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what year slant should i buy from junkyard?
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Author:  redfivexw [ Thu Jul 28, 2011 4:40 am ]
Post subject:  what year slant should i buy from junkyard?
I had posted a few days ago about my 73 scamp with a stuck engine, turns out the engine is junk. So, i was shopping my local junkyards online and there is one that is not far from me that has a ton of slants that are all marked as running good. My question is, which to buy. There is one from a 68 with lower mileage, and there are a lot from the mid 70's, also a couple with the super six setup (i was considering buying one of those if they have everything, but thought maybe the older engine might be better). They even have them into the 80's.
Author:  Reed [ Thu Jul 28, 2011 5:08 am ]
Post subject: 
Personally, I would go with a 80s era motor with a Super Six setup. I just like hydraulic lifters (no more valve adjustments!). However, a late 70s motor with the complete Super Six package would be my close second choice.
Author:  Dart270 [ Thu Jul 28, 2011 5:16 am ]
Post subject: 
It will not matter much, as long as you get the larger (68-up) crank hub/register to match your flywheel or converter. Pick the one in best shape or lowest miles.

The 80s engines have some advantages like lighter internals and a bit better head flow.

Lou
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu Jul 28, 2011 6:18 am ]
Post subject:  Re: what year slant should i buy from junkyard?
Quote:
There is one from a 68 with lower mileage
I'd give that one serious consideration. You can always add the 2bbl setup separately if you want. The '68 engine will drop right into your '73, has the most rugged crankshaft and connecting rods/bearings, has the pre-'75 head that gives you a wider range of spark plug options. Reed's point about never having to do a valve adjustment again if you get an '81 or newer engine is true, correct, and valid, but:

1. Reed owns vans. Valve adjustments are a huge pain in the butt to do in a van, but not in a passenger car, and

2. The hydraulic cam is pathetic in its specifications.

Remember, by 1981 the slant-6 was down to 85-95 gasping, wheezy, impotent horsepower because of cheap-and-nasty changes made to squeak past tightening emission regulations.

Second preference would be one of the Super Six-equipped engines (if in good condition).
Author:  redfivexw [ Thu Jul 28, 2011 6:36 am ]
Post subject: 
thanks for the advice. Well, the 69 engine will cost $400 . They have 2 super six engines, one is a 78 and one is 77, both are $300. all the other engines are from 77-80, they sold the newer engines (i just called them). I have not seen any of these engines, and they do not allow you in the yard but they do have notes about the condition of running when they came in. I asked if the kickdown rods would be included with the super six setup and they could not guarantee it (they did not even know what i was talking about, they could not understand why i would want to buy one of these engines for my 73 scamp as it would not fit, i told them i knew what i what i needed). Now, would you take a chance on the super six setup and rig up a kickdown or go with the regular 1bbl setup?
all the motors are on the shelf, none are still in the car so there is no chance of finding any extra parts. There are also other boneyards around here with engines like an 85 dodge 150 truck, also 300 bucks, any disadvantage to that? will the truck engine bolt right in or is anything different?
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu Jul 28, 2011 8:07 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
thanks for the advice. Well, the 69 engine will cost $400 . They have 2 super six engines, one is a 78 and one is 77, both are $300.
How many miles on each of these, and what compression and oil pressure readings? I am assuming your yard takes those readings before pulling the engines; that's what we used to do at the yard I worked for in Denver for awhile.
Quote:
I asked if the kickdown rods would be included with the super six setup
Answer is NO. Stuff like that is never included. The goal is to get the engine out of the car as quickly as possible. Rods, cables, and hoses tend to be cut.
Quote:
Now, would you take a chance on the super six setup and rig up a kickdown
No, if I were installing a Super Six setup I'd find and install the correct linkage.
Quote:
or go with the regular 1bbl setup?
If the $400 1bbl engine is in markedly better condition with lower miles, yes.
Quote:
85 dodge 150 truck, also 300 bucks, any disadvantage to that?
Probably very high miles and very whipped engine. It'll be one of the 90hp wheezers, too. You'd have to swap the '73 oil pan and pickup.
Author:  redfivexw [ Thu Jul 28, 2011 8:32 am ]
Post subject: 
i dont think any of the boneyards around here will have records like you mentioned, i have called 3 near me, and all i could get was "runs good", or "good around yard", etc. I just got a photo of the 69 engine, it is in a really rusted out dart convertible, they said it says 85k on the odometer and that it ran 200 days ago when it came in (the dart is in a different junkyard then all the others, and the newish truck engine is in a different yard). the yard that has all the 70's motors and super six is the one i was really considering. They are checking to see if perhaps they left the kickdown rod attached, they are supposed to call me back later today. I was told by 2 of the yards that mileage was "irrellevant" at this point due to age, yeah right.
Author:  Reed [ Thu Jul 28, 2011 9:15 am ]
Post subject: 
Valve adjustments in vans aren't too much harder to do than in a car, I am just lazy. :wink:

As far as cam profiles go, if you are using this as an every day grocery getter, then I don't think there will be much noticeable difference between the hydraulic lifter motor and the solid lifter motor. However, if you are wanting the best performance, then the 70s era motors have the "best" factory street cam.

But, as others have indicated, compression and oil pressure are the primary concerns when buying a used engine. Cams can be swapped, as can induction systems. I would make your choice based on the overall condition of the motor, not on what intake manifold is hanging off the side of the block or what type of lifter is used.
Author:  redfivexw [ Wed Aug 03, 2011 11:37 am ]
Post subject: 
Ok,
i finally got someone at the junkyard who knows about the engines there, they did take compression tests when removed, the engine they are recommending had a rating of 125, although they did have some that had higher ratings. I really do not know what a slant should read on the compression scale, is 125 an indicator of a good engine? They had one engine that had a rating of 160, but he said it had really high mileage on it.
Author:  raPoM [ Wed Aug 03, 2011 11:45 am ]
Post subject: 
125 is healthy. Though,the 160 sounds like it might have had a rebuild.
Author:  redfivexw [ Wed Aug 03, 2011 12:02 pm ]
Post subject: 
they have the following engines available:
1978 dodge diplomat, 2bbl, 125 compression (many similar rating and cars like this)
1977 dodge van, 1 bbl, 175 compression
1977 dodge aspen, 2bbl, 125 compression

Maybe the one out of the van would be good, i would have to just change the oil pan, correct? Would it be assumed that a rating over 125 would be a really good motor.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Aug 03, 2011 4:31 pm ]
Post subject: 
175 is dubiously high. 125 is more realistic. If all of these readings were taken on the same day by the same guy using the same gauge and the same method, the difference between 125 and 175 might mean something. But compression gauges are not known for accuracy, and the ones that have been kicking around scrapyards for who knows how many years are even less likely to give readings that are in any way real. What they are good for is showing cylinder-to-cylinder consistency and getting a rough idea of whether the engine's worth messing with or is in need of internal repair. Choke and throttle open vs. closed, battery state of charge, starter motor state of health will all easily make a large difference in indicated compression.

I'd probably be tempted, given those choices, to pick out one of the 2bbl engines. No oil pressure readings, eh?
Author:  olafla [ Wed Aug 03, 2011 4:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
If you have an auto transmission in your car, and the 2-bbl engines comes with an auto if you need a gearbox as well, you should be aware of the fact that the '77 Aspen came with the ordinary 904 gearbox, the '78 Dippy came with a 904 with lock-up, which may save you some fuel (if that is an issue).

You should also avoid an engine with a lean-burn setup, converting a faulty lean-burn may end up costing more than the engine!

Olaf.
Author:  redfivexw [ Wed Aug 03, 2011 5:56 pm ]
Post subject: 
I asked the guy about the van engine with the high compression, he went and looked and said that the engine only 40K miles on it. He did not even know they still had it. The engine from the diplomat has 98k miles on it and rated 125 compression. I am thinking about going with the van engine, the high compression and low mileage seem like a good choice. I would like to get the super six setup, but they did not save the air cleaner or the linkage, so that is more cash and searching whereas the other motor should be swap the oil pan and running. i am hoping to reuse the transmission currently in the car.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Aug 03, 2011 6:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yup, high compression and low mileage = win.
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