What can be done to make my late A body a safer car on the street. It's starting to get icy out and I know the consequences of an impact on a car that isn't too safe in crashes, my brother wrapped his '94 Honda civic hatch around a tree and he was dead on impact, so I would like to make my car safer without doing "race car modifications" like a roll cage. The big thing is the doors, has anyone messed with bracing doors while keeping it looking stock? Are the roof bracings in a hardtop two door sufficient for roll overs?

Thanks,
Seth

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Annabelle: 1970 Dodge Dart Hardtop
1991 Nissan 240sx (sileighty) Lots of mods
1974 Dodge Dart *Wrecked*

Your doors will already have crash bars in them. Good modern seatbelts,good winter tires,updated lighting,bracing where the seats attach to the floor etc... No the bracing in the roof is not enough to protect you in a roll over. If you are seriously concerned about this I would add a roll cage.

I can get seatbelts for the 90's body style f series trucks for practically free, would these work? Thanks for the info on the reinforcement.

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Annabelle: 1970 Dodge Dart Hardtop
1991 Nissan 240sx (sileighty) Lots of mods
1974 Dodge Dart *Wrecked*

I think they would be a safe bet. Anything is better than the 30+ year old belts in there now.

Also I forgot to mention: Frame connectors. They will stiffen up the chassis like you wouldnt believe,and would add some strength if you were ever in a front or rear collision.

Jared


PS- Do you have access to more than one set of those belts? I need new belts in my 87 D100 and would buy them from you.

Yeah I have access to a nearly unlimited supply of f series parts. The guy I used to work for doing body work has an entire trailer devoted to seat belts and interior parts, platinum trucks llc is the company, the guy can be a bit of a jerk, but he has the parts. And lets them go for cheap. I pm'ed you his number directly.

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Annabelle: 1970 Dodge Dart Hardtop
1991 Nissan 240sx (sileighty) Lots of mods
1974 Dodge Dart *Wrecked*

Thank you

No problem, he occasionally does older dodge stuff, like I've painted beds and gates for him before but he may have a straight bumper too just laying around if you still need one, not sure how much shipping would be though from Oregon

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Annabelle: 1970 Dodge Dart Hardtop
1991 Nissan 240sx (sileighty) Lots of mods
1974 Dodge Dart *Wrecked*

IMHO, the best way to be safe is to not get into a crash. This means defensive driving, good brakes/suspension/tires, and good visibility. Your car has the distinct advantage of having better visibility than about any new car made. Shorter profile tires on wider rims are a good thing for handling and braking. To me, tires are THE MOST important part on any car, period. Spending money (and time to choose and fit them) there is the best thing you can do. Make sure your brakes and suspension are in perfect shape would be equally important.

Yes, good shoulder belts are a great upgrade too.

My slanted opinion...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Yes thank you Lou, I do try my best to drive defensively. I agree with you that tires are a big part of it, I rebushed my suspension not too long ago, and I keep my brakes in as good of shape as I can. Also I want newer seatbelts because my inertia reels lock up way too easy, it's a pain just to buckle up.

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Annabelle: 1970 Dodge Dart Hardtop
1991 Nissan 240sx (sileighty) Lots of mods
1974 Dodge Dart *Wrecked*

You need to keep your eyes peeled for a 1975-1976 2 door Valiant/Dart... Having owned a 1974 Duster the belts jambed and locked up like you said, this must've lead to a lot of complaints as the 1975 and 1976 are nicer, don't lock up as quickly (but do great when you jam on the brakes).

Having driven A-bodies in Oregon weather for a few decades, as Lou specified defensive driving is the key...leave with plenty of time to get there even if you are driving 25 mph...if the car starts to go where you don't want it take the foot off the gas, leave plenty of room to brake.
(I can say a sure grip and a manual tranny allow a bit more control during slippery conditions).

-D.Idiot

This thread and Lou's post reminded me of an old car commercial, when crash testing was beginning to show up in ads. A sports car is shown driving quickly at a solid wall. At the last second, it zips neatly around the wall. The dry British voice-over said something like, "We at British Leyland prefer to miss the wall."

Drive defensively. Drive just short of paranoid. They aren't usually trying to kill you, but some apparently wouldn't mind it.

I would think long and hard before reusing old seatbelts. Age and heat cycles are not kind to any kind of webbing, nor are the previous impacts you may not know about. Consider new, please, or at least have the old set rewebbed. And check the hardware and sheetmetal around the mounting points for corrosion. I added three-point belts to my Valiant.

I second the suggestion to make certain that your tires, brakes, and suspension are at least working properly. It's a good idea to update and improve as you go along, as well. Disc brakes up front, better shocks, etc.

See and be seen. Keep the glass clean inside and out, check the wipers/washers often, keep the car nice and shiny, and update those lights - all of them. Headlights, turn signals, brake lights ... you don't know which one might make the difference.

Roll bars and cages can help, but like all safety devices, there are tradeoffs. One's head and body can move a surpising amount during a collision, and hitting a steel tube with your skull is not good for you. Additions like that need to be thought through and engineered.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Sorry about the loss of your brother. I hope you and your family are dealing OK with this.

Sam

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Thank you, yes we are dealing with it alright, it was Thanksgiving day 2007 and it was a notorious corner on a rural highway that almost everyone knows, basically the homeowner dug a trench to get water off his property, but the consequence is that it runs over the road and makes black ice and its on a steep banked corner and its sharp too.

I have softer compound tires on the front of my car, so tomorrow I'm rotating them, its time for it anyway. I am going to be buying some softer compound tires after the holiday, 205/70r14 for the rear and I will put my 195/75r14 up front for now until I get some more money and then they will all be 205/70. I am also going to be looking for a set of disc brakes for the front.

Thank you slantvaliant on your opinion on used seat belts, I think I am going to get a set of F series seat belts and then reweb them. I checked all the mounts when I did the body and paint on my car.

Lighting, I think I'm consulting Dan on this one, once I get money I'm going to upgrade the harness and then do non sealed beams when I can. Also brighter side markers, side marker flash, upgraded rear brake lights with the third auxiliary in the back window.

I keep my glass spotless as is now. I've had people ask if I have a rear window before I just clean it a lot and go at it with razor blades and rubbing alcohol when it starts to get stuff embedded in it.

Anything else I should consider?

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Annabelle: 1970 Dodge Dart Hardtop
1991 Nissan 240sx (sileighty) Lots of mods
1974 Dodge Dart *Wrecked*

One lighting upgrade you can do now for fairly cheap is to replace your headlamps with GE Night Hawk lamps. I have ben wanting to upgrade the headlamps on all of my cars to some of Dan's Cibie's for years, but I have never had the spare money to do it. At Dan's suggestion I installed the GE Night Hawk headlamps on my 89 Ford van and the difference was incredible. I used to have halogens but the Night Hawks are far superior. I found my headlamps at Fred Meyer for about $15 each. No harness upgrade or relays needed.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

No harness upgrade is needed, i.e., you won't burn the car down, but it's definitely warranted. You can pick up a great deal of seeing performance by putting in relays.

And yeah, the GE Night Hawk sealed beams are the only inexpensive headlamps worth buying. All other sealed beams, from all other makers, are junk. So are pretty much all the inexpensive replaceable-bulb lights (and a disappointing number of the expensive ones, too).

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.