So today I put something in the trunk of the Dart, thinking it might be too tall? Closed the trunk lid, and it latched without any extra pressure. Thought to myself, "Okay cool. Apparently it fits." ...Until I went to get it out, and for the life of me I can't get the trunk unlocked! It feels like the object in the trunk is indeed too tall, and placing upward pressure on the latch/lock. Thus keeping me from being able to turn the key in the tumbler. I tried sitting on the edge of the trunk lid while turning the key, moving the car to level ground to remove any other possible stress, etc. to no avail. Haven't had any recent issues with the lock, before this. Any tips or tricks would be appreciated!

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You can pull the rear seat and unbolt the latch from the trunk lid.

I would recommend taking out your back seat and climbing through to try and dislodge the object if you can, I have no idea what the object is, so I don't know if this will work here or not.

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Annabelle: 1970 Dodge Dart Hardtop
1991 Nissan 240sx (sileighty) Lots of mods
1974 Dodge Dart *Wrecked*

If only it were that easy... I'm a scrawny guy, but there's just no way.

There is a large speaker box and also the aforementioned large object (circa 1924 Medicine cabinet scored for free off craigslist) wedged in the trunk, in-between the back seat and the trunk latch.

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you could drill the lock out, then use something to turn the latch while sitting on the trunk with a set of jack stands on the rear frame to prevent your energy just going through the suspension, and actually to push down on the trunk lid.

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Annabelle: 1970 Dodge Dart Hardtop
1991 Nissan 240sx (sileighty) Lots of mods
1974 Dodge Dart *Wrecked*

Unbolt the trunk lid from the hinges? Maybe that would relieve enough pressure to get the lock to turn?

Thought of that, but hadn't tried it yet. I have no way to confirm that my situation is being caused by the item in the trunk, it's just what makes sense in my head.

So I'm trolling for ideas from locksmiths or folks who might have run into a situation like this before. Certain things to try before I get to drastic measures.

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The latch mechanism is operated by a flat metal bar sttached to the lock cylinder. The bar slides through a rectangular hole in the latch mechanism and rotates when the key is turned. The bar protrudes slightly from the back of the latch mechanism. If the cylinder no longer turns, it is possible something has wedged against the bar and is keeping it from turning. I still say pull the rear seat and try shifting the trunk contents to see if you can work the lock.

Any way you cut it, that rear seat has got to go!



- Mac

If the trunk key turns, but not full range of normal motion the problem is with the latch binding due to the trunk lid being forced closed causing too much upward force on latch.

Chances are good that with help from a second person one can exert downward pressure above the latch, while other person turns key. Once pressure of trunk lid being forced up by object jammed in it is relived, the key and its tail piece (that flat thing sticking out of the back side of lock) will be able turn far enough to activate latch.

To reduce future sticking, keep jaws of trunk & hood latch lubricated.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Just pulled the back seat and had a look. Cabinet in trunk is definitely not wedged, I can slide it around. There is a very slim chance that the cloth I draped over the cabinet got caught in the lock mechanism?

The lock is tighter than normal sliding the key in, and only turns a few degrees. The tumbler has been lubricated with a quality lubricating oil a time or two over the last couple years. It is however, the original lock from '76.

I can still unbolt the trunk-lid and try moving it around while turning the key, but I'm not sure that would do anything for me at this point? Also, disabling the torsion rods on the trunk lid would be a hassle.

I do have a spare trunk lock, so I could drill this one out if it comes to that. However, I was hoping to save that one and re-key it to match my doors/ignition.

Further input welcomed...

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Any chance of snaking a socket on a long extension to the latch bolts?

Trust me Reed, if I thought there was any hope of that I would have tried it already. My speaker box is the whole height of the space above the rear axle, and half the width. So it will slide side to side a little bit, but that's all. Right behind it is the old cabinet I had picked up, and one side of that rests on the fuel fill tube. The other side is roughly in line with the trunk hinge, but up against my bag of tools/spare ballast resistor/trailer hitch/etc. Height-wise, well, remember I thought it was wedged at first...

So yeah. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. OH, and I just realized tonight my cordless drill and batteries are in the trunk...and I needed them for work tomorrow.

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Time to sacrifice the speaker box? You could probably partially take it a part in a way that it could go back together easily.

This sucks. Sorry about your troubles.

Or you can cut the trunk lid off... I have a good one on my dart I would let go for cheap Its even a high impact color! I'm just kidding though, I hope you get it figured out though.

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Annabelle: 1970 Dodge Dart Hardtop
1991 Nissan 240sx (sileighty) Lots of mods
1974 Dodge Dart *Wrecked*