I just changed to the timing chain and gears on my 65valiant. At the time i assumed that lining the marks on the gears up was all that was necessary.

Now everything is back together and the car is running badly. Searching the forum makes me think i should degree the cam to insure proper timing.
Sound right?

Fraid probably so

But before you pull things all apart again, carefully check the ignition timing. When you replace a worn timing chain and sprockets with a new one, your ignition timing can move a lot.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Did you align the marks with a straight edge, or just eye ball it?

Sam

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thats not degreeing a cam lol...

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1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=128702
http://www.youtube.com/user/805moparkid

And your comment was not helpful at all. Are you here to help, or just laugh at people you feel superior to?

We cannot help him out if we don't know if he did the proper FSM process. It is very possible to get things off one tooth if you do not use a straight edge.

Sam

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I'd check engine compression in a couple cylinders. If cam timing is off, then it's gonna affect compression pressure.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

The car is a project i'm working on repairing so the timing was trash to begin with. Once i got it back together i spent a bunch of time making timing and carb adjustments. It seemed like nothing i did would smooth out the way the car was running.

I'm pretty sure the dots line up. I thought that was all i needed to do so i was sincere about it and used a straight edge. It's easily possible that i made a mistake though.


How would the car run if the timing set was installed wrong? rough and impossible to time?


I'm working on getting a FSM, for now i have the digital pirate version of the 66' that i found on here. It's hard as hell to use with a netbook screen though!

Much Thanks!

Sounds like the car has never really run well, since you have owned it.
Have you checked the valve lash settings?
DD

Ya. I bought the car rough so i could learn my maintenance chops.

I checked the valve lash before and after i replaced the timing set and believe it to be good. I'll check again though while the covers off.

compression test is noted. i've never done that and would be curious to know anyway.

Lifters run off of camshaft so lash will be the same before and after changing timing chain. What may change when messing with timing chain & gears is the timing, that is, when the valves open & close in relation to piston position.
Compression assessment can show if valves are sealing correctly, and if piston rings are doing their job, and how well that these two items are functioning. In other words, one can determine how worn the engine is, and if it needs repair.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Also, if cam to piston timing is way off, compression may be low due to grossly incorrect valve timing, i.e. a valve is hanging open on the compression stroke.

If you used a straight edge, it is probably safe to assume the dots lined up. This leads us to look elsewhere, as others are suggesting. But if you did not use a straight edge, then the set up is suspect from the git-go.

Sam

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Sam is dead on. Sadly, manufacturing tolerances are not what they used to be, and very often the timing marks on new timing sets are not stamped in the correct place. So, when using new timing sets, it is not uncommon for the cam timing to be anywhere up to ten (or more) degrees off from the "correct" timing position. Finding and correcting this error requires the somewhat tedious task of "degreeing" the cam and then using offset bushing to put the cam where it should be.

The engine should still run smooth even if the cam timing is off +/- 20 degrees or so... the engine will be low on power production but will run and idle OK.

If the idle is rough & "choppy" then there may-be some other problems to deal with first.
A compression check is a good next step.
DD

no your right it wasnt helpful and im sorry to the Op...

but as known just because the dots line up dosn't mean squat... i understand what you ment by using the straight edge but with the way things are made now days there is no reason not to have it degreed.

"Sadly, manufacturing tolerances are not what they used to be, and very often the timing marks on new timing sets are not stamped in the correct place. So, when using new timing sets, it is not uncommon for the cam timing to be anywhere up to ten (or more) degrees off from the "correct" timing position. Finding and correcting this error requires the somewhat tedious task of "degreeing" the cam and then using offset bushing to put the cam where it should be."- Reed

_________________
1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=128702
http://www.youtube.com/user/805moparkid