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coil grounding etc
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=45400		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  easy803 [ Thu Jun 23, 2011 5:38 am ]
Post subject:  coil grounding etc
I think a lot of my issues have been with my coil its ground was poor and then broke when I wiggled it! I also noticed my coil was covered in sludgey gunk(I'm guessing from oil in the coil?) and it gets really hot under idle in my garage.

1. I've seen a lot of coils moved from the heat saturated and vibrating side of the block to the top of the pass side fender, good call? If so can I ground to the strut?

2.I hooked a set of alligator clip wire from the neg to the original spot on the ground and the car would not crank and that wire got extremely hot. So I unhooked em and it started right up? Of course that was not ment to solve my problem only see if my faulty ground was the cause of my misfire and stalling. I don't understand why this happend :(

3.who makes a well made coil? It doesn't have to super or blast or mega zap, I just want it made in america (canada is fine too!) :wink: if possible.. echlin ic 12 from napa or a bluestreak?

Thanks for all the help and support, I'm a bit thick sometimes but I really love this motor and I really appreciate all the info!
Author:  THOR [ Thu Jun 23, 2011 7:26 am ]
Post subject: 
You do not ground the coil. The coil recieves power from the blue wire to the (+) terminal, and the black or black/yellow wire goes to the EI unit, or computer depending on which you have. The coil does not ground permanently.

The coil works by accumulating a "charge" while the EI unit, computer, or breaker points have the circuit "closed" meaning that current can travel through the coil and "charge" it up. Then, the EI unit, computer, or breaker points will "open" the circuit by breaking the coil's connection to ground, thus creating a collapse of the field built up in the coil. This collapse transfers from the "primary" side of the coil (which is the side that "charges" the coil, and has the power and ground connections) to the "secondary" side of the coil which is high voltage out from the center tower on the coil to the center tower on the distributor cap and then to the plugs.

When you grounded the coil, you "closed" the circuit, thereby not allowing the ignition system to "open" the circuit and produce the "spark" that your engine needs to run. Your ignition system controls the ground side of the coil, and you bypassed the ignition system when you grounded it.

If it got very hot, you should replace it.

Using the stock bracket bolted to the fenderwell works very well.

~RDE~
Author:  easy803 [ Thu Jun 23, 2011 8:11 am ]
Post subject: 
.Ok! Thank you thor! The EI unit is on the driver side fender of my 73 dart sorry if I'm missing something but I have 3 wires coming from my coil and one was attached to the block by way of funny little disc majiggy.. anybody know what that is? I assumed black wire to the block was the ground :oops: again thank you thor for your quick reply to my misinformed query!
Author:  ESP47 [ Thu Jun 23, 2011 8:50 am ]
Post subject: 
Is it a little cylinder thing that looks like a points condensor? If so then I believe its a radio noise suppresor.
Author:  easy803 [ Thu Jun 23, 2011 9:18 am ]
Post subject: 
yeah!! :D

what will i ever do with static on the AM!! :cry:

the sounds of Canción Ranchera lilting through my radio crystal clear!!

Thanks for helpin me out guys! Any input on coil choice?
Author:  ESP47 [ Thu Jun 23, 2011 9:50 am ]
Post subject: 
Yep, you better have it on there so you don't miss a word of FDR's fireside chats. :lol:
Author:  easy803 [ Thu Jun 23, 2011 10:21 am ]
Post subject: 
haha my cars more shining city on a hill
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Thu Jun 23, 2011 11:09 am ]
Post subject:  Any input on coil choice?
easy803,

I have used several types and brands over the years. I really like the Pertronix products and have enjoyed working with their engineers. Currently I am using one of their new HV 3 ohm coils so I do not have to run the MOPAR ballast resistor. The new coil cools well mounted on the fender verses the round Pertronix mounted in the stock location behind the alternator and provides an incredible spark. The plugs stay very clean and the ECU temps are cool.

Click on the red link below my name to view pictures.
Author:  easy803 [ Fri Jun 24, 2011 7:36 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks ted! I have serious engine bay envy! Ill look into that coil set up, what wires are those I plan to replace the plugs and recurve soon.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Fri Jun 24, 2011 10:14 am ]
Post subject:  Spark Plug wires
easy803,

They are 8mm wires I bought from Summit racing several years ago. They are the universal 8 cylinder set so you can cut them to the right length. They are not real expensive about $35.00 but, very well built. I love the thick silicone coating and silicone boots. The core is wrapped nice and tight.
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