Ok I was installing my ARP main studs today and I ran into a problem on the rear most main I installed the studs but when I put the oil pan on to check for clearance the end studs were about a 3/8 to tall

My solution I'm thinking about chasing the threads with a tap but I'm not sure is there a oil galley beneath the studs or is it safe to run a tap down the threads?
The only reason I'm asking is there was a lot of oil on the threads when I removed the main bolts

I don't want to have to alter the new MAIN STUDS any so if anybody has a solution or has gone thru this before please let me no

Aaron

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http://youtu.be/2Y4i4UOLiSA

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=126611

The Main studs come pretty close to the pan. If you trial fit it without the rear pan seal, it touches. Was that the case? Try using something like the old rear pan seal in place over the rear main seal retainer. It holds the pan up quite a bit.
The car pan for the 70's A-Bodies fit fine. I'm not certain about other pan varieties.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

This is a early a body pan the the rear of the pan doesn't even touch the base of the block its raised up about 3/8 if a inch

Were the pan tapers around the rear main seal is where the main studs are hitting the base of the pan

Aaron

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http://youtu.be/2Y4i4UOLiSA

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=126611

I chased the threads out this morning and reinstall the main studs and got the clearance that I needed

Thanks Aaron

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http://youtu.be/2Y4i4UOLiSA

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=126611

There IS an oil passage feeding the main bearings,that crosses through the tops of the main bolt holes. If you thread a longer main bolt too deep,it can block oil supply to the crank. I remember Doug Dutra "Doc" had a post on this long ago, it might be a good idea to ask him.

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V8?? We don't need no stink'n V8!!

Hey Toad,

Do you know if this ARP main stud issue is prevailent with the early A oil pans? I was considering a set but A) I'm not sure they are needed over stock and B) I don't want to chase the threads down further.

What do you think? Do the mains have any issue on the /6? On all my other tubro builds I've used stock mains and ARP head studs.

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Tony Bracamonte
'66 Dart GT
built /6 w/ garrett gt32
air-air intercooler
330 hp / 440 lbft @ 16.5 psi

just cut the bottom treads off the one on the oil supply side to make sure it`s not going to deep.

I like that idea..


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Be sure to check the oil passageways leading down to the mains to be sure there is no obstruction.
Install the studs and use a long drill, to be sure there is no blockage. Cut or grind-off the end(s) of the stud(s) if needed.
DD

and if i were you I would use one of the old bolts, stick it in the main cap in question and measure how much stick out and compare that to how much is threaded on the ARP studs,

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......