Yes, get that front seat out or you'll squeeze yourself to death and then who will fix it?
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| eletrical issues https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46300 |
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| Author: | USAJon [ Mon Sep 12, 2011 4:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | eletrical issues |
no charging/no power to batt ternimal/road runner steve said trace back..I traced to the junction block and they were very dirty. road runner steve said use a brass tooth brush and clean everything then dieletric grease..did all this and now NO power @ alllllll batt good/can screw driver jump turn over engine.. any ideas |
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| Author: | Doc [ Mon Sep 12, 2011 5:29 pm ] |
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Check the fuseable link... DD |
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| Author: | USAJon [ Mon Sep 12, 2011 6:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
it's good but not sure it connects to the inside it is very hard to get up side down and slide under the dash. it was hard 43 years ago too, when I was 17 and 87lbs lighter |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Mon Sep 12, 2011 8:38 pm ] |
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Start at the batt and use a VOM to find out where the power drops out. Do you have a factory service manual? A Chilton manual will have a diagram that will help. Somewhere the circuit is broken. You will have power up to that point, and not beyond. See if the big red wire on the alternator is getting power. If so you can work towards the center from both ends. My guess is the connection at the bulkhead connector, or at the amp gauge is bad. Just take your time and trace it out. When this type of failure started to happen on my car, I bi-passed all that stuff and went right from the alternator to the batt. I installed a volt gauge and took the amp gauge out of the system. Those old wires and connectors eventually fail. The other alternative is to replace all the stock wires and connectors one at a time, or maybe buy a replacement harness. It is a big job, but worth the effort in the long run. Sam |
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| Author: | USAJon [ Mon Sep 12, 2011 9:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Ok it all started when i first got the car on the road every now and then in a hard brake the motor would die I would grab the conector @ the bulkhead and move back and forth and it was OK the altnerator would jump sometimes charge very high then low and non @ idle..discharge with out the lights on I had a transmission over flow behind the torque converter so i degreesed the engine compartment two times then the alternator no charge the batt wire to the alternator was dead. I traced it to the balkhead it it was ok there Tuesday I will remove the bucket seat and bracket so I can squnch under the dash easyer its kinda hard to work on eletrics alone I ususlly test with the headlights on and wiggle/move wires.. we c |
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| Author: | AussiePlymouths [ Tue Sep 13, 2011 4:24 am ] |
| Post subject: | Front seat - OUT! |
Yes, get that front seat out or you'll squeeze yourself to death and then who will fix it?
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| Author: | wjajr [ Tue Sep 13, 2011 5:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I recently just completed this very same drill, chasing crappy electrical connections. I feel your pain. I now use the Under Dash Work Platform to ease the strain on old gravitationally challenged featherless bipeds. Sorry no balding tips at this time… Bill |
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| Author: | USAJon [ Tue Sep 13, 2011 8:41 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Check the fuseable link...
DOC you were correct but with an exceptionDD the fusible link worked but looking @ it, I realized it had a blue replacement end..never having seen a correct one I wondered.. it took me back to the 1960's Star Trek "MENAGERIE" which I had watched as a kid... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mZ9HQbzF ... er&list=UL  obviously an Alien to 1968 Dodge Dart fusible link design trying to communicate their past efforts to me in our real time Sept. 13, 2011 |
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| Author: | USAJon [ Tue Sep 13, 2011 11:06 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
OK have power to dash but still not charging I replace my alternator with a 2 field and wired 1 field to ground is this correct?  but the batt wire is not HOT with ignt off or on is this supose to be HOT all the time  any thoughts? |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Tue Sep 13, 2011 3:59 pm ] |
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It is supposed to be hot all the time. At least get a cheap VOM and a Chilton manual so you will know how things are supposed to work, and what is supposed to be connected. There is a large B+ splice under the dash, and the ammeter which carry current both into and back out of the dash area. Something is wrong there or in the bulkhead connector. VOM's are cheap. With one you can not only tell if there is continuity, but if there is high resistance in a connector. This is almost certainly the case. I have written this up several times here on the forum,in response to someone having the kinds of problems you are describing. So if you try a search you will likely find at least one description of hunting down voltage loss in the Mopar wiring harnesses. But you need a VOM and a wiring diagram. Sam |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Tue Sep 13, 2011 4:27 pm ] |
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Sam summed it up, power lug on alternator is hot all the time from battery. Current flows from battery to bulkhead connector to amp gage, and than splits off into secondary circuits at a splice from other side of amp gage than back through bulkhead connector and over to alternator. Look at here for various wiring diagrams of car, charging circuit etc. You need a VOM (Volt Ohm Meter) or a slightly more sophisticated device called a multi meter, and a simple 12V test light in your bag of tricks. Meter & test light probably can be had for 20 bucks. With these two tools, life with electricity becomes much easer. |
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| Author: | USAJon [ Tue Sep 13, 2011 5:37 pm ] |
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OK sorry If I do not communicate under stand-ably this is my multi meter that ive had since dirt was invented  thats how I found NO power to batt. ternimal I traced the wire to the bulkhead and found it corroded (green) and broken off.  we now have power to the alt. I hooked up the original 1 field alt. no charge then the newer one 2 fields/1 grounded as per slant six dans old post no charge but they both could be bad or the regulator I will go to advance auto and have both alt's checked Wednesday thanks for help in getting our slant charging! |
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| Author: | USAJon [ Wed Sep 14, 2011 8:43 am ] |
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went 2 advanced auto in beltsville, maryland no tech to test alt's/said tech would b there @ 6 PM / bought a rebuilt unit w/lifetime of car warrenty for $59.95 +tax WE ARE CHARGING NOW WOOT ! ! ! !  OK these &#@% come off every time I remove the field wire.  the original was 1 thread wire only and broke.. any who on a good servicable style 2use/maybe silver soder on like old school in closing thanks all 4the help and these came in handy cleanning the bulkhead conectors..  I was kinda bumbed out by all this stuff but pee wee was on cable a couple times and well you got 2laugh http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BodXwAYeTfM without this site it would be very hard to fix rather simple issues |
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| Author: | USAJon [ Wed Sep 14, 2011 8:54 am ] |
| Post subject: | Ps |
I did remove the ft bucket seat to access the underdash I use one of these gov surplus ground cover mats which I keep in trunk..soft 4ground work/cheap   and a big flashlight will not fit under dash w/you I almost knock out a tooth 
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