Ok I have a 67 valiant(mech voltage reg alt).
I have the following

ecu(I think its a 4 pin, but may be a 5 pin, picking it up today)
Dual Ballast Resistor
Electronic Voltage regulator
Accel Superstock coil
Accel Superstock Wires
Wells Gold Cap and rotor
Electronic Distributor

I have looked at the diagrams in the articles section but I can't figure out where the voltage regulator hooks up. In my manual it show that it hooks up to the lower right pin on the dual ballast, but to what pin on the voltage regulator does that pin hook up to and to what does the other pin on the voltage regulator go?

Also where should I mount the ecu and the ballast?

According to an OLD Mopar Action article I have, they mounted the ECU and the ballast resistor to the right side inner fender. They recommend keeping it away from meltable stuff, as the ballast resistor will heat up. It also has the simplest explaination that I have seen yet on how to do this.

Run the 2 wire connector to the matching plug on the distributor.
There are now 3 wires left, and the red/green wire doesn't get used.
Remove the original wire from the neg. side of the coil, run the yellow/black wire to it, add a terminal and connect. Tape back the original wire.
Remove the original wire from the postive side of the coil. Run a new wire with a lug to the general area of the ballast resistor, but do not connect it yet.
Now get two additional lengths of wire (if you have a choice one blue, one brown). Take the stripped end of one of these (preferably the blue one) and twist it around the stripped end of the blue/yellow wire so the stripped ends form a point. Insert the point into one of the Stak On connectors, solder and push onto a terminal of the ballast resistor. It doesn't matter which one.
Take the second wire (brown one) and twist onto the end of the wire on the positive end of the coil. Crimp or solder on a lug to the tow loose ends here and push it on the other end of the ballast resistor.
Now, with the two remaining ends, the blue wire is the "run" 12V supply that will be live anytime the ignition is in "run". The brown is the "start", the function of which is to bypass the ballast resistor during cold starts. You should now look at the manual for your car, to find where to splice in. The wire you are looking for will almost always be a 14 ga. blue wire. SPLICE the blue wire into this one, but DO NOT CUT IT!!!
Now, look for the start wire which will usually be yellow or brown. That is the wire to hook up to the last remaining wire.

I know it is wordy, but it is condensed from Mr Ehrenberg's already excellent directions. If you have any other questions post them here or send an email to mrmopar@computer.net. He is the guy who wrote the article, so he should have the answer!!!

Good Luck,

Jason
ps, I am doing the same thing to my 1979 Chrysler 300, but I haven't gotten to the wiring stage yet...

Any chance you can scan or take a picture of the article so I can see the original?

I am working on trying to get a copy of it on the computer, but the page sizes are big (900+KB each) so storage is an issue. If I had a darn zip drive...

Jason

Hmm, what format are they in? Try zipping the files up with a program like winzip. 900kb will fit on a single floppy...

Email it to me i'll compress it to a web size and post it on my website for all to see.

www.angelfire.com/retro/67valiant

my email is yonemitsuv@bpl.on.ca

Hey guys,

The Feb 2003 issue of Mopar Action (page shows nice wiring diagrams for both the electromechanical and electronic voltage regulators.

Gilly

OK, lets try that again without the goofy guy with the shades. It's on page "8".

Ok what a scam. I picked up the eu for 35 bucks and I also ordered in a wiring harness. It came with the plug and abbout 5 inches of wires for the ecu. for 25 bucks. Anyway I told him to keep the plug I'll get one from a yard. Well I called around and I found a yard tht the guy says he's got a bunch layin around. We haven't worked out a price yet but I think probably around the 25 dollar range for all of the wiring for the whole electronic ignition.
If you want one post here and I'll pick up some extra ones. I don't know yet if it is the whole wiring or just all the plugs, but he said he's got lots of wrecks I could some off. If you want a set of the plugs(maybe wires too, I will use new wires anyway regardless if they have wires on them) I could probably sell them for about 20-25 usd plus shipping.

btw the ecu I got is a 5 wire ecu and I have a dual ballast so I think the diagram on this site should suffice.

jedi, you can buy a brand new harness from mopar for like 20 bucks with like 30 inches of wire and a new plug that will supprt a 5 pin ecu. i can't remember but i think mine came with a diagram, too.

-james

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Jedi, you're making this way harder than necessary. I believe I said the same thing as James L about a week ago. The wiring kit from M/P comes with good terminals and good HD heatshrink, too.

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'66 Cuda 225/4spd
'66 Dart GT convertible 225/auto
'64 Dart GT 340/4spd

Yes, interesting that the harness has not been discontinued yet but the whole kit has. Silly MP....

about the only thing that makes all the kits (a, b/rb, /6) are the distributors. the ecus and harnesses are the same between all the kits. i haven't checked on them, but i hope the slant mp distributors are still available. they were really nice. i was was planning on buying one.
snooze and lose, i guess.

-james

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Guys -

Just put in the electronic ignition wiring in and thought I'd note.... the wiring diagram on this site is when looking at the harness plug, not the actual ecu. I thought it was of the actual ecu, (I didn't use the harness plug to attach the wires to the ecu, I just crimped some bullets on the wire and attached directly to ecu) so consequently I had pin 2,4 swapped and 3,5 swapped. I was looking in a generic automotive technology book that coincidentally had the chrysler electronic ignition diagram in it, except it had a picture of the actual ecu with the wires going to it, thats how I found out. So again be forwarned that you are looking at the harness plug, not the ecu in the diagram on this site.

The harness kit only comes with the ecu harness. I would rather have all of the correct plugs(whitch is why I am pulling one from a yard wreck). WOuld have end up costing me 80 bucks for all three connectors(ecu, volt reg, and distrib) Although I may just forgoe the connectors altogether and use bullets, Haven't really got into too bad.) Besides its always good fun to goto a new junkyard anyway. Expecially when the owner says he's got lots of old slant cars...