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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2011 4:01 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2010 5:31 pm
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Location: Palm Beach Gardens, FL
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hi all,
I have been away for a while, finally pulled the head off my 65 'cuda /6 due to milky oil. No obvious problem with the head gasket, head pressure test today was good. cylinders and pistons look reasonably the same. Any other suggestions? much appreciated........

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1965 Cuda /Six


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 5:34 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 1:58 pm
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Location: Edenton, North Carolina
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What kind of driving do you do? Was there an obvious coolant leak?


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 6:33 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2010 5:31 pm
Posts: 15
Location: Palm Beach Gardens, FL
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just local trips around town. less than 100 miles in last year. Dad gave me the car couple years ago. I suspected very small coolanrt leak since inside of valve cover had milky deposits but oil was clean. PCV Valve was rusted shut so I replaced it after getting help through this forum. another 30 miles or so and oil is milky in the crankcase.

removed head, no obvious leaks between water passages and cylinders. water would come out of exhaust pipe. no oil in radiator. pressure check of head at machine shop turned out OK yesterday.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 7:54 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Dec 20, 2006 7:04 am
Posts: 258
Location: NH
Car Model:
How long does it normally sit for, between starts? When you drive it, do you normally run for more than say 30 minutes? How humid is where you store you car?

It sounds to me like it's just not driven enough. After replacing the PCV valve, and getting that system working, I wonder if the milky crud was just loosened up enough to make its way into the crankcase, after your short drive. It may just need to be run longer, so that the oil gets up to temp--and stays up to temp--so as to boil out the moisture that normally accumulates in the oil.

Another question: what temperature does the engine normally run at? If the engine doesn't get hot enough, moisture can't be boiled out.

Could reinstall head, and then try to pressurize the engine. Shouldn't need to have coolant in it, but I'm not familiar enough with the procedure to give good advice on how to do it. I just know it should hold 10psi or so for a long time (if it doesn't, then there's a leak, someplace).


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 8:39 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Nov 04, 2002 9:07 am
Posts: 1139
Location: Cypress, Texas, Northwest Houston. The Lone Star State
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My Volare does this sometimes when the weather is really cold. I drive this car everyday, but I don't have a very long commute. It doesn't do it at all during the summer.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 9:19 am 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Yup…with that little use, the most likely cause of mayonnaise goop is simply condensation.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 9:22 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
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Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
My '73 Duster did this because the thermostat would not close completely.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 10:42 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
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Location: Downeast Maine
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Bad thermostat & PCV valve, humid conditions, and short runs can = salad dressing.

You have to drive that thing more, for longer periods, I also suspect fuel system is also getting gunked up as well from old fuel. Drive it enough to use one full tank of gas a year minimum, and add fuel stabilizing treatment.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 5:04 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Moderator
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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I'm with Dan. I've had rarely driven motors, or in dead of winter, have a lot of water condense into/on the oil and then foam up a little. 100 mi/yr is nothing.

Lou

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 7:54 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2010 5:31 pm
Posts: 15
Location: Palm Beach Gardens, FL
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Thanks everyone! Excellent info from excellent sources......

Car is the east coast of South Florida - Humidity central!! Will put her back together with a new 160 degree thermostat (that is what came out) and put more miles on her.

Any suggestions for good sources of hydraulic lifters, push rods and a gasket set?

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Stante
1965 Cuda /Six


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 7:56 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri May 08, 2009 5:44 pm
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Location: Reno NV
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That could be your problem right there! Put a new 180* stat in, I bet it will help. 160* is too low.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2011 11:14 pm 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
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Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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Actually, if it were me, I would use a 195 stat.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 8:28 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Downeast Maine
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Charrlie_S:
Quote:
Actually, if it were me, I would use a 195 stat.

I run a 195* thermostat as well. Works fine.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 8:37 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Quote:
Any suggestions for good sources of hydraulic lifters, push rods and a gasket set?
Why do you need hydraulic lifters and pushrods for a 1965 slant six?

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 9:08 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2010 5:31 pm
Posts: 15
Location: Palm Beach Gardens, FL
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I'm new at this. maybe I have the wrong name. the valve lifter I am describing is in the block with one end on the cam and one end on the push rod. Was going to replace them since they are easy to get at and the rods are showing some orange surface discoloration.

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Stante
1965 Cuda /Six


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