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| Electrical- grounding problem? https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4678 |
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| Author: | Spazus [ Sat Dec 21, 2002 3:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Electrical- grounding problem? |
Hi Gang, I have a somewhat irritating problem in that my headlights and dash lights get dimmer and brighter according to the engine RPMs. Once I get sufficient RPMs, then everything works kewl. I checked for loose electrical connections and tightened everything up and the problem still persists. I also sanded the blue paint off the voltage regulator down to bare metal to get a better ground. I have a /6 255 in a Dart GT with a new alternator, coil, voltage regulator, electronic ignition all in the past 6-9 months. Any ideas? On a completely different note, is there supposed to be a gasket between the air cleaner and the top of the carb (Holley 1920)? Tom "aka Spazus" |
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| Author: | james longhurst [ Sat Dec 21, 2002 6:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
i'm having the same problem on my '70 swinger and haven't bothered to fix it yet. i figured it's the crappy autozone alternator. -james |
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| Author: | Mark [ Sat Dec 21, 2002 7:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I had a problem similar to this one. I fixed it by going to a 65 amp alternator. The 44 amp that I had on my 68 Valiant just wasn't enough. The main thin is the battery stays charged and doesn't run down while you are driving it. Also you may want to go over the grounds and other connections on the car. After 30 some odd years oxidation builds up and cables that look good aren't as good as they once were. |
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| Author: | Guest [ Sun Dec 22, 2002 6:55 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
My 63 Valiant also has a very slight dimming at idle. When I first upgraded my electrical system with a 140 amp alternator and adjustable regulator, I replaced every power and ground wire in the main harness all the way to the factory fuse box. The system also powers my stereo which draws a maximum of about 75 amps. I also have power windows, locks, additional interior lighting, and alarm system, all of which is on it's own power and ground distribution block. Desipte the fact that all of the wire is about twice the thickness it technically needs to be, at first the dimming was really bad. If I turned up the voltage at idle, is was too high while driving. The problem turned out to be the diameter of the pulley. Modern alternators are designed to idle at higher speeds. mabe your new alternator is just too "new". |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Sun Dec 22, 2002 4:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
First, find out what the problem is. Here is an example, my 69 Polara has the light dimming at idle problem. Put a volt meter on the battery, at idle measured 12.9 volts, at high idle measured 14.4 volts. This is pretty close to being right on. Put the volt meter on both wires at the head light connectors, while the lights were on. Only had about 10 volts at the connector. At high idle, had about 11.5 volts. Checked the voltage from the positive batt terminal to the hot headlight wire at the connector, showed about 2 volts. I am losing about 2 volts , due to bad connection on the hot side of the wiring. Checked the voltage from the ground terminal at the head light connector to the negative battery terminal, Showed about 1 volt. So I have bad connection on both sides of the circuit. I have not fixed it yet, just did the diagnosis, today. |
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| Author: | Chuck [ Mon Dec 23, 2002 10:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Other than the voltage drop issue, the alternator doesn't put out enough current at idle. This is not really an issue unless it just really bothers you. A smaller alternator puley may fix it for you. |
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