Here are some pics of my bulid from last winter- spring finally got time to post. Pics show mod. oil pump for lubing gear, fabbed fuel rail, oil pan mod. home made windage tray,oiling holes added to pistons,mod. bearing slots in K1 rods,head porting

nice photos,
please post on your progress

* what valves do you plan to use, have you flowed them and the ported head?

** what did you do on the oil pump,, guessing that you are using the plastic tube to show the trajectory of the oil spray?

*** have you picked a cam?


thanks
DT

What year head?

Those chambers look nice. I have always made the flow from the plug towards the exhaust. I think I got that idea from a porting book.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Looks like wonderful work. You might beat me to press with that cast/K1 motor. Mine has been on the stand assembled for 1yr, and finally getting top end on it now...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Using 1.70 1.44 stainless valves. didn't have head flowed basicly ported out bowl area to match valves polished rest of port. I think its a early 70s head. Using Comp 264 cam with 1.6 rockers giving about .475 lift. Oil pump mod I found somewhere on this site, can find site if you want. Used dremel to open up pocket under rotors then drilled hole through body exiting at gear. I used aluminum pump for ease of drilling. Motor was run about 3500 miles this past summer

Looked at all your pics and am even more impressed. My guess is you will be disappointed with less than 350 HP. Your attention to detail is fantastic. What were your results from last summer w/carb?

Wanna come to a Slant 6 race??

Best wishes,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I had seen the post on that oil pump mod,, just wanting to confirm that's what was going on there..

I noticed the large radius's at the 90 degree cuts on the windage tray flaps,, nice way to distribute stress and eliminate cracks,,good idea

Ran a blow thru carb the summer before last, on a stock .030 over piston, rod motor. Ran MPFI on this motor, ran lots better. Barry Grant carb that I payed over $500 for was a piece of junk so decided to go with FI on this motor. Got everything from DYI auto tune ran fairly good from May - Aug was a little lean at cruise, under WOT was about 11.5 on af gauge. Then one Hot afternoon pulling into traffic shifting in to 3rd at about 4500 it started missing got it home pulled plugs found #1&6 electros closed up & broken did a compression test, all cyl. looked good, put 2 new plugs in and drove it through Nov. Knew I dinged the pistons but it is a daily driver in summer, I richened fuel map up and didn't have any more problems I didn't get into the boost area much after that worried a piston may totaly fail. Thing is I was not under boost when this happened, I really didn't think it was to lean under acceleration. I pulled motor, tore down, replaced 2 bad pistons, opened up top ring gap on all cyl. Am going to crank triggered wasted spark system, timing may have been a tad high, hopefully I will be able to control it better through ECU. Here is a pic of pistons they broke the ring lands below the intake valves on both pistons in the same spot in relation with intake valve. Any thoughts welcome

Very nice looking project there.

Was any of the rest of either land crushed in? How much gap were you running? KB's do need a lot of gap, especially in a boosted situation. Trust me, I broke one in half with spray.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Just broke top part of land seen in pic. It is really thin there from valve pocket, I was running .035 gap, it definitely looks like the rings butted cyls had little scoring top of travel, #6 cleaned up #1 couldn't get em all out, opened up gap to .055

Are those the +5cc KBs? What's your tartget compression ratio? I was considering using the +18cc KBs for a turbo setup.

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Tony Bracamonte
'66 Dart GT
built /6 w/ garrett gt32
air-air intercooler
330 hp / 440 lbft @ 16.5 psi

Yes I have KB 239 they end up .010 below my stock deck, the head is 59cc with a felpro gasket I have 9.8 static compression, the dynamic compression is 8.2 and that is what really matters. With a centrifugal style super charger like my paxton it only goes into boost when you floor it hard so 95% of the time the pressure is being blown off, it has air blowing through the intake manifold all the time, that helps scavenge the cylinder but there is no boost untill vacumm drops to 0 under 5 lbs of boost my DCR gos I think to around 11.0. With a turbo I think the compression would be to high I believe a turbo runs hotter and i'm not sure how the boost comes in

I think the turbo and centrifugal super charger are going to respond somewhat similar. At least with MPFI and a good tune and an intercooler.

So, how much boost have you thrown at the KB pistons? Were you running stock rods with them at any time?

The engine is looking excellent!

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Tony Bracamonte
'66 Dart GT
built /6 w/ garrett gt32
air-air intercooler
330 hp / 440 lbft @ 16.5 psi

Just 5 LB, the KB pistons would only work with the K1 rods in a cast crank motor, a forged crank motor you could use stock 198 rods if you can find some. The carbureted motor I ran had stock pistons & rods I ran 5LB on that motor also, that motor had a vibration, I though it was in the drive line but its gone in the KB K1 motor

5 lb is not that much boost. You should not break anything with that unless the tuneup is way off.

I am looking forward to testing the new meth/H2O injection and 3" exhaust with the '68 Dart, once I fixed the busted converter... Full runs with 11 psi will be pretty wild.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988