Slant Six Forum :: Update - my HEI conversion is running

Is this a stock engine?
What is your rear end ratio?

Just a thought......I wonder if you have some gas leaks.....at 10 MPG. Have you replaced all the rubber hose with 30R7 fuel line?
The ethanol in the fuel really eats up old the old hoses......some of mine started to melt and break down and were weeping.....

Have you replaced all the rubber hose with 30R7 fuel line?

What carb are you running? the 1920 or 1945?

Check and make sure you have the wires from the distributer connected properly. If they are reversed it will make the timing retarded, and hard to set.

I sure wish there was a foolproof way of determining this. I read that it has to do with picking up the front and rear of the reluctor blade, and that switching the wires can cause the timing to change by up to 30 degrees. Seems like one should be able to look at the way the wires are attached to the distributor ignition pickup unit, and determine the proper way to hook them to the control module terminals, no?

Quote:

There is. The plug on the distributer, has a male and female connection. The male pin on the distributer connector, goes to the "W" terminal of the module.

The plug on the distributer, has a male and female connection. The male pin on the distributer connector, goes to the "W" terminal of the module.

Author:	Fab64 [ Sat Feb 04, 2012 11:02 am ]
Post subject:	Update - my HEI conversion is running
Hi all, I have installed my HEI setup, and I'm having a few problems. First of all, here's what I have: Re-mfg 303690 (for a '74) distributor from RockAuto VC208 vacuum can (11R) AC Delco D1906 control module Standard FD-478X coil Standard CH-410X cap Echlin MO-3000 rotor NGK ZFR5N spark plugs This is installed on my 225, with Holley 2280 2-bbl. When I first installed the distributor, it would run but was very retarded and I was out of slot on the adjustment plate to advance it. Turned the rotor one tooth clockwise, then it was too far advanced and I couldn't retard it enough. However, at that time, the engine was firing up instantly, running smoothly, and turning off by the ignition key. Took distributor out and adjusted the slotted piece underneath so it would allow more retard, re-installed. Now, I can just barely get it advanced to about 9 degrees (probably adjusted the plate too far), but it's running rough and now won't shut off when I turn the key off (had to pull a wire off the control module to stop it). While I was researching this project a few weeks ago, I ran across a post on here with the solution to the not shutting off issue, but I'm unable to find it now. Very frustrated. I would appreciate any suggestions - thanks. Roger

Author:	Fab64 [ Sat Feb 04, 2012 1:15 pm ]
Post subject:
Okay, after fiddling with the distributor adjusting plate a bit more, I was finally able to get it timed correctly, at 10 degrees BTDC. The run-on problem has disappeared - is it possible that was related to the timing being so far out of whack? With the HEI, the engine starts easier, seems to idle a bit more smoothly and the car seems a bit peppier off the line. After reading several accounts of control modules burning out or failing, etc. shortly after a conversion, I will probably not veer too far from home just yet. I want to make sure things are okay first. I am hoping this will improve my pitiful 10 mpg gas mileage, and will report back with results after a few tankfuls.

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Sat Feb 04, 2012 5:30 pm ]
Post subject:
Roger, Glad you got it running! Is this a stock engine? What is your rear end ratio? Just a thought......I wonder if you have some gas leaks.....at 10 MPG. Have you replaced all the rubber hose with 30R7 fuel line? The ethanol in the fuel really eats up old the old hoses......some of mine started to melt and break down and were weeping.....

Author:	Fab64 [ Sat Feb 04, 2012 5:51 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Is this a stock engine? What is your rear end ratio? Just a thought......I wonder if you have some gas leaks.....at 10 MPG. Have you replaced all the rubber hose with 30R7 fuel line? The ethanol in the fuel really eats up old the old hoses......some of mine started to melt and break down and were weeping..... Thanks, Ted. Yes, I did a stock re-build. The rear end is from a '75 Dart, and the tag on it said 2.75 (I've never heard of 2.75 - it's probably 2.76). No, I have not replaced my fuel lines, but I don't see any leaks at all underneath the car. I will check around to see if there's any weeping going on anywhere. I just can't figure out how I'm getting such pathetic mileage. I don't really have a heavy foot. I thought maybe the carb was running too rich, but my plugs look good in this post from mid-January.

Author:	Aggressive Ted [ Sat Feb 04, 2012 6:04 pm ]
Post subject:
What carb are you running? the 1920 or 1945?

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Update - my HEI conversion is running https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=47817	Page 1 of 1

Author:	SlantSixDan [ Sat Feb 04, 2012 6:13 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Have you replaced all the rubber hose with 30R7 fuel line? 30R9.

Author:	Fab64 [ Sat Feb 04, 2012 9:26 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: What carb are you running? the 1920 or 1945? I put on an NOS Holley 2280, 2-bbl, about a year ago.

Author:	Charrlie_S [ Sun Feb 05, 2012 4:04 am ]
Post subject:
Check and make sure you have the wires from the distributer connected properly. If they are reversed it will make the timing retarded, and hard to set.

Author:	Fab64 [ Sun Feb 05, 2012 7:16 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Check and make sure you have the wires from the distributer connected properly. If they are reversed it will make the timing retarded, and hard to set. Thanks, Charlie. I tried them both ways (several times), and think I finally got it right. It now seems to be running pretty well. I sure wish there was a foolproof way of determining this. I read that it has to do with picking up the front and rear of the reluctor blade, and that switching the wires can cause the timing to change by up to 30 degrees. Seems like one should be able to look at the way the wires are attached to the distributor ignition pickup unit, and determine the proper way to hook them to the control module terminals, no?

Author:	Charrlie_S [ Sun Feb 05, 2012 9:25 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: I sure wish there was a foolproof way of determining this. I read that it has to do with picking up the front and rear of the reluctor blade, and that switching the wires can cause the timing to change by up to 30 degrees. Seems like one should be able to look at the way the wires are attached to the distributor ignition pickup unit, and determine the proper way to hook them to the control module terminals, no? There is. The plug on the distributer, has a male and female connection. The male pin on the distributer connector, goes to the "W" terminal of the module.

Author:	Fab64 [ Sun Feb 05, 2012 11:38 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Quote: I sure wish there was a foolproof way of determining this. I read that it has to do with picking up the front and rear of the reluctor blade, and that switching the wires can cause the timing to change by up to 30 degrees. Seems like one should be able to look at the way the wires are attached to the distributor ignition pickup unit, and determine the proper way to hook them to the control module terminals, no? There is. The plug on the distributer, has a male and female connection. The male pin on the distributer connector, goes to the "W" terminal of the module. Great! That's the first time I've heard that. Everything I've read thus far says to use trial and error and see which one it runs better with. I'll go check mine to see how it's hooked up - thanks!!

Author:	Reed [ Sun Feb 05, 2012 12:22 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: The plug on the distributer, has a male and female connection. The male pin on the distributer connector, goes to the "W" terminal of the module. Great info Charlie, thanks. I also had never heard this before.

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