After a compression check on the Dart a couple months ago, and doing a bit of research on what's been done (or in this case, not done) on the car and how it's been treated, I'm starting to think that the #1 cylinder has either a burnt or damaged valve in dire need of replacing, along with all the valve seats being damaged from unleaded, low octane gas.

If I can track one down, I want to put a later model head (so I won't have ot worry about spark plug tubes) on the 225, with a whole new valvetrain (aside from the cam). My questions are

1) What's the best brand of valves/pushrods/lifters to use?

2) Am I okay pulling springs and the rocker arm assembly off a junker 225 if I can't get it already on the new head?

3) How much dough should I put aside to spend on the new head?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

if you're gonna keep the same solid cam your going to have to use your old rocker assembly and rods and i think there's something about the last bolt in the rocker assembly that's a different size it's necked down or something. you'll have to plug the air pump hole in the back of the head too. junk yard heads should still have the rocker ass on them so just use the last bolt it comes with and your assembly. i rebuilt my head for right at 100 bucks. if you change the lifters change the cam. you prob don't have to change valves or springs . the machine shop will tell you what needs to be replaced.
150 bucks tops junkyard head and rebuild

Nice. Lot less than I would've expected.
Did later model heads use hydraulic lifters or something? I'm hoping to get all new parts and have it ported, milled and have the valves ground and 3-angled. Is Sealed Power a good brand to use? They're the only manufacturer I can find that's readily available.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Yes.....I think it was 1980 that Mopar changed over to hydraulics in the slant valvetrain. They didn't really modify the head or block, just changed the oil routing a touch in order to use hyd. lifters.

If you're gonna have a bunch of work done, it's going to be quite a bit more then $150. Shops charge by the hour, and porting eats up a bunch of time. Milling isn't too bad. All new parts will also kick up the bottom line. I suggest the $150 that Moparfiend mentioned was for a bone-stock rebuild/freshening using as many good original parts as possible. Three-angle grinds on valves are typical and shouldn't really add much to the overall price.

Sealed Power is a good parts supplier to use. They've been around for a long time, and have done real well while they've been at it.

Roger

Around here Milling the head alone costs 100bux to take 0.100" off, porting is just something i'd do your self, sure its time consuming and you can get "paranoid" about hitting water jackets but on a slant you have to take alot of beef off to hit a water jacket, plus you get to learn , i plan to use an 80's head on a early 70's block when i build my engine up.


Justin

I figure I can do the porting myself (just have to get a kit and be careful), then take it to a shop to have milled and have the valves taken care of. The porting and milling is for just a bit of performance improvement, but what I want most out of this job is longevity since the car's now being driven much more than it ever was.

My reason for wanting a later model head is the lack of spark plug tubes. Was 80 the earliest year that they ditched the tubes?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

1976-77 is the first year the "peanut plug" heads appeared. (no spark plug tubes)
DD

Sweet, thanks

Now to get a temp job to last me until I go to boot camp...

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me