Is the 4 little tabs around the studs at the face of the drum swaging?
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| Putting 70 valiant back on the road https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=47425 |
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| Author: | Ed Mullen [ Sun Jan 01, 2012 10:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | Putting 70 valiant back on the road |
I just bought (but have yet to pick up) a 70 Valiant with <40k miles. It had spent the last several decades in various driveways, but seems no worse for wear (or for atrophy, moreover). There is hardly any rust underneath (for a 41 year old NJ car). My short term goal is for that of a drivable project. The long term goal is that of a mostly stock (save for digital stereo, HEI and front disc brakes) daily driver. The first order of business is brakes. I'm leaving the front drums for now. The master cylinder is shot (pedal fades to the floor without a foot on it). I'm planning on changing the master cylinder, flushing out the old fluid (with the old cylinders in place, assuming they will hold fluid and the bleeds work), then changing shoes, cylinders and all hardware at the wheel (springs, adjusters, etc) and getting the drums cut or replaced. My question is this: Should I replace the rubber hoses just because they are likely original and 40+ years old, or is it possible that they are alright given that they've sat full of brake fluid out of the sun, and not exposed to driving conditions or operating pressure. I am reluctant to arbitrarily change them, as I have, in the past, collapsed steel tubing or stripped the flats of flare nuts in the process. I don't mind eventually changing all the steel lines, hoses etc. but for now would like to move on to freshening up the engine, trans rear, suspension and steering before committing so much time and resources to brakes. Any input is greatly appreciated as always. |
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| Author: | Fab64 [ Sun Jan 01, 2012 1:10 pm ] |
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I also have a project car that I'm told hasn't been driven since 1978. My first priority is to replace all wheel cylinders and rubber brake hoses. My reasoning is I have no idea what shape they're in, and the cost to replace them is relatively low. Especially when you compare it against the potential cost of losing your brakes. Make sure you have the proper flare nut wrenches and soak the fittings with PB Blaster or something similar to loosen them up before you try to remove. Good luck! |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Sun Jan 01, 2012 1:10 pm ] |
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Replace them—all three of them. It's the safe thing to do. And take a close look at all the hard lines, as well. Be sure and get a new (not "remanufactured") master cylinder. |
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| Author: | WagonsRcool [ Sun Jan 01, 2012 7:56 pm ] |
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If it's 40 year old rubber- replace it. When you look at the hard lines, if you see any pitting, rusty "flakes" or scale- replace them. Brake repairs beforehand are WAY safer & cheaper than dealing with a crash afterwards. |
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| Author: | Ed Mullen [ Mon Jan 02, 2012 9:53 am ] |
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ok. Thank all of you for your advice. New hoses all around, it is... How about this then: If I am potentially replacing front drums, cylinders, hoses and master cylinder anyway, why not get a disc master cylinder, calipers, rotors, and disc front hoses instead, and do the disc conversion first? Apart from the list above, I'd need a proportioning valve, front bearings, spindles and caliper brackets. What else would I need? I assume (perhaps wrongly) that junkyard spindles would come with the brackets (I'd ask for them from a late enough vehicle to have the single-piston version). When I look at car-part.com for 75 Dart spindles, I'm getting hits for $50/ea. It seems not buying front drum parts--that I'll just get rid of later--could offset a fair chunk of that cost. What other suspension components would need to be changed to use single-piston caliper spindles? Is disc plumbing similar enough that I could reuse the existing steel lines? |
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| Author: | mcnoople [ Mon Jan 02, 2012 10:17 am ] |
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Assuming you mean large bolt pattern discs you would also need to change the lower ball joint and upper control arms When you go to change the brake hose I would cut the old hose, remove the clip that holds it to the body and then rotate the hose instead of trying to turn the fitting on the hard line. This method prevents twisting the fitting off at the end of the metal line. I would probaly also use a pair of vise grips (good sharp teeth not worn) instead of a flare wrench. To me the teeth marks on the fitting are less of a problem than rounded off corners. Off course pb blaster in advance and some heat from the blue wrench go a very long way. And no the hard lines are the same drum to disc. Use the search feature on this site and you can find more info on disc swaps than you could read in a month. It has all been done and documented many times |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Mon Jan 02, 2012 1:10 pm ] |
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I have an extra fresh pair of nicely built and replated '76 calipers with the upgraded 2½" bore/piston diameter. Send me a PM if you'd like 'em. |
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| Author: | Ed Mullen [ Mon Jan 02, 2012 1:39 pm ] |
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"Assuming you mean large bolt pattern discs you would also need to change the lower ball joint and upper control arms" No, I was hoping to use the stock rims, so by extension, 1970 rotors. I'll read a bunch before I waste any more of anyone's time. (looking through my dad's 71-78 every American car Chilton doorstop, it seems that the backplate is different too.) I am back leaning towards restoring the front drums so I can drive it to inspection, tire store, muffler shop, car wash, and move it from garage to street to driveway while I do the rest of the work it needs. Thanks again. |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Mon Jan 02, 2012 2:28 pm ] |
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Quote: "No, I was hoping to use the stock rims, so by extension, 1970 rotors.
…which would mean you would have to use the '66-'72 4-piston disc brake setup. You can't mix and match parts from the '73-up large-bolt disc and the '72-down small-bolt disc setup. The small-bolt system components are more costly and difficult to get, be advised.Quote: I am back leaning towards restoring the front drums so I can drive it to inspection, tire store, muffler shop, car wash, and move it from garage to street to driveway while I do the rest of the work it needs.
That might be wise.
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| Author: | Ed Mullen [ Sat Jan 14, 2012 10:08 am ] |
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so I'm restoring the all 9" drum brakes. I've read that replacements for the front studs,though available' do not fit right. Is that correct? |
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| Author: | Ed Mullen [ Sun Jan 15, 2012 8:05 pm ] |
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Is the 4 little tabs around the studs at the face of the drum swaging? |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Mon Jan 16, 2012 4:16 am ] |
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Quote: Is the 4 little tabs around the studs at the face of the drum swaging? That is a great picture showing the swedgeing |
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| Author: | Ed Mullen [ Thu Jan 19, 2012 7:07 pm ] |
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Quote: That is a great picture showing the swedgeing
thanks. taken with a $40 phone. The stud i was trying to get is the blurry one.How critical is it that I press the hub off hydraulically? What about a drum puller with a block of wood in between the arbor and the hub, and the occasional tap with a rubber mallet? |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Fri Jan 20, 2012 4:59 am ] |
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Cut or grind the swedging on any/all studs you want to remove. Then take a pipe nipple on the backside of the stud, against the hub flange, and using a large hammer, hit the threaded end of the stud and drive the stud into the nipple. |
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| Author: | Ed Mullen [ Sat Jan 21, 2012 6:59 am ] |
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Quote: Cut or grind the swedging on any/all studs you want to remove
thanks.Do I have to remove the studs to remove the drum?' (I'm removing the drum and reusing the hub and studs.) |
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