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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 9:19 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Jan 09, 2004 1:39 pm
Posts: 184
Location: Tracy, CA
Car Model:
I rebuilt my Carter BBD myself, I trued the edges on the top piece because some monkey overtightened it before I got it, but I had it running pretty good.

Then the temperatures started dropping and I started have starting issues in the morning.

I discovered the fuel pump was leaking, so I replaced and bypassed that with a cheap-o parts store electric pump near the tank.

Still having cold start issues, I added a manual choke. That worked fabulous the next morning, fired right up, I drove on it until the engine warmed up.

This morning it did what it usually does, crank crank crank nothing!

I checked to see if it was getting fuel, sure enough it looked like the accelerator pumps are dry or weak.

I tapped on the carb near the needle and seat to see if that was stuck shut, got a little more fuel out, fired it up for a second, then backfired violently and went out. Squirt squirt squirt.... Crank crank crank... then it fired up and ran. I put the choke on and it idled away.

While sitting at a stop light with the choke on it started sputtering and dropping in RPM, I had to feather it to keep it from choking and dying.

I parked it in front of the babysitters house while I ran up to drop the kid off and it was still sputtering like it was going to die and a little black smoke was coming out of the tailpipe.

WTF!!!!

I drove to work on the freeway turning something like 3800 RPM the whole way (no overdrive and I was running late!) and when I got to work it seemed to running like normal again.

What is everyone's prognosis?

I figured it has something to do with the needle and seat, but I could be totally wrong.

Would too much fuel pressure affect the N & S? The little electric pump I have probably only puts out like 6-7 psi, but I know older carbs like Strombergs only like 3.5 psi.

The black smoke? Too much fuel from the N & S being stuck open maybe?

I just need this thing to be a reliable daily driver and when it does this crap on a cold morning on my way to work it's totally frustrating. I mean, it was totally fine yesterday morning. This morning it's a piece of crap.

Not sure if this is a rant, a cry for help, or just crying. :cry:

Thanks guys....

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 10:05 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5611
Location: Downeast Maine
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Coughing, farting, popping up through carburetor equals lean, or not enough fuel being delivered.

Black smoke, chugging, sputtering equals rich, or too much fuel.

I suspect that there could be crud in fuel line between tank and carburetor, and some of it made its way to the needle valve causing inconsistent fuel levels. Also high fuel delivery pressure will cause needle valve performance problems such as not fully closing because float can’t push back with enough force to stop fuel flow. This makes for a high fuel level and rich condition.

Running at 3800 rpm perhaps facilitated flushing out some crud from carburetor, and or introducing crud into carburetor from higher volume of fuel passing through system.

You need to check for crud in carburetor, reset float level, blow out all lines carburetor to tank, and remove electric fuel pump replacing with stock fuel pump.

One more thought where second day the car started hard and ran lean. Possibly fuel drained back to tank over night for several reasons; pin holes in fuel line, poor seal at needle valve, poor connection in system, or faulty or no drain back valve in new pump. Factory pump has provisions to stop drain back.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 10:39 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 4:33 pm
Posts: 1004
Location: Sacramento, CA
Car Model:
Yours is worse off than mine but I was having a hard time getting mine started in the morning and I was thinking maybe the fuel was flowing back out to the tank or at least away from the carb. My metal fuel line comes off the carb an inch or so and then turns at a 30* angle or so for another inch before I have fuel hose connected from that point down to the fuel pump. I loosened the fuel line at the carb and turned the fuel line so the curve was pointed up a little bit. I figured it might keep the fuel from flowing back down to the fuel pump and on back. Since then it's been starting a lot easier in the mornings. It used to want to start right off the bat and then die out before taking another 3 tries and a lot of gas to get it fired. Now it just takes a couple of pumps and a couple of cranks before it fires.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 12:09 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Jan 09, 2004 1:39 pm
Posts: 184
Location: Tracy, CA
Car Model:
I'm definitely going into the carb. I'll check to see if any junk is in there, but I doubt it. I have a new clear plastic fuel filter about 8 inches from the carb inlet.

I'll double check in the morning to make sure there is fuel in the filter before I try starting it, but even then the electric pump gets fuel up to the carb pretty quick. My last Valiant only had a little Faucet electric pump and I never had a problem with starting in the morning.

Does the needle and seat on these carbs have a reputation for being faulty?

What about the accelerator pump diaphram/membrane/whatever? Do those go bad really quick? I know they're giving us crap gas these days, but I figured it would last longer than a couple months.

I followed the rebuild kit instructions, maybe I just have the accelerator pump settings wrong?

Just trying to rationalize why this thing is so tempermental...

I don't think 2 or 3 pump squirts would flood it even when cold, right?

It has to be a lack of fuel issue when starting.

I don't know what the smoking issue was, it's never ever done that before.

Maybe this carb is just used up junk. Before I got it it had obviously been rebuilt by Mongo the Ham-fisted Mechanic. Maybe I'll hit a junkyard for another BBD off a 318 or something....

Aren't old cars fun? :)

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Scott - waywardgarage.com
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 12:57 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5611
Location: Downeast Maine
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Quote:
Aren't old cars fun?
Yup.

The fun comes from logically ferreting out just what the problem is. It’s the chase, not the capture that is fun, the fix is generally something very simple.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 1:23 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 4:57 am
Posts: 1566
Location: Oslo, Norway
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Quote:
Aren't old cars fun?
Oh, yes! I think I can speak for more memebers than just me this time; we're having a hell of a time reading and recognizing your problems, and viewing the solutions! :D

Keep on posting!

Olaf.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2011 7:54 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 1:50 pm
Posts: 2353
Location: Pertneer Nashville TN
Car Model:
IMO the clear plastic filters are dangerous if all you have to run is an ethanol blend.

The sight glasses on our tankers cloud up and crack. They are plastic. Those see through glass ones are dangerous too.

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto :-( Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2011 10:15 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Jan 09, 2004 1:39 pm
Posts: 184
Location: Tracy, CA
Car Model:
Quote:
IMO the clear plastic filters are dangerous if all you have to run is an ethanol blend.
[super hero voice] Ha ha!! I lead a life of danger! [/super hero voice]

Anywho, I got it tracked down to a sticking needle and seat.

I haven't pulled it apart, but there's fuel in the filter and I can leave the ignition keyed so the electric pump is on, and still no accelerator pump shot.

Gave the fuel line and carb body a couple whacks with a screwdriver handle, the bowl fills up and I get my accelerator pump shot back.

Yay cheap-o rebuild kits.... :roll:

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Scott - waywardgarage.com
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