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| Won't start when warm https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=45806 |
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| Author: | joshuafruge [ Tue Aug 02, 2011 6:38 am ] |
| Post subject: | Won't start when warm |
83 dodge d150 225 with BBD 833od won't start when engine is warm/after running. Has been running well previously for quite a while now. Acted like a bad starter, so I've change the starter (twice). I've changed the starter relay. Checked connections, cleaned all connections, cleaned grounds. When it's warm it'll click or sometimes turn slowly. I pulled a couple spark plugs to see if cylinder was filling up with gas, no smell/no luck. I pulled out a volt meter and tried to check for voltage drop at different points, seems ok... Service manual troubleshooting says it could be oil viscosity too high, so I changed it (10w30) needed it anyways. Says next could be a problem with ring gear (was good about 6 months ago when I had flywheel turned). I would appreciate any suggestion on where to go from here....I'm kinda stuck. Also, did a HEI ignition conversion from lean burn about a year ago (and has been running fine since then). Thanks in advance |
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| Author: | Brussell [ Tue Aug 02, 2011 7:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I'm sure someone better than me will come along and have a good diagnosis for your problem. How old is your battery? Does the car work fine when it's a cold start? Is your problem that when you turn the key the engine doesn't turn over at all? or tries to briefly and dies? Thanks. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue Aug 02, 2011 8:10 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Battery cable(s) are number-1 suspect, followed by battery. |
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| Author: | 64 Convert [ Tue Aug 02, 2011 8:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Ditto what Dan said. When checking your cables, do more than a visual. I've had cables corrode completely through, and the damage could not be seen from the outside, so give them a pull at each end. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue Aug 02, 2011 9:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yup. Have a helper grab hold of both cables and pull/twist them while you hold the key in the "Start" position. Cables can break internally. |
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| Author: | joshuafruge [ Wed Aug 03, 2011 7:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Battery checks out. Tried twisting cables, no luck...but ordered new ones. The pos cable is starting to look ratty, so it's probably the culprit. |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Thu Aug 04, 2011 3:43 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
How well is the engine grounded? Do you have the braided cable ground strap hooked up? Where does the negative go on the battery? The engine block? or to the frame. |
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| Author: | joshuafruge [ Thu Aug 11, 2011 4:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: How well is the engine grounded?
Not sure, don't see a ground strap. Where should it be? Negative cable goes to accessory bracket and attaches to body near radiator.
Do you have the braided cable ground strap hooked up? Where does the negative go on the battery? The engine block? or to the frame. |
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| Author: | Philip's66 [ Thu Aug 11, 2011 5:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I had a similar problem with a bad ground connection on a aluminum intake. Came from the factory like that. Was painted YELLOW. Put new cable on no crank . Moved cable to point on engine block cranked right up. On my/6 I replaced the 40 year old connections from head to firewall ,block to frame. Negative cable to motor block. Internally those grounds can be FUBAR'd . Get some good wire-10 awg or even8 and replace the braided connections .Use ring mounts on each end and connect to rear of head and the bolt or screw on the firewall -remove all rust from mounting areas and paint . |
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| Author: | 4speed [ Fri Aug 12, 2011 8:57 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
When I get a new ground battery cable I always attach the ground cable to one of the starters two mounting bolts-then I run a good sized one to the body from the same bolt. The idea is that the starter uses the most current (heaviest load) so I bring the battery cables as close as I can to the starter |
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| Author: | joshuafruge [ Sun Aug 14, 2011 7:25 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
This is basically what I did to make it work. I replaced battery cables, and added extra engine and starter grounds  thanks for all the help Quote: When I get a new ground battery cable I always attach the ground cable to one of the starters two mounting bolts-then I run a good sized one to the body from the same bolt. The idea is that the starter uses the most current (heaviest load) so I bring the battery cables as close as I can to the starter
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