Slant Six Forum
https://slantsix.org/forum/

(SOLVED) Not A Bent Distributor shaft - more troubles
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46606		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  Franklyn [ Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:42 am ]
Post subject:  (SOLVED) Not A Bent Distributor shaft - more troubles
Hi Guys,
I've searched around a bit on the forums regarding this haven't made any conclusions yet.

a couple of days ago, my 170 slant started coughing and sputtering, and eventually died, leaving me stranded for awhile :(

got her to fire up, and idle horribly.

Poked around a bit, fuel seemed alright, air seemed fine, but spark was erratic...

I pulled cap and discovered a bent rotor top spring? (the metal tang on the top/middle of the rotor)

Finally towed the car home with a rope. and tried an old cap/rotor... same thing happens. bent rotor.

is this a classic result of a bent distributor shaft? (what causes this, if so??)

The car has been firing fine for a couple months of daily driving, and suddenly this occurs.

I hate to "throw parts" at a car, but if it is in fact the distributor, any suggestions on replcement distributors? (gotta get this thing going as it's my ride, to and from work)

Thanks for any advice guys, this site has been a wealth of knowledge already:)
Author:  wjajr [ Mon Oct 10, 2011 5:40 am ]
Post subject: 
I’m not sure how one would bend a distributor shaft without a big hammer & vice. But, it could be worn bushings, and or some problem with center or centering of distributor cap.
Author:  olafla [ Mon Oct 10, 2011 7:31 am ]
Post subject: 
Pics, please?

Olaf.
Author:  Franklyn [ Mon Oct 10, 2011 9:33 am ]
Post subject: 
here's a pic of the bent rotor... (this happened to two different rotors)

any ideas?

Image
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Oct 10, 2011 9:42 am ]
Post subject: 
You can check for a bent shaft by removing the distributor and the rotor and spinning the distributor while you watch the top of the shaft. I've seen this happen when the cap doesn't seat quite correctly and the central contact pushes the rotor spring to one side rather than sitting directly atop it. I've never had it cause poor running as you describe, though; I think you might have bigger problems than an incorrectly-installed distributor cap. Might be a good opportunity to upgrade to electronic ignition…!
Author:  Franklyn [ Mon Oct 10, 2011 10:06 am ]
Post subject: 
sure wish i could upgrade at this point.
lack of funds prohibits this change currently.
but may try to locate a used distributor see if that helps.
seems there must be many around since lots of guys have upgraded.
im going out to inspect the shaft shortly, for any movement/bend.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Oct 10, 2011 10:51 am ]
Post subject: 
I may have a good points-type distributor for you amongst the many(!) boxes of carp arts cluttering up my new apartment. Send me a PM if you need one.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Mon Oct 10, 2011 12:47 pm ]
Post subject:  Bluestreak rotors
A few years ago I had this happen 3 times in a row using a Bluestreak rotor and their cap. The problem was I wasn't pushing the rotor on far enough to let the cap seat correctly. Sometimes the Bluestreak rotors have a super tight fit and you think it is down all the way when it isn't.

I changed to a Napa MO-3000 per SL6 Dan's recommendation and it easily slipped right on and seated all the way down with out any problems. Then the Bluestreak cap seated perfectly.
Since then, I haven't had a bent rotor contact.
Author:  Franklyn [ Mon Oct 10, 2011 6:49 pm ]
Post subject: 
thanks ted, that may just be the source of the bending rotors:)

but things have gotten worse and Im getting frustrated...

trying to get the car going after inspecting the distributor, (which seemed fine)

adjusted point gap, as it was too small. had originally gone for .017 have it set now at .020 as per the big old chiltons manual I have states.

wouldn't start at all, decided to re-time. checked base timing, set to tdc, pointed to no. 1 plug, and ran BETER THAN IT HAS SINCE I'VE OWNED IT! smooth idle and acceleration, lots of low and high torque, I was very pleased. BUT, I Went for a burn. About 10 minutes in, the missing and very rough firing started again.
managed to get the car home, pulled the distributor cap and found my points had opened up to around .035.
re-set to .020, and tightened the screw up nicely.

Now i can't get it to idle smooth again, even checked timing again, and also no bent rotors.

feel like ive gotten to the end of my knowledge here.

sorry for the long winded post.

just baffled a bit,

was running fair for a couple months, then broke down sputtering and missing, then ran better than it ever has, and now cant even get it up the driveway without pushing it.??
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Oct 10, 2011 7:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
You may have a worn point cam, with some lobes more worn than others, such that the gap depends on which lobe you adjust it on. Check it, set it, then spin the distributor so it stops on a different lobe and check the gap again. Much of any perceptible difference means a worn point cam; enormous differences mean a bent shaft or worn bushings. And how are the points themselves holding up? If they're burning quickly, the condenser is suspect.
Author:  Franklyn [ Mon Oct 10, 2011 7:47 pm ]
Post subject: 
thanks for the reply.
Im juggling trying to fix this while also trying to find a way to get to work tomorrow, haha, the joys of our old rides;)

points look alright, but since last posting i checked spark a bit more.
seems that from the coil wire, the one that goes to the center of the ditributor cap, i am getting very strong and even spark... looks great,

but each spark plug wire, has an intermittents spark and a weak arc at best.

would this rule out point cam? or "point" to it?
I may be incorrect and would appreciate being corrected, but if the condenser and points wern't functioning correctly, the spark at the distributor end of the coil wire would also suffer?
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Oct 10, 2011 10:01 pm ]
Post subject: 
The good strong spark at the distributor end of the coil wire means you have problems between there and the spark plugs. Cap, rotor, wires.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Mon Oct 10, 2011 10:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
Sounds like some of the spark plug wires are breaking down.

When was the last time you changed them?

When was the last time you replaced the condenser? I would change it first if it is old. They do break down .......and a cheap fix.
Author:  Franklyn [ Mon Oct 10, 2011 11:28 pm ]
Post subject: 
thanks guys,
I guess with the bent rotor thing initally and the slipped points gap then intermittent spark, I was making things too complicated.
I'll "retard" my frustration, and break it down to the simple stuff again, I'll find a nice set of wires tomorrow and pop 'em in and see what that does.
These wires came with the car and dont look "new" by any means.
Come to think of it, I didn't check to see if any sparks were leaking along the wires, to the fender, etc.
seems that i'd need a set with at least two 90 degree angles, as the distributor is almost "too" close to the inner fender.
the current wires are all straight wires, which don't leave much if any room for movement.
any names to avoid when buying new wires?
cannot remember the last time a bought a new set of wires to be honest.
been running the same set of wires on my 1949 mopar for years and she still runs like a top.
Quote:
When was the last time you replaced the condenser?
changed it 3 weeks ago with a new one alongside points, plugs, cap and rotor.
Author:  wjajr [ Tue Oct 11, 2011 6:07 am ]
Post subject: 
Before purchasing new plug wires:

You may have burned the points when they opened up too far. Use some fine sand paper or point file to clean them up. Lube “Point Camâ€￾ on distributor shaft with a very light coating of Vaseline, dialectic grease or some other like lube so that no excess can be flung off, and re-gap the points.

Rotate rotor to each high point of Point Cam checking their gap at each one; this will determine if there is a shaft / bushing problem. Also check for fastness of screw holding condenser and its electrical connection. Gently clean any build up off of contacts inside of distributor cap, dust the cap out real well as dust can provide a secondary path for electricity to flow to ground, and put it all back together for a test start.
Page 1 of 2 All times are UTC-07:00
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited
https://www.phpbb.com/