like the title says battery isn't charging, the alternator is fine, i even replaced it and the new one also "Passed" the check. the battery also charges when i put on my charger, but its not charging when the car is on the move... any suggestions on what it could be?

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74 plymouth duster, 225 single barrel slant six

It could be several things.

If you wish to try to solve it by swapping parts, then the odds are high that your voltage regulator is bad... there are really only 3 "moving parts" in the charging system: Regulator, Alternator, Battery. Plus a bunch of connections. You've changed two of them, that leaves the third (or a bad connection).

Before you change the regulator, check the tightness of connections on it, and be sure it has a good clean ground to the chassis of the vehicle.

If you want or need to troubleshoot the electrical system further, grab a digital voltmeter and let us know what the voltage is at the battery at idle, with the lights on. Also give us the voltage at the battery at 1500 rpm, with the lights on.

- Mac

umm. You called it. The battery is shot dead.

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'73 Scamp (the girlfriend): 225ci super/6 2BBL conversion (Almost done!)
'90 Subaru, wagon (the wife): H4-cyl 2.2L

1977 Mercedes-Benz 300D, 5cyl diesel(For sale!)

Take the battery to a place that can load test it. I think that you will find that the battery is on its last legs.

Also while you are at, it clean the battery terminal connections, and ground strap to block connection.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

yes last night we proved that the battery was 99.99% likely as the problem causer... because we had to stop 4 times on a 10 mile stretch to jump and charge it...


the only problem is this... we replaced the batter about 5 months ago... and then we replaced it again about 2 months ago...


of course the 5 months ago was a champion battery that appeared to be from the late 90's early 2000's...

also we changed the voltage regulator i just forgot to mention that.

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74 plymouth duster, 225 single barrel slant six

Sorry, I missed the fact that you had battery issues, I misread your post and thought you had replaced it.

Ok... now you really need to check those voltages I mentioned before. You may very well have a system that is killing your battery.

- Mac

WHAT?! it came with the car when i bought it back in 2010... but it still doesnt explain why i have had to replace a brand new battery twice within a 5 month period...

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74 plymouth duster, 225 single barrel slant six

I thought you said that five months ago you replaced your battery with a ten+ year old Champion battery. if that is not what you meant then I apologize for misunderstanding. If that IS what you meant, then you shouldn't be surprised the ten+ year old Champion battery failed.

it was a misunderstanding, the battery before i replaced it was the champion, then i replaced it with a valuecrap... autozone battery 3 months later and only 1 week of driving in that three months the battery was deader than a door nail... now we got one where my dad just called and said the 6-8 hour charger is still on after 18 hours...

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74 plymouth duster, 225 single barrel slant six

Whoops. My mistake. Sorry.

not completely i just read it again and what i said was misleading thus i am also to blame for what it. so i must apologize for that.

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74 plymouth duster, 225 single barrel slant six

also i missed ur post Slanted opionion, the car is in constant drain while it is on, the moment i turn it on, it goes from being middle of the gauge to dipping below it, the radio has little effect on it, and when the lights are on it dips to just above the mark for half way between middle and -40, when the rest of the stuff is on, brakes, it dips lower. so even when going 65 down the freeway it still refuses to charge

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74 plymouth duster, 225 single barrel slant six

Have you had an alternator rebuilding shop test your alternator & voltage regulator together? Also take the new battery and have it tested as well.

I had an over charge problem this summer, and had both VR & alt. tested, and they were good. What was happening was the regulator was seeing low voltage, and instructing alternator to put out more voltage than needed. I corrected the voltage probelm, and fixed the over charge.

Your case may be just the opposite, if your components are functioning properly, voltage regulator may be seeing high voltage for whatever reason, or it is out of adjustment to the low side.

Before any voltage checks of various points in charging system are made, take the time to remake and clean all connections to battery, clean and remake all grounding connections, and run a ground loop with # 16 wire from battery to case of alternator, to spark control case if equipped with electronic ignition, and to base of voltage regulator.

Also run a grounding conductor from engine head to fire wall if one is not in place.

Once you have same potential to ground in ignition system, things may work better providing the three components: Battery, Voltage Regulator, and Alternator are working properly.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Definitely get it charged. Take it to schucks/o'reilly or similar auto store. They charge it in two hours and for free. They'll also test it to see if it's even good. Also I agree completely with wjajr...check and clean EVERYTHING all the connectors.

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'73 Scamp (the girlfriend): 225ci super/6 2BBL conversion (Almost done!)
'90 Subaru, wagon (the wife): H4-cyl 2.2L

1977 Mercedes-Benz 300D, 5cyl diesel(For sale!)