it. I remember the number 7 and he said it he had to take a lot off.)

Anyway, I replaced the studs, put on new washers that I got from the Chrysler dealer and used brass nuts.

All in all, once it started to go together, It worked out pretty well.

Oh, before all of this, I had the broken intake/exhaust studs drilled out.

The whole thing tuned out to be one of those if you give a mouse a cookie type of events. If you crack a slant six manifold you will need to remove it. If you remove the manifold, you will brake a stud. If you break a stud………….

Good luck. It is not that difficult to install, just be careful.

John

Start by spraying WD-40 or other "liquid wrench" type penitrating oil onto each stud / nut. Do that for a few days before you start the swap.
Just be real carefull taking off the nuts, if one gets tight, screw it back down and oil it again. work them "in & out" to get them off.

Here is an article with info on adjustment and operation, once it is all installed and running, let us know if there is any "funny stuff" and we can dial it in from there.
DD

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/choke- ... adjust.htm

Old trick I learned from my friend Carlos who helped me do my Super Six Swap.

The outer stud nuts on the exhaust manifold were frozen on. After WD-40 and several attempts, they would not budge. Carlos took out his acetylene torch and had me heat up JUST the bolts till they were red hot. He then quickly put a socked wrench to them and "eased" them off.

He did say, we were VERY lucky since this does not always work.

Good luck.

_________________
Duster Girl

When penetrating oil doesn't do it, I have had good luck using Duster Girl's suggestion of using the acetylene torch to remove rusty nuts, it almost always work. I was wondering, for a lower cost substitute if a plumbers butane torch would put out enough heat to work as well. Another thing I've done with broken studs is to weld a nut to the stub (if there is one). It gives something to wrench on and the heat from welding helps free the threads. This works about half the time and a lot easier than drilling and tapping. If a broken stud is not on a blind hole it's easier to blow it out with the torch after drilling a small hole and clean it up with a tap. As for as drilling and tapping, I'd pull the head. This solution is harder than it sounds to do correctly.

Cecil