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Replacing engine mounts
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=45910
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Author:  Robb [ Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:24 pm ]
Post subject:  Replacing engine mounts

Hey everyone I have a 75 dodge dart swinger that's in need of replacing the engine mounts. The driver side seems easy enough but the passenger side looks very tricky. Has anyone have any advice on changing these out with the engine in the car. Any help would be great. Thanks everyone! -R-

Author:  DusterIdiot [ Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:45 pm ]
Post subject:  Yep...

1) Chock the wheels and set the parking brake.
2) Remove cables from battery, and remove battery from car(place in safe location).
3) Remove alternator and bracket, leave fan belt hanging from fan pulley
4) place jack under oil pan and jack up until it is slightly firm under the pan (if your jack has a smaller head or "teeth" put a 2x8 board over the head)
5) with 3/4" wrench and 3/4 ratchet/socket (or if well equipped 3/4" wrench and 3/4" socket and air ratchet), loosen the motor mount bolts
in the k-member cradles (you may need an extension to get more ratchet 'swing room')
6) Pump jack up so it is firm under the oil pan...you can take a rubber mallet and drive the bolts loose so the washers or flanges are no longer under the cradle lips.
7) With 5/8 socket/ratchet remove the two bolts from the driver's side of the block holding the motor mount. Remove motor mount.
8) Jack motor up a bit so the motor mount clears the cradle a bit...
9) Have a buddy push the motor toward the driver's side (or use a pry bar), wedge a 2x4 in between the oil pan rail and the k-member-this will keep the engine from sliding and crushing your hand if it shifts).
10) Using any combination you feel works of 5/8" sockets and wrenches, etc...from over the passenger side fender, or under the wheel well...remove the 2 bolts holding the motor mount to the block on that side.

If you bought new mounts over the counter, install in reverse (do not do the driver's side first...it will make the passenger side an impossible task).
If you bought a set of inserts, you'll need to clean out the old rubber and replace, then reinstall.

Take your time, watch what you are doing in steps so you can remember how to do it in reverse...if in doubt, take a picture then proceed to the next step.

Good luck, when finished you can be glad of your accomplishment, and oddly enough if you have to install an oil pump in the car, the steps will be very similar (except you will jack the car up so you can access the oil pump under the passenger side of the engine bay...), so you are almost trained in two procedures.

:wink:

-D.Idiot

Author:  Danarchy [ Mon Oct 17, 2011 9:59 am ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
4) place jack under oil pan and jack up until it is slightly firm under the pan
the only stupid question, is the one you don't ask.
Do you really jack the engine up from under the oil pan :?:

Author:  Reed [ Mon Oct 17, 2011 10:15 am ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
Do you really jack the engine up from under the oil pan
Yes, absolutely. If it makes you more comfortable, you can put a block of wood between the jack head and the pan, but under the pan is the typical way to jack a motor up.

Author:  Danarchy [ Mon Oct 17, 2011 12:10 pm ]
Post subject: 

I have always used a Cherry Picker(engine hoist), mainly due to the fear of crushing or denting the oil pan. Are Mopar oil pans just that much more stout? (last vehicle had a 230 Tornado, 194 High-Thrift before that, then various SBC's before that. I wouldn't have jacked any of them from the oil pan)

Author:  Reed [ Mon Oct 17, 2011 12:41 pm ]
Post subject: 

The only time I ever use a cherry picker is to pull the engine out completely. I have jacked numerous transmissions and engine up by the oil pan and never had any problems. Yes, Mopar oil pans are strong enough to take it.

Author:  DusterIdiot [ Mon Oct 17, 2011 6:42 pm ]
Post subject:  Yep...

Quote:
I have always used a Cherry Picker(engine hoist), mainly due to the fear of crushing or denting the oil pan. Are Mopar oil pans just that much more stout?
Yes it is fine, unless you are a meathead and keep jacking after the tranny has wedged against the tranny tunnel...Using a wood block is better. In the late cars it's not easy to jack from another position and jacking it up using the harmonic balancer is not an option.

You can use a cherry picker, but with the passenger side spool mount, you would end up laying on the passenger side 'leg' of your cherrypicker to see well enough to get in between the fender/k-Member/engine block to start working on the engine bolts...This procedure is also same for doing an oil pump swap while the engine is in the car (and that gets worse if you use one of the aftermarket pumps, due to the increased thickness of the new pump).

-D.Idiot

Author:  Danarchy [ Mon Oct 17, 2011 7:55 pm ]
Post subject: 

not a meathead. and this is my first slanted engine. do y'all use bailing wire and duct tape alot? :lol:

Author:  DusterIdiot [ Mon Oct 17, 2011 10:03 pm ]
Post subject:  Lol

Quote:
do y'all use bailing wire and duct tape alot?
Only when installing a larger carb on the engine, like Red Green did...

-D.Idiot

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