First Hello everyone this is my first post and wanted to say thanks for such a good forum to turn to.Well the fusible link burned in two right at the bulkhead connector i was wondering what was the technical procedure to replacing this.Is there a spade connector to reinstall or what? I want to reuse the factory connector but will bypass if necessary any advice will be helpful! thanks in advance!

You can affix a spade connector to a new fusible link, or make up a shot pigtail that comes from the bulkhead connector which a link can be plugged into. Whatever is easiest as long as that link is of proper wire gage & length.

You may want to do a little detective work, and figure out the cause of the link to burn before replacing it.

Often the connections within the bulkhead connector are corroded causing increase resistance and heat that is detrimental to proper electrical system operation. Another spot for corroded connections is the fuse block. That is a spot were water from a leaking windshield gasket or debris filled crawl likes to baptize.

I got a fusible link from Napa’s electrical display when I rewired my car. Attached spade connectors to it for easer replacement, and it has served without any problems.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Hi Ridgerunner.
Just wanted to welcome you to the forum!

Olaf.

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Aspenized

I’m sorry, where were my manners…

Ridgerunner, welcome aboard.

Bill

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

...my manners prevented me from saying that I hate fusible links...

Olaf.

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Aspenized

thanks Bill and olaf for the welcome wagon!Bill i rebuilt the fusible link and got it going thank you for the help!This Buds for you

The FSM (actually any FSM) has the procedure for soldering in a replacement link. Remember that the link insulation is high temperature silicone, because it has to contain the molten metal when the link blows. Incorrectly repairing the link can result in a fire the next time it blows.

That said, I had to replace all the links in my '87 W250 last summer. Some idiot PO had probed the links and created pinholes through the insulation. Over time water migrated into the wire and corroded it. The ignition circuit finally blew; lockily it happened in front of my house. NEVER puncture the wire insulation! There are ways to probe the circuits at the connectors without causing damage.

Ken

Completely agree RamCharger. I remember getting into a huge argument with my electrical teacher about that when I was in school. He steadfastly believed that probing wires by sticking pins in them was ok. I explained to him what you just stated and he put his blinders on and said "That doesn't happen."

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<img src="http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f252/sublimeskunk37/WeddingValiant2-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket">

The older unsealed connectors can be easily back-probed (very carefully!). The newer sealed "weatherpak" connectors require a test wire kit, which consists of individual wires to make the connections with the connectors unplugged; this gives access to probe the individual circuits without damaging anything. You should also never shove a probe into a female connector pin; it *will* be damaged. Insert an appropriate male pin and use that as the measurement connection.

Ken

I mentioned in an earlier thread that I accidentally damaged some soldered joints in fusible links while actually checking them for damage! Because you don't see that before they quit working, I had to spend some hours fixing that roadside last summer.

Not being able to see a faulty link is one of the reasons why I dislike fusible links. The other is the reason for this thread; they cannot just be replaced like a fuse, not many people drive around with a bundle of fusible links in their car. No matter the reason for a faulty link, it is a job to replace it.

Despite being familiar with of all the good arguments for using fusible links, I am rewiring the charging, ignition and lights circuits, and checking every inch of other wires, and then install slow-acting fuses instead of fusible links in my Aspen.

Olaf.

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Aspenized

You can feel a blown fusible link. Carefully bend it working your fingers along its entire length. When you get to the blown area, it will feel limp because there are no wire strands inside to make it stiff.

Ken

I WAS feeling for blown links by bending, that's how I broke the solder!

Olaf

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Aspenized

Would a blown fusible link allow the car to absolutely go dead like a dead battery, no lights, no nothing.

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AL

1962 DART 440 4DR SEDAN
1964 DART 270 CONV.
1964 DART GT CONV. CUSTOMIZED
1965 DART GT CONV.

Yes. So will a dead ammeter, a burned or otherwise faulty bulkhead disconnect, or an internally-broken battery cable.

(Welcome on the board!)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I've gotta say that this thread about fusible links is making me a bit paranoid. As far as I know, all of the fusible links in my '78 Volare are original. I hate the thought of one of them going out and leaving me starnded somewhere.
However, my Volare doesn't have AC, a heater, a radio, or any extra lights, so hopefully that is a point in my favor.
I like the idea of attaching spade connectors to a fusible link to make it easier to replace.

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318