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| Dash Panel problem. Please Help! https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=47892 |
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| Author: | Philip's66 [ Sun Feb 12, 2012 3:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Dash Panel problem. Please Help! |
I figured I would ask the experts for help. I have a'66 Dart. The Amp gauge fried years ago and in order to get the vehicle to run it was replaced w/an aftermarket gauge. None of the other gauges in the Dash work. Back of circut board is burned and melted Where the original gauge was.Is it possible to run jumpers from the current amp gauge to the circut board to fix the non working gauges ?If so where or how do I connect them. Or should I look for a replacement Dash? |
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| Author: | KBB_of_TMC [ Mon Feb 13, 2012 5:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Q: Is it possible to run jumpers from the current amp gauge to the circut board to fix the non working gauges ? A: Yes, it's certainly possible, but generally it's a very bad idea. In almost any setup you don't want to run your gauges off the ammeter connections as they'd be on all the time. Most people want the gauges to go on and off with either IGN or ACC; also, most people put gauges on a fused circuit for safety. Q: If so where or how do I connect them. Or should I look for a replacement Dash? A: As a temporary fix, but I don't recommend it, a 1A fuse connected to either ammeter connection will give you power for gauges. A replacement board would certainly be the easiest way to go, but it is possible to repair ta board by replacing fried traces with stiff copper wire. You could tap power for the gauges the same way the factory did - presumably you've got power to your ignition from somewhere. Be aware that factory gauges (excluding tachometers) require a voltage limiter to provide pulsating 12V (averaging to around 5V), while aftermarket gauges usually want steady 12V. Running a factory gauge w/o a limiter will quickly destroy it. In '66, if I remember correctly, the 5V lmiter is inside the fuel gauge, and so its 5V output is run to the other gauges, and all the gauges had threaded studs, so you could easily use wire to interconnect the gauges. It is much, much easier to fix the damage with the cluster and wiring removed from the car. A real FSM wiring diagram is worth it's weight in gold. Good luck. |
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| Author: | Philip's66 [ Tue Feb 14, 2012 3:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks for your answer. I had assumed that the gauges and dash got power from the ampmeter since it was disconnected and the gauges no longer work. i will look into a wiring diagram and have found some usefull info digging around in this forum. Thanks again |
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| Author: | Philip's66 [ Wed Feb 15, 2012 2:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Found more info |
On the Home Page at this forum there is an section called articles. Scanning thru there I came across a reference to Dash/Gauge problems. This explains exactly what I need to do to solve my problem. I am glad this forum is available for those of us with these pre-emission vehicles. Info on 40 + year old cars is hard to find. Once again thanks to everyone on this forum. |
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