Hey guys I noticed a nice sized exhaust leak between the manifolds with this truck I just bought. Started to take the manifolds apart and I noticed that both of the two outside bolts connecting the intake to the exhaust were already broken. I tried everything, heating, cooling, wax, soaking in PB Blaster. I even welded a nut on the bottom to try and back the stud out and it broke on me. I'm going to have to drill the studs out and start over. I've never had to do anything like this so what have you guys done to repair the threads in the exhaust manifold? Do you use helicoils? If so, what size are they? I want to get a head start on this since I have to have this truck smogged by the 20th. Thanks.

Inspect any used SL6 exhaust manifold carefully for warpage before starting into extensive reworking... see if the port openings stay in close alignment, once the intake to exhaust manifold "center area" makes full contact. (mock-up the two manifolds using clamps)

I see many used SL6 exhaust manifolds that are warped to the point where the end exhaust ports are 1/4 to 3/8 inch higher then the intake port opening next to it... when the two manifolds are making full contact at/ on the center sealing area.
In my mind, manifolds warpped like this are only good for "cores"... to make rear "with heat" Dutra Dual sections.
DD

I'm wondering what that means since my daughter is driving her 65 Dart with 225 Slant from the east coast to west coast in August to Sacramento area (Davis Univ) & will be in the area for at least 2 to 3 years.

When she registers the Dart locally will there be issues with Calif & emmisions regulations?

The slant has only 60k miles & we have done rings, carb, HEI, timing chain, etc. recently so it's not a tailpipe noticeable smoker however the valve cover to air cleaner line does dirty up the air filter quickly. We put a late model head with peanut size plugs on it & a late model air cleaner with thermostatic air control inlet.

How do early A body cars meet Calif smog standards for their years & will our upgrades improve it chances at meeting the requirements?

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/

My original quote about it needing to be smogged by the 20th means that the DMV gave me a temporary registration and it expired on the 20th. Since I wasn't able to meet that deadline, I now have to go back in and get a 1 day temporary registration and then get it smogged that day.

As far as your daughters car, I'm 99% sure it wont have to be smogged. The only reason I'm not 100% sure is because of this. My friend picked up a Dart in Idaho that hasn't been registered in years. When he called the DMV to ask about registration and fees and all that...they told him the car hasn't been registered in over 5 years so it is off the books. They said it would need an inspection and a smog as well as about $250 in fees to get a pink slip and registration. What confused me was the smog because this is a 71 Dart and 1976 is the last year cars have to be smogged in CA. I don't know if this was just a misinformed DMV employee or not so I told him to call back and ask someone else because I don't understand why a smog exempt car should have to be smogged just because its from out of state or off the books. If I were you, I'd just call the DMV out here and ask. That way you know how much registration fees and all that are gonna be. As you know...California will nickel and dime you to death on registering cars.

I don't think you'll have any problems though. My money is on an employee who just wasn't paying attention to the Darts year. Either way if something comes up, you've got plenty of help this way if its needed.

As I recall, those 2 outer manifold to manifold bolts are 5/16" coarse thread. Usually if they don't move I try a bit of heat from a propane or mapp gas torch to the casting "ears" to persuade them to come loose.

If the bolts do break I just drill staight thru them & don't bother with helicoils. I double nut the new bolts (under the throttle bracket) when going back together & it's worked fine for me.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl