Slant *        6        Forum
Home Home Home
The Place to Go for Slant Six Info!
Click here to help support the Slant Six Forum!
It is currently Thu Feb 13, 2025 3:07 pm

All times are UTC-08:00




Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 34 posts ]  Go to page 1 2 3 Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Turbo head count
PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2013 9:57 pm 
Offline
3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Feb 27, 2005 9:27 pm
Posts: 99
Car Model:
Hey all I was wondering. I have this at FABO as well but how many of you have done your turbo setups in a cheap DIY way and had great results and it lasted a while?


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2013 4:58 am 
Offline
SL6 Racer & Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8789
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
Car Model:
Mine was a cheap DIY project back in 1979, but it didn't have great results right away. Back then there was not much info on DIY turbos, and I made a few mistakes. All in all I was satisfied with the result. I still have the car and turbo engine, and it will be on the road, again, with just a few minor upgrades to make tuning easier. I used a Corvair turbo, Draw thru carb, with a "J" pipe off a stock intake/exhaust manifold. Here are a couple of pics in the original configuration. http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/schmid.html

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2013 5:43 am 
Offline
3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sun Feb 27, 2005 9:27 pm
Posts: 99
Car Model:
How reliable was it charlie? After you got the bugs worked out anyway.


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 12:00 am 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:21 pm
Posts: 527
Car Model:
Our car is a bald-faced copy (mechanically) of two other turbocharged slant sixes (A-bodies) that are, in my estimation, runaway successes; Tom Wolfe's '71 Dart and Ryan Peterson's '66 Valiant. Both have 225 motors with forged cranks, ported heads, one four-barrel intake manifolds and home-made headers.

Ryan's car weighs about 2,800 pounds; Tom's car is about 400-pounds heavier, at 3,200 pounds. Our '64 Valiant 4-door sedan is in at 2,680.

All three cars have 8,75" rear ends with various gearing. Both Ryan and Tom (who obviously know what they are doing) run ratios in the high twos (2.73, for instance,) while our car has a 3.55, (because when we built it, we had NO IDEA what we were doing.) Ryan's car has a 727 T-flite, while
Tom's Dart and our Valiant have 904's.

We built our car in most ways, to, as closely as we could, copy the successful practices of these two guys... because nothing succeeds like success. And, they made it look easy...

We all 3 have single 4-bbl intake manifolds, but, they are all from different sources. Ours is an Australian, (AusssieSpeed) long runner model (BIG mistake,) while Ryan's is (I believe,) a Hyper-Pack model. Tom has, I THINK, a Clifford 4-bbl manifold, while all three mount Holley 4150 double pumpers. I am not aware of the cfm size of their carbs, but ours was built by Aaron Hurley for his engine, before he decided to switch to Alky, and is either 600cfm, or 650... I don't recall. It has a boost-referenced power-valve, and other Hangar-18 modifications.

These two guys (Ryan and Tom) have proven beyond the shadow of a doubt, that they absolutely know what they are doing. On the other hand, We have yet to get our car to the drag strip. But, that day is coming, soon. We just finished O-Ringing (copper wire) the block and are otherwise, almost ready to make out first pass on clocks.

We bought a 750 Holley and tried to get it "tuned" using a F.A.S.T., Wide-Band, hand-held, data-logging, O-2 sensor, by changing jet sizes repeatedly, and sometimes, power-valves. We probably made 20 individual runs in an attempt to get the "right" air-fuel mixture.

Never happened.

Oh, we also have a "Snowperformance Boost Cooler," alky/water injector (running 100% methanol.)

Here's what we learned, for all our efforts: After run-after-run, changing jets (all at 10 pounds of boost) we had poisoned out O-2 sensor to the point that it no longer worked, accurately.

So, I ordered another one; they just screw in and are "only" $91.00 apiece. No problem, right?

The first subsequent road test (with a different carb... one that is probably jetted and modified correctly,) yielded mis-firing cylinders (something we had never encountered, before, and black smoke out the exhaust.

It was running WEIRD.

I decided that, since we had not O-Ringed it, it had probably blown a head-gasket.

It had always had 160-165 pounds compression (5 hits) on all cylinders.

This time, #1 and #2 had 50 pounds. I, stupidly, didn't bother to test any more cylinders since I mistakenly assumed the head gasket was blown between #1 and #2.

Subsequent examination and testing revealed NO blown gaskets of any kind. Anywhere!

Everything else checked out 100%.

This engine HAD no mechanical problems. None...

We checked the valves, guides, lifters, cam, push-rods, rocker arms, timing... NOTHING was wrong.

So, we decided to O-Ring it while it was apart. What a thrash THAT was, but it's done, now, and pretty-much back together.

After talking to a LOT of people, they almost, to-a-man, told us that the super-rich mixture we had been getting out of that last Holley carb we had on there, had successfully washed all the oil off the cylinder walls, making any kind of an effective ring-seal, impossible.

We are about to find out if that is true.

Within the next two or three weeks, we should know th truth on this.

I'll let you know.

One thing we HAVE learned: As much as we have talked to people, studied books, and read notes on here and FABO, apparently, we don't know a DAMNED thing 'cause we can't seem to put together ONE RUN that is representative of what this car SHOULD be capable of.

It's pretty disheartening. The worst part is, we have only ourselves to blame.

We have spent too much time and money to throw in the towel, now, though, quitting is not an option.

Maybe out luck will turn around, now.... we'll see.

Thanks for listening. This is supposed to be fun, right???

Bill, in Conway, Arkansas

_________________
1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 12:02 am 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:21 pm
Posts: 527
Car Model:
Quote:
Our car is a bald-faced copy (mechanically) of two other turbocharged slant sixes (A-bodies) that are, in my estimation, runaway successes; Tom Wolfe's '71 Dart and Ryan Peterson's '66 Valiant. Both have 225 motors with forged cranks, ported heads, one four-barrel intake manifolds and home-made headers.

Ryan's car weighs about 2,800 pounds; Tom's car is about 400-pounds heavier, at 3,200 pounds. Our '64 Valiant 4-door sedan is in at 2,680.

Both

All three cars have 8,75" rear ends with various gearing. Both Ryan and Tom (who obviously know what they are doing) run ratios in the high twos (2.73, for instance,) while our car has a 3.55, (because when we built it, we had NO IDEA what we were doing.) Ryan's car has a 727 T-flite, while
Tom's Dart and our Valiant have 904's.

We built our car in most ways, to, as closely as we could, copy the successful practices of these two guys... because nothing succeeds like success. And, they made it look easy...

We all 3 have single 4-bbl intake manifolds, but, they are all from different sources. Ours is an Australian, (AusssieSpeed) long runner model (BIG mistake,) while Ryan's is (I believe,) a Hyper-Pack model. Tom has, I THINK, a Clifford 4-bbl manifold, while all three mount Holley 4150 double pumpers. I am not aware of the cfm size of their carbs, but ours was built by Aaron Hurley for his engine, before he decided to switch to Alky, and is either 600cfm, or 650... I don't recall. It has a boost-referenced power-valve, and other Hangar-18 modifications.

These two guys (Ryan and Tom) have proven beyond the shadow of a doubt, that they absolutely know what they are doing. On the other hand, We have yet to get our car to the drag strip. But, that day is coming, soon. We just finished O-Ringing (copper wire) the block and are otherwise, almost ready to make out first pass on clocks.

We bought a 750 Holley and tried to get it "tuned" using a F.A.S.T., Wide-Band, hand-held, data-logging, O-2 sensor, by changing jet sizes repeatedly, and sometimes, power-valves. We probably made 20 individual runs in an attempt to get the "right" air-fuel mixture.

Never happened.

Oh, we also have a "Snowperformance Boost Cooler," alky/water injector (running 100% methanol.)

Here's what we learned, for all our efforts: After run-after-run, changing jets (all at 10 pounds of boost) we had poisoned out O-2 sensor to the point that it no longer worked, accurately.

So, I ordered another one; they just screw in and are "only" $91.00 apiece. No problem, right?

The first subsequent road test (with a different carb... one that is probably jetted and modified correctly,) yielded mis-firing cylinders (something we had never encountered, before, and black smoke out the exhaust.

It was running WEIRD.

I decided that, since we had not O-Ringed it, it had probably blown a head-gasket.

It had always had 160-165 pounds compression (5 hits) on all cylinders.

This time, #1 and #2 had 50 pounds. I, stupidly, didn't bother to test any more cylinders since I mistakenly assumed the head gasket was blown between #1 and #2.

Subsequent examination and testing revealed NO blown gaskets of any kind. Anywhere!

Everything else checked out 100%.

This engine HAD no mechanical problems. None...

We checked the valves, guides, lifters, cam, push-rods, rocker arms, timing... NOTHING was wrong.

So, we decided to O-Ring it while it was apart. What a thrash THAT was, but it's done, now, and pretty-much back together.

After talking to a LOT of people, they almost, to-a-man, told us that the super-rich mixture we had been getting out of that last Holley carb we had on there, had successfully washed all the oil off the cylinder walls, making any kind of an effective ring-seal, impossible.

We are about to find out if that is true.

Within the next two or three weeks, we should know th truth on this.

I'll let you know.

One thing we HAVE learned: As much as we have talked to people, studied books, and read notes on here and FABO, apparently, we don't know a DAMNED thing 'cause we can't seem to put together ONE RUN that is representative of what this car SHOULD be capable of.

It's pretty disheartening. The worst part is, we have only ourselves to blame.

We have spent too much time and money to throw in the towel, now, though, quitting is not an option.

Maybe out luck will turn around, now.... we'll see.

Thanks for listening. This is supposed to be fun, right???

Bill, in Conway, Arkansas

_________________
1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 12:14 am 
Offline
Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
Posts: 1336
Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
Quote:


The first subsequent road test (with a different carb... one that is probably jetted and modified correctly,) yielded mis-firing cylinders (something we had never encountered, before, and black smoke out the exhaust.

It was running WEIRD.

I decided that, since we had not O-Ringed it, it had probably blown a head-gasket.

It had always had 160-165 pounds compression (5 hits) on all cylinders.

This time, #1 and #2 had 50 pounds. I, stupidly, didn't bother to test any more cylinders since I mistakenly assumed the head gasket was blown between #1 and #2.

Subsequent examination and testing revealed NO blown gaskets of any kind. Anywhere!

Everything else checked out 100%.

This engine HAD no mechanical problems. None...

We checked the valves, guides, lifters, cam, push-rods, rocker arms, timing... NOTHING was wrong.

So, we decided to O-Ring it while it was apart. What a thrash THAT was, but it's done, now, and pretty-much back together.



Bill, in Conway, Arkansas
Looks like you overlooked the one other thing that could have caused this.....lifted ring land. Have you re-checked your compression since you got it back together.....its still 50 lbs isn't it.

_________________
There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!
Image


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 5:31 am 
Offline
SL6 Racer & Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8789
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
Car Model:
Quote:
How reliable was it charlie? After you got the bugs worked out anyway.
The big problem was tuning. Back then there was no such thing as a "boost timing master" or a A/F meter. The first problem was with the carb. I tried using a BBD on a adapter to the Corvair turbo. The needle and seat assy was too small, and the float bowl would run low at full throttle, and go lean(er?). Engine would lay over, then the fuel level would recover, and the engine would pick back up, then repeat.
Next tried the 2 bbl weber. This carb would work fairly well, was the car was moving, and the rpm was up. Problem was not enough pump shot available to launch the car.
Then wound up changeing the compressor housing from the Corvair style small opening 3 bolt mount, to what most turbos have today, a 3 inch round opening. Made a 90 degree adapter to mount a Holley 2 bbl carb. A couple of minor carb mods, and this worked the best. I hurt a lot of pistons, and head gaskets, early on, due to wrong ign timing and wrong jetting (detonation). I parked the car about 1985, and it was running fairly good the last year I ran it. A few years ago, I bought a new waste gate (old one was shot due to sitting around for years with exhaust acids eating at it), and tried the turbo on my Barracuda, up at Bristol slant six race. The new waste gate was acting up, and motor wouldn't run right, so removed the turbo in the pits and reinstalled the nitrous system.
I am in the process of doing some upgrades to the engine, and working on the original turbo car (65 Valiant). I hope to have it done and out next year ( have been saying that for a few years, now). I now have a boost timing master, and will be getting an AFR gauge, but other then that, It will be the same "old school" setup I originally built, 30 some years ago.

With the turbo info available, today, and the different turbos available in salvage yards, I believe it should be no problem to build a reliable low boost (less then 8lbs) setup, very cheap.

PS: My system is a draw through, and when using the Holley carb, I ws getting a surge at idle, due to fuel puddling in the 90 degree adapter. Cured that problem by water heating the bottom of the adapter. Without the water heat, the adapter would actually have ice forming on it.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 8:22 am 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:21 pm
Posts: 527
Car Model:
Quote:
Quote:


The first subsequent road test (with a different carb... one that is probably jetted and modified correctly,) yielded mis-firing cylinders (something we had never encountered, before, and black smoke out the exhaust.

It was running WEIRD.

I decided that, since we had not O-Ringed it, it had probably blown a head-gasket.

It had always had 160-165 pounds compression (5 hits) on all cylinders.

This time, #1 and #2 had 50 pounds. I, stupidly, didn't bother to test any more cylinders since I mistakenly assumed the head gasket was blown between #1 and #2.

Subsequent examination and testing revealed NO blown gaskets of any kind. Anywhere!

Everything else checked out 100%.

This engine HAD no mechanical problems. None...

We checked the valves, guides, lifters, cam, push-rods, rocker arms, timing... NOTHING was wrong.

So, we decided to O-Ring it while it was apart. What a thrash THAT was, but it's done, now, and pretty-much back together.



Bill, in Conway, Arkansas
Looks like you overlooked the one other thing that could have caused this.....lifted ring land. Have you re-checked your compression since you got it back together.....its still 50 lbs isn't it.
CNC Dude:

No, we have never removed a piston from the reciprocating assembly BECAUSE these are forged, Wiseco pistons (probably pretty tough,) and we had been very careful never to run the engine under boost with mixtures that could create an environment that was one that would contribute to detonation. We always were on the rich side (below 11.5:1, with 18 degrees of spark advance. Considering those factors, the likelihood that we might have damaged a ring-land, WE THOUGHT, was pretty slim.

Now, all bets are off. That may well be exactly what has happened, but we don't know, yet, since the engine has not been put back together far enough to be tested (compression.) We will let you know, in the next few days, what the results of thr next compression test are.

God, I hope you're wrong; we don't NEED another round of head-removal, with a shot of pan and rod removal, on this thing.... We are far too old for that. :(

We have a combined age (the two of us) of 149... Not a lot of energy left for s**t like this...

We'll see.

Bill

_________________
1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 2:50 pm 
Offline
Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
Posts: 1336
Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
All aluminum melts at the same temp, it doesn't know if its cast or forged! There is still a lot to consider when having a piston designed for forced induction. A typical forged off the shelf piston for a N/A app is in many cases not going to be a good forced induction piston. So never assume just because you have forged pistons that your safe. I'd do a compression check before you get to far back together with this, you'll just have to take more stuff back apart. You didn't do anything that resolved your low compression issue, nothing was fixed to correct that.

_________________
There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!
Image


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 4:33 pm 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:21 pm
Posts: 527
Car Model:
CND-Dude,

The pistons in our engine are identical to the pistons in Tom's engine and Ryan's engine. I don't know if that means anything RE: this discussion, but they have not had problems similar to ours. Wiseco built their pistons and we later ordered a set of identical ones, and, since Tom was on the phone with Wiseco several times as his were being built; I can't imagine that they were built with no thought to their going into boosted engine. But, we'll see.

The one thing that will be different when we run this compression check will be that we will ensure that there is a layer of lubricating oil on the cylinder walls this time. That may or may not change things, depending on what's wrong.

I really appreciate your input on this. Thanks a lot for your time!

Bill

_________________
1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 4:44 pm 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:21 pm
Posts: 527
Car Model:
Quote:
CNC-Dude,

The pistons in our engine are identical to the pistons in Tom's engine and Ryan's engine. I don't know if that means anything RE: this discussion, but they have not had problems similar to ours. Wiseco built their pistons and we later ordered a set of identical ones, and, since Tom was on the phone with Wiseco several times as his were being built; I can't imagine that they were built with no thought to their going into boosted engine. But, we'll see.

The one thing that will be different when we run this compression check will be that we will ensure that there is a layer of lubricating oil on the cylinder walls this time. That may or may not change things, depending on what's wrong.

I really appreciate your input on this. Thanks a lot for your time!

Bill

_________________
1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904


Top
   
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 5:58 pm 
Offline
Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
Posts: 1336
Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
Fingers are crossed for you!

_________________
There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!
Image


Top
   
 Post subject: Lou's car
PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 7:47 pm 
Offline
Board Sponsor & Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 16840
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Car Model:
Yep, fingers crossed, Bill!

As to the original question/poll:

I have had significant success with my 68 Dart, but it is not all DIY as I had some stainless pipes made by a friend between Dutra Duals and the turbo. I did all my own EFI and all the rest. I decided long ago that I did not want to tune a carb and have a wet manifold for turbo, and mine has worked well. 320-340 HP @crank so far on 9.5 psi and I have driven it all over the country in the last few yrs. 170k miles on the stock-type shortblock (0.030" over cast pistons in 1989, stock rods/bolts, etc...). About 15k miles on this setup so far and somewhere over 100 drag passes and lots more beating. It digested one $6 head gasket when I got greedy with tuneup in 95 degree heat and on pump gas, and before water/meth injection. I replaced that and it has been rock solid since.

See this thread: http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... boost+land

The best and simplest DIY setups I have seen (carbureted) are Tom Wolfe's early setup with the Grand National turbo and J pipe, and bigslant6fan's barracuda. Simpler than mine and have apparently worked well.

For ANY setup, you are going to need to do some significant tuning and be prepared to be humble and break some parts.

Cheers,

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 11:04 pm 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:21 pm
Posts: 527
Car Model:
I am hoping for the best... the best being that the cylinder walls were so devoid of lubricating oil that there was no viable seal between the ring, ring lands, and cylinder walls when I tried testing compression and only got 50 pounds where 160 is the norm..

I have trouble accepting that possibility, but I am an ignoramus here, so I guess I'll just have to see for myself.

Thanks for yout help and interest.

Stay tuned... we'll see...


BILL

_________________
1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904


Top
   
PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 3:10 pm 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:21 pm
Posts: 527
Car Model:
Quote:
I am hoping for the best... the best being that the cylinder walls were so devoid of lubricating oil that there was no viable seal between the ring, ring lands, and cylinder walls when I tried testing compression and only got 50 pounds where 160 is the norm..

I have trouble accepting that possibility, but I am an ignoramus here, so I guess I'll just have to see for myself.

Thanks for yout help and interest.

Stay tuned... we'll see...



BILL

Monday afternoon...

Hallelujah!!!

140 pounds on #1 and 120# on @2!!!

That's with some 30-wt lubricant sprayed on the cylinder walls!!!!

The other 4 cylinders were similar.

Thanks a ton, to everyone who contributed! NOW, maybe we cn get something done!!!!

I can only surmise that "dry" cylinder-walls were the culprits causing the low compression reading on #'s one and two. Weird...

Bill

_________________
1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904


Top
   
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 34 posts ]  Go to page 1 2 3 Next

All times are UTC-08:00


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited