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 Post subject: Identifying early Sl6's
PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 4:46 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Guys

Can you ID a 198 from a 225 or a 170 by looks? I know they're red and have 5 freeze plugs but what about a glass sediment bowl style fuel pump?

Got an oldie on the line and I want it for the inerts

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 6:13 pm 
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Turbo EFI

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170 has shorter crossover hose ,front of head......all has size stamped on block/head surface beneath #1 plug


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 9:38 am 
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Wasn't this question already asked/answered in another thread over the last few weeks? Please use the search function before asking.

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 4:46 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Hi Aluminum Six.
If the hose between water pump and cylinder head, visible here between the two upper fan blades in the photo I unsuccessfully tried to steal from allpar.com (visible in the link below) is about 1 inch long, it is a 170, if it is about 3 inches long, it is a 198 or 225.

The link to the photo is: http://www.allpar.com/mopar/images/1961-Aluminum-225-slant-six.jpg

Someone should also be able to tell what year the valve cover started to come with a twist-on oil filler cap and separate pcv valve and air breather, instead of the old push-on breather/filler viewed in the photo.

You can also see the visible outline of the cylinders on an aluminum engine, like the one in the photo.

An engine with a forged crank can be identified by having a taper in the reinforcement rib on the back of the water pump, starting at 1/4" and widening towards the block, a cast crank engine has a rib that is 1/4" thick all the way.

Olaf.

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Last edited by olafla on Sun Sep 11, 2011 5:49 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Sl6 Q's
PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 5:31 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Olaf

Thank you. THAT was helpful, and what this forum is really about.

I needed the info for quick ID when driving from farm to farm, you've been very helpful!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 6:05 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Oslo, Norway
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Remember to take a look at old combine harvesters (Case 700?), water pumps, compressors and other farm equipment, they often used SL6 engines. The may have different auxiliary equipment and oil pans, but a slant is a slant.

Olaf.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 7:12 pm 
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Turbo EFI

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numbers on block below #1 plug/behind alt bracket....flat blade screwdriver/flashlight easy way to clear to read


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 8:12 pm 
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Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
One of the guys had a great photo of the engine ID stamping location linked here. For some reason the search engine is having a terrible time finding it. Ended up with stuff from 2008 and 2005, but nothing more recent.

I've got some photos on my phone. It'll take me a bit to get them loaded into the computer and stored someplace.

If somebody saved that link with the stamping location, put it up here so he can see it.

Back in a bit with some photos.

CJ

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 8:26 pm 
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Location: Oregon
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OK, this is a lousy phone picture, but hopefully it'll help.

Image

The circled area is where the block will be stamped. As long as nobody has decked the engine. If the deck has been cut substantially, the stamping may be gone.

The stamp is the only way you'll be able to tell the difference between a 198 and a 225. Otherwise, all differences are internal to the engine. (Rod length, and crank stroke.)

Here is a photo of a 170 block.

Image

The Deck is 1" Above the casting for the water pump.

Here is a 225 block:

Image

The deck is 2-3/4" above the casting for the water pump. Note how much taller the deck is to allow for stroke?

This is an early (1963) 225 Block:
Image

Note the three freeze plugs. This engine is for my wife's 1963 Dart GT.

Next is a late 225 Block.

Image

Note the placement of the five freeze plugs.

Hope these help. Lousy photos with the cell phone, but they should get you steered in the right direction!

CJ

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 5:36 am 
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CJ: Thanks for the pics and the walkthrough.

Aluminum Six: I see that you did ask the same question last week and some abbreviated answers were given. Please in the future go back to your original thread and ask folks to clarify or expand, otherwise the board gets clogged with many redundant threads. Thank you.

I believe Doc's "blocks" article on the main "articles" page contains the answers to your questions, except for the glass fuel pump bowl. Personally, I have never seen one of those, so it must be quite an early engine (62-down?), which would mean it is a 225 if tall deck and 170 if short deck.

I urge everyone to keep a civil atmosphere on this board so that everyone can enjoy it. We are not interested in drama or pissing contests here. If someone is bothering you with PM's, then let a moderator know. I must have missed something...

Thanks,

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 1:02 pm 
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The '60-'63 engines originally came with bolt-together fuel pumps, but not with glass-bowl fuel filters.

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