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Electronic Choke Kit - dimensions seem off?
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46738		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  60 Plymouth [ Fri Oct 21, 2011 9:35 am ]
Post subject:  Electronic Choke Kit - dimensions seem off?
Hi all,

I'm fitting a carbs only choke kit (1231) and seem to have some issues. Fitting to a later manifold and with a 1963 Carters BBS, the gasket is about 1/4" thick.

1. The bolt holes are spaced differently (by about 1/8") making bolting down difficult. Easy enough to fix with a file/drill.

2. No matter which of these bolt holes I use for reference, the electric choke 'bottoms out' before the choke plate is vertical. The bottoming out occurs where the operating rod hits the end of the 'arc' in the choke spring housing assembly.

The choke plate reaches around 10 degrees off vertical when it bottoms out.

I can re-drill the baseplate in the choke to allow full movement open/closed - I was just wondering what might be causing it. Is the choke mount different (in terms of its spacing, position etc, I know the pockets are different) on different exhaust manifolds?

Do different 1bbl intake manifolds have the carb in different positions/heights/distances from the engine?

Thanks for your help guys, much appreciated.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Oct 21, 2011 11:46 am ]
Post subject: 
No difference in carb mounting location or choke pocket spacing, but choke lever geometry is not consistent in the early ('60-'63) carbs. Does your choke lever have one hole or two in it? If two, try switching to the hole furthest away from the choke thermostat. If one, either rework the baseplate as you have in mind or extend the arc cutout.
Author:  60 Plymouth [ Sat Oct 22, 2011 3:28 am ]
Post subject: 
Just the single hole in the choke on my carb. Looks like a little fettling is in order.

Now isn't it typical that the car, carb, choke and most of my tools are in one part of the country and my files, drill and bits are in another. Working on a car during a house move is probably not the greatest idea.
Author:  Jljde [ Sat Oct 22, 2011 4:29 am ]
Post subject: 
Fwiw, I had the same issue with the holes. Annoying, but not a deal breaker.
Author:  wjajr [ Sat Oct 22, 2011 7:17 am ]
Post subject: 
60 Plymouth:
Working on a car during a house moveis probably not the greatest idea.


Nice 61 Delta 88 Oldsmobile by the way, and I can see where erecting a ladder would be problematic to access the basement for tools while on the fly…. LOL
Author:  60 Plymouth [ Wed Oct 26, 2011 4:35 am ]
Post subject: 
Fantastic photos!
Author:  60 Plymouth [ Fri Oct 28, 2011 8:52 am ]
Post subject:  Sensor location
Hi All,

Where are people mounting their choke temperature sensors for the electric choke kit?

Potential places I have are the either of the two lifting bosses, and also a small bolt hole just behind the front exhaust manifold stub. This is a 'wet' hole, loosened the bolt and coolant poured out - is it still a suitable location?

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

All the best,
60Ply
Author:  Reed [ Fri Oct 28, 2011 9:23 am ]
Post subject: 
I mounted the one on my brother's van on the rear lifting hole. It works great.
Author:  Reed [ Fri Oct 28, 2011 9:25 am ]
Post subject: 
I mounted the one on my brother's van on the rear lifting hole. It works great.
Author:  wjajr [ Fri Oct 28, 2011 10:29 am ]
Post subject: 
Located my Holley temperature sensor at rear lifting hole as well, it works fine in that location. An added benefit placing sensor at rear lifting hole is it is further away cold from air flow from fan which may slow its response to head temperature during cold season compared to a forward mounting. The affect of cooling the sensor lower than actual coolant temperature would be slower choke pull off, which may, or may not, matter a hoot.
Author:  60 Plymouth [ Fri Oct 28, 2011 3:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
Sounds good. What's the thread on the rear lifting hole?
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