Hello, itching to get the Dart back out as soon as theres no more salt on the roads, and thought that putting the stock ac back in my 67 dart would be a good thing to do before it gets warm enough to need it.
searched the boards and the internet and found the following checklist from Dan:

"Doing a 134a retrofit correctly so that the system works well and lasts long enough to make the effort worthwhile means:

1. Very carefully inspecting all hoses and very likely having some or all of them re-hosed with barrier hose material so that the R134a doesn't seep right through them

2. Installing all new R134a-compatible O-rings (green HNBR or blue Neoprene)

3. Installing a parallel-flow condenser

4. Thoroughly flushing the system and adding the correct amount of the correct oil

5. Installing a new R134a-compatible filter-dryer

6. Upgrading the vehicle's radiator and radiator fan to give adequate airflow across the condenser

7. Pulling and holding a deep vacuum on the system, then charging it to the correct capacity with R134a.

8. Don't expect much out of the system unless you add significant insulation and window tint; vans like this what you're working on serve as very effective solar ovens and tend to overwhelm the A/C system's capacity to cool the interior down and keep it cool."
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For my application, figuring out how it fits is the easy part, I need to put the factory double pulley back on at the fan, get the appropriate belt, and put the compressor back where it goes. So now my checklist modified to my car, in same order as above list:
1. system had a charge when I took it apart when swapping engines, so should be reasonable condition, will look into getting them rehosed so it stays in there.

2. should be able to get at wherever I get hoses done, like this?
http://tinyurl.com/7xt7s2j

3. So this piece, at around $100, will be much more efficient that a stock one, and make the whole thing more worth doing? If its parallel, would I get one the same height and length as what is stock, (I haven't been underhood lately, but I assume I have a stock one with the stock system?) but deeper?

4.got it.

5. little filter looking thing with a "T" looking fitting on top, whats a good source for a 134 compatible one with the same fittings as factory? (also should I use plumbers tape on fittings for this?)

6. My car had factory air, more blades on the fan than the other slant I owned (74 with aftermarket air) and when that motor made its way into the dart, I put the bigger fan on. Also has a shroud, so should be good for "adequate airflow across the condenser" noted above right?

7. got it

8. It was fully tinted when I bought it, may need to upgrade some of the door/window seals in the near future to help keep cold air in.
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Sorry that was so long, but thinking out everything ahead, and trying to verify that I understand what knowledge is out there before I dig into it. Hoping to finally replace the dang windshield as well this year. Have another tab open with an article about that, and I have the glass, just need to get the 68 up gasket.[/url]

Andy, I have parrallel flow condnsers available. Send a PM if interested. Need to know the size of the opening in the radiator support.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Good idea. Yes, any decent auto A/C shop will have a big selection of R134a-proof O-rings. Put a new shaft seal in your compressor while the system's apart.
Yes. Note that Charrlie_S is a good guy and a major contributor to this community; well worth supporting.
It'll actually probably be somewhat thinner than the stock condenser. You want one about the same height and width as the present one. Size it in accord with the cutout in the rad support.
All currently-available filter-dryer units contain R134a-compatible dessicant. Plumber's tape isn't used in A/C systems; in your '67 it'll be O-ring fittings at the filter-dryer inlet and outlet. Don't recall where the FD is on your '67 originally; if it was originally on the inner fenderwell you can clean up the system a little and make things tidier (and not so much in your way when changing the oil filter) by moving the FD so it is right next to the condenser in front of the rad support panel. You can go directly from the outlet of the condenser to the inlet of the filter-dryer, then elbow off the filter-dryer to run rearward all the way to the inlet of the expansion valve.
That fan will work but it'll be a noisy power hog. Use it for now, but see here for links to a better option (and send me a PM if you want such a fan blade; I have a nice cast aluminum one, minus clutch, on my shelf that I'm not using. You could even polish it to a high shine, if you want!)

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

thanks for the help guys! Charrlie, I will shoot you a pm when I get it measured and get closer. It will most likely have to be check after next if not later, but hopefully before it gets too hot!