Ok I have made the following purachases.
Accell SuperStock cap and rotor
Accell SuperStock Wires
Accell SuperStock Chrome Coil
New Mopar Electronic distributor from '73 Dart
Now I thinks all I needs the ecu. What donor cars from a JY wreck can I find one? and does it matter if it comes off a car with lean burn?

Lean burn does not have the ECU. The L-B computer is a black box, about the size of a cigar box, attached to the air clnr ass'y. Or the ESA system has a similar blk box mounted in the fender well area.

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'66 Cuda 225/4spd
'66 Dart GT convertible 225/auto
'64 Dart GT 340/4spd

So where does the non esa non lb computer reside. Also does anyone have a part number for one?

they are located in various spots, depending on year, make, and model. Sometimes they are on the firewall, less frequently the inner fender panels. They are a little bigger than a hard pack of long cigarettes. They have an aluminum heat sink surrounding a single transistor. They also have an irregularly shaped (somewhat diamond-shaped) 4(or rarer5) pin connector on the face. They are held on by two bolts, one on each end. They are various colors. If you look in any mopar mag you'll see them in lotsa engine compartment pics.

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'66 Cuda 225/4spd
'66 Dart GT convertible 225/auto
'64 Dart GT 340/4spd

yeah, most of the stock ecus have the 5 pin arrangement. all the mp boxes i have seen use four. you will need the wiring harness (p/n P3690152) to hook it all up. i bought one from the local mopar dealer for like 15 or 20 bucks. much easier than removing an old one and making it work. even better, just buy an orange box (p/n P4120505) while you are there for another 45 beans or so. ignition is one place where a little cash is well spent. if you must go the salvage yard route, look for any black streaks under and around the ecu area before pulling the part off. you may find the insulation has melted and the box is trash. sometimes the streaks are from old failures but remember that you shouldn't see any circutry. remember also if you have the old point type voltage regulator (pre-70) that you will need to wire in a later electronic unit. you can do this easily enough by clipping the plug off a donor car's harness and grabbing the regulator. a new one costs 10 bucks at autozone. another alternative to this is an electronic one that napa sells (p/n vr1000?) it bolts right in and uses stock connections.
i hope this helps.

-james

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Ok, so I also need an electronic voltage regulator? hmm. I called around and can get a Wells ECU for 35. I found a distrib in good condition at the yard so I saved a bit on that.

What about the ballast resistor? I have heard of some people taking it off completly and some leaving the old one in and some people swaping it out. Anyone have any light on that?

you may need to change ballast resistors to one with a different resistance value, but you must have one. check with napa on that electronic regulator. i have seen one installed on a valiant guru's car a while back so i know they exist under an echlin part number. if not, i can sent you a diagram to splice the '70-up unit into your harness.

-james

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In the diagram I have I have the votlage regulator connected between a dual ballast and the alternator field. Is my existing ballast and voltage regulator no good? If not I'll have to get those too. I really wish the scrap yard hadn't crushed that 74 dart slant car. I know it had all the bits I needed. I saw it today dcrushed under about 10 cars.

Ok so I think I am gonna go back to the yard for another look for an ecu and harness. I'll pick up a new Voltage regulator and a ballast resistor. How much am I looking at for the two of them?

Guys,

I thought I would save myself some trouble and get the MP kit, but I've been calling around a few places and they all tell me that the 225 kit has been discontinued. Apparently all MP /6 items have been? Anyone know if someone still has one laying on the shelves?

Well you can get all the parts you need for the upgrade from napa/uap.
You will need the following:

Distributor
Cap
Rotor
Wiring harness
ECU

Recomended
Ballast resistor
Voltage regulator

I would also take the time to get new plugs, wires, and a coil

I am doing all of it minus the ballast and regulator as a test to se eif it works, I have been told it does, but I'll be buying the other two as well I just wanna see if it works without the new ballast and regulator.

Hmm.. I don't use a regulator any more, running a one wire alternator with internal regulator. That shouldn't be a problem, should it?

Also, do you have a part # for the napa harness? All I found on their website was a plug for the ecu.
A picture of the harness would be helpful if you could

I'll have to check on the part number for you tomorow. What year is your car?