I have a 63 Valiant with a 225 slant six. The last couple of week’s I have been experiencing some grief with the electrical system. I could drive for 20 to 30 minutes and it would start losing power and eventually stop. After investigating found there to be little to none and intermentant spark. Replaced the coil repaired and cleaned some connections (firewall). Started up ran fine only to find same thing all over again. Swapped voltage regulators, same thing today. When I get it started I have to keep the RPM’s up to keep it running or it dies. . Not sure what to do next.

How's your charging system? Voltages?

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Do you have points, mopar electronic ignition or HEI?
It could be some poor connections or wires in the ignition primary circuit.

Maybe this will give you some ideas.
http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... metre+coil

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63 Signet / 10 inch front drums / weber 2bbl / HEI / 2.76 rear end

Charging system seems to be fine, 13.8V when its running. I had an HEI on the car until recentlly. I took it off and went back to points because I suspected the module was causing the problem.

I think there is a logical step-by-step method to check the primary ignition circuit somewhere in here.
You could have bad contacts in the ignition switch or the switch connector, or elsewhere in the low-voltage circuit.

Are you using a ballast resistor with your HEI, and are you using the same one on the points system?
Because bad contacts at the ballast resistor can give you a weak spark, and maybe it gets worse when the resistor gets hot.

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63 Signet / 10 inch front drums / weber 2bbl / HEI / 2.76 rear end

Currently using a ballast rsistor with my points distributor, however, when I was using the HEI the ballast was bypassed.

It is possible the new coil is no good.

Or bad ground to the HEI and points.

With the cap off and the points open, how many ohms resistance is there between the point and the terminal on the outside of the distributor?

It should be 0 or 0.something.

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63 Signet / 10 inch front drums / weber 2bbl / HEI / 2.76 rear end

did you use heat sink paste under the module?

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Did you have a relay supplying power to the HEI?
The HEI draws more power and the original wiring might not be up to it.

Here are some ideas about that.
http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... oubleshoot

I would put the HEI back in, with paste, a good ground and a relay.
There are more things to go wrong with the points distributor and ballast resistor.

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63 Signet / 10 inch front drums / weber 2bbl / HEI / 2.76 rear end

I did use heat sink paste on the HEI module and I will probably switch back to the HEI system, but the problem exsisted with both points and with the HEI in use. There is something else going on but still haven't put my finger on it. Installed a new set of wires today because I was getting a weak spark through my coil wire. The car immeadiately started and was running good but it wouldn't stay running unless RPM"s were around 1500 to 2000 just as the original problem did. It seems as though something is bleeding the power off. I read something earlier about an ignition switch causing similar issues. Can an ignition switch cause a power drain as such?

Yes.
There can be a significant voltage drop across the ignition switch.
The voltage drop is what makes them get warm or hot.

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63 Signet / 10 inch front drums / weber 2bbl / HEI / 2.76 rear end