My front side marker light (yellow housing) was out. I removed the assembly after unplugging the connection. I took apart the assembly, popped out the yellow/amber lense, and noticed the bulb and socket were completely rusted. After trying to remove the bulb and not succeeding I carefully removed the socket from the housing. My friend said they sell the socket+wire assembly which can be pressed in and tabs bent down or something like that, the problem is I can't find it anywhere!

Does anyone know where/part number of replacement wire/socket/bulb I can get to press into the housing? Thanks so much in advance!

Maybe this one?

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That's the one I found, but it looks odd since it's plastic. I thought the aftermarket ones were metal with tabs you secured it to the housing with. Can anyone confirm if this is the correct part?

EDIT:
Also it looks like that one has the pop in style bulbs, so I'm just not sure. Can anyone confirm?

That looks just like the ones for the side marker lights on my '73-76 Dusters....The sad part is those things are not the easiest to get in and out of the housing to change the bulb out....I wish mopar had come up with something easier to work with....

-D.Idiot

Plastic socket might be workable but I can't see the '72-up socket working correctly in the '70-'71 side markers: too deep and probably won't seal correctly. Go to the back of the car and take a look at the separate socket used in the rear side markers (access from inside trunk). Those weren't used up front because of sealing issues. The crimped sockets didn't entirely prevent water ingress; most of these are presently in one stage or another of corrosion, often pretty bad. In your situation I would probably cut away the crimped portion and remove the socket, then look at what size hole I am dealing with, then pick out an appropriate snap-in socket (plastic or metal) and seal it in place with a bead of RTV silicone. Wedge-base vs. bayonet-base bulb doesn't matter. Consequences of corrosion are less with wedge-base bulb (bulb doesn't light) than with bayonet-base bulb (bulb doesn't light and doesn't come out of socket) -- that's if you use original brass-base bayonet bulbs. If you use nickelplate-base bulbs, no such problem.

Difficulty is, it looks like there are very few candidate sockets that would maybe work better than the '72+ variety with the '70-'71 lamp housings. Try a NAPA Echlin LS-6520 (nice big flange for a good RTV silicone seal). Takes a wedge-base bulb. Use 168 or W5W (2825) in preference to 194. If you want super bright, use 2886X or 3652. Make the front ones flash with the "cross feed" method; see here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan,
The NAPA Echlin LS-6520 worked perfectly. I shoved it down through the hole in the side marker light mounting fixture backwards (putting the wires down through first), and cut some of the flange away to clear the edges of the yellow lense so it would seal. I put RTV behind the flange when inserting it through the hole (nice tight fit) and then put more RTV on the backside for additional water proofing.
I let it dry for a day and re-installed it today, worked perfect!

Oh, interesting, you put the flange on the inside! I had in mind to put the flange on the outside. As long as it works!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I was trying to figure out how to put it on the outside first, but the lip above the flange that surrounded the socket made for very odd mounting. I couldn't figure out a good way to make it seal and hold in place. Putting it on the inside enabled me to have a very snug fit on the lower part of the socket (below the flange) that the wires attach to.

You're right...as long as it works!