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Accelerator cable difference between 1bbl and 2bbl carb?
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46737
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Author:  63valconvert [ Fri Oct 21, 2011 8:17 am ]
Post subject:  Accelerator cable difference between 1bbl and 2bbl carb?

As per subject. I'm doing the Super Six conversion for my 63, and I just removed the pedal assembly and accelerator cable from a 68 Valiant in a parts yard.

Problem is, I don't know what engine was in the car. Someone had pulled it (the car was pretty stripped... fortunately not a lot of people need a gas pedal).

So I don't know whether I have a single barrel Slant Six cable, or a V8 cable. How do I tell the difference?

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Oct 21, 2011 11:49 am ]
Post subject: 

How long is the cable you have?

Author:  63valconvert [ Fri Oct 21, 2011 12:26 pm ]
Post subject:  Cable length

From end to end it appears to be 24".

Thanks Dan. I figured you'd be the man on this :)

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Oct 21, 2011 12:32 pm ]
Post subject: 

That's probably a 1bbl cable. Get an ATP #Y-156. Looks as if RockAuto.com still has six on the shelf for under $16 apiece.

Author:  63valconvert [ Fri Oct 21, 2011 12:38 pm ]
Post subject:  One more thing?

Cool. So this one won't be sufficient for a 2bbl conversion?

Author:  roadrunnerh [ Thu Aug 01, 2013 3:14 am ]
Post subject: 

Hey guys, a helpful FABO member directed me to this thread. Sadly, the
ATP #Y-156 is no longer available from Rock Auto. Does anyone else have a part number or what did you use for the conversion. The article on the conversion here just states to use a V8 cable. I looked up a 318 throttle cable and came up with one that was only 19" in length which would be too short.

Author:  jhdeval [ Thu Aug 01, 2013 4:45 am ]
Post subject: 

What I did is go to a local bike shop and "bought" a length of cable from them. Then on the accelerator cable I had I cut one of the clips off and pulled it out. Slide my new cable in and used a wire connector to crimp it on. I then soldered the wire connector for extra security. Works like a champ for me.

Author:  roadrunnerh [ Thu Aug 01, 2013 6:00 am ]
Post subject: 

Well, Thanks to Charrlie I purchased the ATP #Y-156, but it says it's 19.50" long. :(

If 24" is too short, ATP #Y-156 is waaay short. Anyone use this cable?

Author:  roadrunnerh [ Thu Aug 01, 2013 11:17 am ]
Post subject: 

Anybody :?:

Author:  jhdeval [ Thu Aug 01, 2013 11:35 am ]
Post subject: 

I gave you an answer if you want an already made up one I recommend you go to the ATP website and browse their catalog. I did do that and what I found was the pedal side was not the same connector but maybe you will have better luck. Also autozone can order almost ALL of the ATP cables.

Author:  roadrunnerh [ Thu Aug 01, 2013 12:37 pm ]
Post subject: 

Well I read through ATP's catalog and it seems like I will have the correct throttle cable. The Y-156 cable that I purchased is listed for the '75 Valiant with a 318 2Bbl. It is 19.50" long as opposed to the 225 1Bbl cable with is 24.25" long.

Author:  roadrunnerh [ Thu Aug 01, 2013 6:05 pm ]
Post subject: 

I was wondering if this site is dead, or have I not learned the special handshake? I know I'm not the only one to do this swap, yet I get very few responses.....

Author:  Brian [ Fri Aug 02, 2013 5:58 am ]
Post subject: 

The 318 2 bbl cable works fine. My 73 dart still has the 1 bbl cable with a super six setup and it also works fine. I never had an issue.

Author:  roadrunnerh [ Fri Aug 02, 2013 7:17 am ]
Post subject: 

Thanks Brian! Yeah since checking into the swap, I've heard from others who used the 1Bbl cable. I'm not sure why people say you need the shorter cable.

Author:  DusterIdiot [ Fri Aug 02, 2013 7:32 am ]
Post subject:  Better fitment...

Quote:
I'm not sure why people say you need the shorter cable.
Having installed one of these into a '76, the shorter cable is stock and allows the cable to make a smoother straight line from firewall to the cable clamp on the manifold just like the F-body application.

I've done it the other way by keeping the 1 barrel cable and the excess has to be bunched toward the firewall causing a hump or kink in the cable which can cause binding of the cable if not routed smoothly. I have even tried to loop the cable and zip tie it but that was neither convenient nor worthwhile as the engine tended to yank on the cable causing issues.

Luckily both cars had a clutch so when the cable bound up I could depress the pedal and slow the car down.

-D.Idiot

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