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PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 10:35 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Sat Sep 17, 2011 2:28 pm
Posts: 4
Location: Boise, ID
Car Model:
I love mopars and always have. I've never owned anything else but my truck is driving me nucking futz! My main problem is experienced upon startup. It sometimes wont start in the morning when it is cold even though I have a block heater installed in it. Other times it will act as though its trying ti start but it will fire for a second then act as though its dieseling then white smoke pours out if the carb. And I mean a decent amount if white smoke. It smells kinda like oil and is definitely not coolant I know that fir sure. I have another problem if when it idles sitting at a light the volts drop to around 10and and sometimes as low as 9 (reporting done via autometer gauge) then when I go to accelerate from the stop it will start going then fall on it's face and try and die unless I rev the heck out of it. Also if I try and run my heater when its dark and I have to have ny head lights on and I am driving anywhere other than the freeway then the volts will drop down around 9 and when I take off from a stop it does the same fall on its face thing. My truck is my daily driver so I really need it to run better. Its an 83 d100 that I removed the lean burn from. It has a bbd 2bbl and an a833od trans.

Thanks in advance for the help. Its greatly appreciated.

Jeff


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 11:16 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jun 15, 2008 12:03 pm
Posts: 363
Car Model:
As for the voltage drop, your most likely culprit is a bad battery. I'm assuming your cables are good, connections clean and tight and all that. NO way should your battery fall to 9 volts EVEN CRANKING after it's run for a bit, much less just sitting at a light.

Normally, alternators don't put out enough at idle (slow idle) to keep up with the lights and heater fan and whatnot, but the battery should be able to maintain 12.2 to 13 volts for a short period as you come to a stop and wait for the light to change.

I'll let others speculate about the rest.

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'81 W150 on Propane... Oversize valves, Oregon Camshaft cam, 10:5 static CR, Distributorless ignition, megajolt timing controller, PowerTrax lockers.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 12:41 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun May 23, 2010 8:38 pm
Posts: 454
Car Model:
My experience with electrical stuff is to assume nothing and work from the battery, get a volt meter and a FSM or search/ask across the board for expected results. Sometimes cables do corrode inside out etc.

Having white smoke to me suggests you are burning oil where you shouldn't be. I would suggest you do a compression check.

Hopefully this helps, I am sure someone else will chime in with better advice!

Thanks.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 4:33 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
Car Model:
Brussel's advice is right on. Go to the electrical section of this forum and start reading there. You urgently need a Volt Ohm Meter (VOM) so you can find out where you are losing voltage. There are about a dozen places you can be failing there, and only a run-down of the wiring with a VOM will yield this. It is easy to do, and will not steer you wrong. All comments before that are just guesses.

Sam

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