When I was driving the other day, I was turning left at a light, and it felt like I was oversteering. Driving down the road, I thought the wind was blowing me around. However, with no wind, I came home and looked at the problem more closely.

It used to be, when I turned the wheel, it took quite a bit of a turn, to move the tires. Now, it is instant. Almost like driving a go-kart. I put the car on jacks, and moved the steering wheel. As I started the turn, there was the standard pressure, but then it freed up, and shot all the way real easily. Bringing it back straight, it tightens up, and then turning it the other way, the same thing. After a slight turn, it flows freely.

Driving below 40 mph, it isn't much of a problem. Driving faster, any small bump in the road causes me to shoot over, and I have to correct it.

The front suspension is pretty new, with the exception of the Pittman Arms. But all looks tight, and in good condition. Could it be the knuckle?

Any ideas?

Year? Make? Model? ps or manual? suspension mods? recent part replacements or alignments?

I had that happen in my '71 w/ PS. My uncle sent me to the 2nd best front end man in Detroit (the best was on vacation) - and he said that the O ring in the top of the PS box was leaking internalally. I replaced it and all was fine.

If you have power steering, the controller or valve body on top of the steering gear may be causing the problem.

Rock auto has a rebuild kit for this device under ten bucks, and contains new gaskets & O rings.

I suspect as suggested there may be an internal leak, or there is some crud causing binding of the spool valve. That spool valve controls the pressure changes as the steering wheel is turned in any direction. If it sticks, the steering will be jumpy, skittish, or just plain dangerously unpredictable.

When was the last time the fluid was changed in the power steering system? LOL

Read in FSM how to service the valve body, and perform a fluid change, and that should solve you problem. It is not hard to do.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Actually, after I dropped it from the jacks, I did notice the steering wheel was off a little. I am thinking now, it is more of an alignment problem, than anything else. It is a 63 Dart, no power anything.

Thanks for the responses. I will shoot for the alignment, and see what they say there.

Steering boxes do have what it called "High Point" when the gear is in the straight ahead position and when turning from lock to lock you should feel it "tighten" when you get to the straight ahead position. This is normal and noticeable with the car on jack stands. Looks like a good time to check all the front end parts out . I'm not sure about you guys but it is really hard to find a alignment shop that knows anything about old cars.

Yeah, if it's out, they can't find the upper strut adjustment.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Dollars to donuts, it sounds like the alignment was set to factory specs- for manual steering. Since Chrysler wanted grandma to be able to drive her Valiant to bingo night at the church, specs (caster) were set slightly NEGATIVE. That gives you easy low effort steering but makes the car track poorly. Positive caster makes the steering wheel return to center, so you have higher effort but a more stable car.

I aim for the following specs on my manual steering cars: camber = 0 (maybe +.25 degres), caster = as much positive as I can get (1-2 degrees), toe-in = 1/16".

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl