no charging/no power to batt ternimal/road runner steve said trace back..I traced to the junction block and they were very dirty. road runner steve said use a brass tooth brush and clean everything then dieletric grease..did all this and now NO power @ alllllll
batt good/can screw driver jump turn over engine..
any ideas

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

Check the fuseable link...
DD

it's good

but not sure it connects to the inside

it is very hard to get up side down and slide under the dash.

it was hard 43 years ago too, when I was 17
and 87lbs lighter

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

Start at the batt and use a VOM to find out where the power drops out. Do you have a factory service manual? A Chilton manual will have a diagram that will help. Somewhere the circuit is broken. You will have power up to that point, and not beyond. See if the big red wire on the alternator is getting power. If so you can work towards the center from both ends. My guess is the connection at the bulkhead connector, or at the amp gauge is bad. Just take your time and trace it out.

When this type of failure started to happen on my car, I bi-passed all that stuff and went right from the alternator to the batt. I installed a volt gauge and took the amp gauge out of the system. Those old wires and connectors eventually fail. The other alternative is to replace all the stock wires and connectors one at a time, or maybe buy a replacement harness. It is a big job, but worth the effort in the long run.

Sam

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Ok
it all started when i first got the car on the road
every now and then in a hard brake the motor would die
I would grab the conector @ the bulkhead and move back and forth and it was OK
the altnerator would jump sometimes charge very high then low and non @ idle..discharge with out the lights on
I had a transmission over flow behind the torque converter so i degreesed the engine compartment two times
then the alternator no charge
the batt wire to the alternator was dead. I traced it to the balkhead it it was ok there
Tuesday I will remove the bucket seat and bracket so I can squnch under the dash easyer
its kinda hard to work on eletrics alone
I ususlly test with the headlights on and wiggle/move wires..

we c

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

Yes, get that front seat out or you'll squeeze yourself to death and then who will fix it?

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Gary from Downunder
2 weeks ago I couldn't even spell mukanic - now I are one!

I recently just completed this very same drill, chasing crappy electrical connections. I feel your pain. I now use the Under Dash Work Platform to ease the strain on old gravitationally challenged featherless bipeds.

Sorry no balding tips at this time…

Bill

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

DOC you were correct but with an exception
the fusible link worked but looking @ it, I realized it had a blue replacement end..never having seen a correct one I wondered..
it took me back to the 1960's Star Trek "MENAGERIE" which I had watched as a kid...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mZ9HQbzF ... er&list=UL



obviously an Alien to 1968 Dodge Dart fusible link design
trying to communicate their past efforts to me in our real time Sept. 13, 2011

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

OK
have power to dash
but still not charging
I replace my alternator with a 2 field and wired 1 field to ground
is this correct?


but the batt wire is not HOT with ignt off or on

is this supose to be HOT all the time


any thoughts?

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

It is supposed to be hot all the time. At least get a cheap VOM and a Chilton manual so you will know how things are supposed to work, and what is supposed to be connected. There is a large B+ splice under the dash, and the ammeter which carry current both into and back out of the dash area. Something is wrong there or in the bulkhead connector.

VOM's are cheap. With one you can not only tell if there is continuity, but if there is high resistance in a connector. This is almost certainly the case. I have written this up several times here on the forum,in response to someone having the kinds of problems you are describing. So if you try a search you will likely find at least one description of hunting down voltage loss in the Mopar wiring harnesses. But you need a VOM and a wiring diagram.

Sam

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Sam summed it up, power lug on alternator is hot all the time from battery. Current flows from battery to bulkhead connector to amp gage, and than splits off into secondary circuits at a splice from other side of amp gage than back through bulkhead connector and over to alternator.

Look at here for various wiring diagrams of car, charging circuit etc.

You need a VOM (Volt Ohm Meter) or a slightly more sophisticated device called a multi meter, and a simple 12V test light in your bag of tricks. Meter & test light probably can be had for 20 bucks. With these two tools, life with electricity becomes much easer.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

OK
sorry If I do not communicate under stand-ably
this is my multi meter that ive had since dirt was invented


thats how I found NO power to batt. ternimal
I traced the wire to the bulkhead and found it corroded (green) and broken off.

we now have power to the alt.
I hooked up the original 1 field alt. no charge
then the newer one 2 fields/1 grounded as per slant six dans old post
no charge
but they both could be bad
or the regulator
I will go to advance auto and have both alt's checked Wednesday

thanks for help in getting our slant charging!

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

went 2 advanced auto in beltsville, maryland no tech to test alt's/said tech would b there @ 6 PM
/ bought a rebuilt unit w/lifetime of car warrenty for $59.95 +tax

WE ARE CHARGING NOW WOOT ! ! ! !



OK these &#@% come off every time I remove the field wire.

the original was 1 thread wire only and broke..
any who on a good servicable style 2use/maybe silver soder on like old school

in closing thanks all 4the help and these came in handy cleanning the bulkhead conectors..


I was kinda bumbed out by all this stuff but pee wee was on cable a couple times and well
you got 2laugh
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BodXwAYeTfM
without this site it would be very hard to fix rather simple issues

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

I did remove the ft bucket seat to access the underdash
I use one of these gov surplus ground cover mats which I keep in trunk..soft 4ground work/cheap




and a big flashlight will not fit under dash w/you
I almost knock out a tooth

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com