Looking through the diagnostic trouble shooting pages I don’t see a clear explanation for the cause of flare-up during an up shift.

My 904 shifts perfectly when cold, to slightly warmed up, but once it gets hot, say after a 20 mile or more drive during hot weather, it has a flare up on 2-3 shift under acceleration when operated in automatic mode. I don’t recall is it dose it with a manual up shift.

I have a ITC valve body, torqued to listed specifications at the time of the VB install several years ago, and 9000 miles. I did not measure the adjustment bolt on side of valve body when it was out of the car, as it directions indicated that pressure adjustment was pre set.

My thought on this is; at lower temperatures line pressure may be higher due to thicker fluid, once thinned by heating, it can flow a bit easer making for lower pressure.

Example was yesterday’s trip to a car show some 80 miles down the road. Morning trip started at 60 degrees, interstate driving at 65 mph, 3200 rpm most of the way, with temperature gage sitting in center of gage. No noticeable flare up, but come to think of it no aggressive speed increased from a stop once off interstate highway.

Trip home, same speed, temperature around mid 80’s, temperature gage just to right of “Pâ€￾ but not near high temperature line with heater and blower on. Consistent flare-ups every 2-3 shift once off highway on home end of trip.

Any ideas?

Bill

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Sounds like you might have a blown seal or worn clutches in the front drum,both are common problems. In 3rd gear both the front and rear clutch packs are engaged. The rear clutch is engaged in all forward gears. The front clutch is engaged only in 3rd and reverse. Try backing up a hill and see if it slips then. If it doesn't slip in 1st or 2nd,the rear clutch is probly OK,but it points to problems in the front drum. Sometimes reverse doesn't start slipping until 3rd gear is realy bad because reverse Hyd. pressures are 2 1/2 times what they are in forward gears

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V8?? We don't need no stink'n V8!!

Thanks Bigslant6fan,

This transmission has been used hard where car was a ‘drag queen’ in previous life…

At some point I’ll yard that thing out and go through it, or send it to someone that knows what they are doing…

Second thought, I’ll just figure out how to rebuild it come winter.

Bill

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Due to several hours of no power this afternoon, thanks to a relic of Irene blowing through these parts, I became more board than I was watching TV when it went dark, and broke out the transmission books, one in particular; “Torqueflite A-727 Transmission Handbook, by Carl H. Munroe. Stating at the introduction, and reading in a few chapters I encountered a diagram illustrating all oil passages cast into the case. The passage labeled: #4- “Front Clutch Applyâ€￾, where the valve body attaches, it’s the very hole I plugged off per instructions from a TCI 122400 Valve Body that I installed a few years back.

I got to thinking, perhaps this is one of the reasons that front clutch pack is slow to hook up, possibly causing or adding to my 2-3 shift flair-up.

More reading, and understanding, pointed out that Accumulator Piston controls speed or harshness in which transmission goes into first gear. TCI also instructed to remove the Accumulator spring… I made a note at the time that it had all ready been removed, and left things as is during the install. My understanding is that that spring cushions the application of rear clutch when shift lever is moved to a forward position.

My car, with high stall torque converter likes to slam into gear with idle rpm at 1100 and less. This happens in reverse as well, and if the brake is not fully applied more rubber gets deposited on the garage floor directly below the rear wheels.

I am wondering if lack of accumulator spring is contributing to this hard engagement, or higher than stock rpm & a not so loose torque converter that I thought I got, or both.

Transmission shifts smoothly but firmly during a 1-2 shift which also is normally cushioned by spring on Accumulator piston.

Would removing oil passage plug cut down on 2-3 flair-up by getting pressure to it faster?

Please understand that just because I have been reading about the Torqueflite, in no way do I fully understand how the damn thing works. I’m starting to get the general drift, but I have a long way to go before becoming any where close to proficient. Book learning is no substation for having had one fully apart with someone that knows their stuff looking over one’s shoulder.

Bill

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

The accumulator has the most affect on 2nd gear,with very little affect on 1st and 3rd.The problem with your car slamming in gear at idle would be best fixed with a higher stall torque converter.

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V8?? We don't need no stink'n V8!!

Torque converter is rated 2600 rpm behind a V8, and locks up around 2000- 2200 rpm behind my slant. Unfortunately engine doesn’t make a lot torque until 3000+ rpm, so no burnouts unless pavement is wet.

I agree, having been dealing with this cam, and present torque converter, it should be looser at lower rpm than it is. Once rpm is up around 1700 rpm (cold weather high idle) it is ‘wanting’ to go, but will sit still with enough brake peddle pressure at that speed.

If I change out my present cam this winter to some yet unselected better idling RV cam, my converter will be just right with the 3.55 Suregrip I have now.

As for the transmission, I think I’ll have a go at rebuilding it this winter.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC