Alright, got an '85 Dodge D100 Custom. Holley 1945 1bbl. "Mechanic" says carb is ok. Have replaced fuel line, adjusted idle/mix, ignition coil, installed electric choke, distributor and plugs/wires, thermostat. I know there is an exhaust leak. But all vacuum lines seem to be good now that bad ones have been replaced. Tried the WD40 trick and carb cleaner trick to no avail. Acts like there is a vaccum leak somewhere by what most others I ask are saying.

BUT

Still having issues starting also. Will start if I put some gas straight into top of carb and hold pedal down. Then sometimes it will idle and 90% of the time will not. Always dies when I put it into gear also. Once in gear, if I "get on it" in the least or try to go up a big hill it just started to want to backfire through the carb.

Can exhaust leak cause all of this?? Don't believe so but I'm no expert by any means. Learning as I go.

Little help please. Thanks,
Roger

Was it running fine and then this happened suddenly? It's rare that a poorly adjusted or working carb will cause backfire. I wouldn't completely rule out carb issues, but it's probably timing related. Exhaust leaks would not cause any of this.

If this happened suddenly, could be a broken dizzy gear or timing chain jumped a tooth. If this is a new vehicle to you and your trying to get it running, that opens up all kinds of possibilities.

I would

1. Check timing with a good timing light (if you can get it running, or while cranking)

2. Carefully mark distributor position, then pull it out and inspect the gear

3. Check timing mark on dampener pulley is correct using a piston stop

Let us know what you find.

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'63 Valiant 200 2 door hardtop, 225 stock rebuild with super six set up, carter bbd, hei mod, 3spd manual on the column

It is new to me... So could be a lot of things. Got this thing to be a driver not just a project. Only mode of transportation right now.

I think the major problem is the carb just seeing if it possibly could be something else. Since I've had it, its been a little tough to start but by putting on the electric choke and hitting the gas a few times before starting it would eventually start up. Always had a rough idle but as gotten better the more I have messed with it. Runs nice and quiet when I can get it to keep an idle.

Had a shop look at it while I was outta town for work and figured would be best since I'd be gone for 2weeks and these cats where supposed to know whats up. Said that carb appeared to be fine even though I asked them to rebuild it. Said he didn't want to unbolt the exhaust/intake manifold because the bolts were rusted up and didn't want to damage it futher. But apparently they are a bunch of yahoos who didn't really fix anything and I'm out $150 for some easy stuff I asked them to do. (non carb related mind you) Mechanics! I digress.

Would it just be best to get a new carb and see if that fixes all ills?

I guess I missed in the original post that you replaced the distributor? How was it running before that and what prompted you to replace it? Did you replace it or someone else?

Replacing a carb as a means of diagnosis is usually an expensive craps shoot. Don't get one of those parts store "remanufactured" units whatever you do. You're better off attempting a rebuild yourself

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'63 Valiant 200 2 door hardtop, 225 stock rebuild with super six set up, carter bbd, hei mod, 3spd manual on the column

Don't overlook unintended EGR as a source of trouble such as you describe -- either a stuck-open EGR valve or a crack in the intake manifold floor.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

As far as starting....go out there in the morning and pop the top of the air cleaner off. Then take your hand and pull the accelerator linkage down a couple times. The choke should close when you do this. If it doesn't, either the choke isn't adjusted correctly or there could be an obstruction where the linkages are hitting something such as wires, vacuum lines or the air cleaner housing itself.

ESP: choke is working correctly. takes putting some fuel straight into the top of the carb to start though. Just started having to do this.

Dave: Someone else did replace the distributor. I did have to regap the plugs correctly so there definately could be a chance the distributor was put on wrong too.
Got a good quote on a new carb from BFIC carbsonly.com so was thinking of getting a new one any way.

Dan: is there a way to check the EGR valve to see if it is open or not?

I had a 1985 Ram100, my carb was bad too.
I found a new one, in wrapper, replacement carb, in a friends scrap yard. I installed it and no more issues..I think the old carb was just in need of a rebuild..

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

alright EGR valve is opperational although one of the lines to the solenoid was wrong. Pretty sure its the carb at this point. Throttle pump doesn't seem to be putting enough gas in to start it up unless i pump it like 10 or more times. Still won't idle and dies when I put it in gear. All sources seem to be to rebuild or replace the carb and then see what happens.

any suggestions for which rebuild kit to use and where to get it?

really sounds like the makings for a jumped timing chain.to Me...just had that happen to my 318. a lot of the same symptoms .you are describing.. does your mark jump around when you are timing it? or is it nuts on the mark?
LB

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64W200 sweptline 318 4 speed
63W200 Ambulance slant 6 pto winch
there is no such thing as a stupid ?
just stupid people asking them.

not sure how to set the timing if it won't hold an idle?