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Harmonic ballancer
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=48040		 Page 1 of 3
Author:  slant6proud [ Wed Feb 29, 2012 5:45 am ]
Post subject:  Harmonic ballancer
How do you remove the harmonic balancer, hmm. I am getting ready to put the used slant in my truck and it seems to have a good bit of play in the timing chain. I should replace it right??Mileage is unknown on the engine. Here is another head scratcher, it's like a greenish turquoise and has a 2 barrel.
Anyway being a Chevy V8 guy, I just don't see how the balancer comes off.
Please help ASAP
Thanks
Author:  ceej [ Wed Feb 29, 2012 6:12 am ]
Post subject: 
You need a harmonic balancer puller. Works pretty much the same as on your chevy. There's rarely a balancer bolt is the only difference.

CJ
Author:  slant6proud [ Wed Feb 29, 2012 6:41 am ]
Post subject: 
how do you press it back on?
Author:  rosspulliam [ Wed Feb 29, 2012 7:49 am ]
Post subject: 
I sourced my own bolt as my crank was tapped for one, it just wasn't there. I used the bolt to pull it back on.
Author:  Doc [ Wed Feb 29, 2012 8:20 am ]
Post subject: 
A piece of threaded stock with a large nut & washer works well.
DD

Image
Author:  JCAllison [ Wed Mar 07, 2012 12:30 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
There's rarely a balancer bolt is the only difference. CJ
Hey CJ,
That was what the question I was going to ask was about.

Am in the process of getting Lorrie Van Haul, a 1967 Dodge P200 Postal Van that I've had since 1975, which has been sitting quietly since 1996, and on which I have been working for the past two years.

Have completely refurbished almost everything on the old thing. and am just now ready to get the 225 Slant Six Engine up and running again.

Have put a spritz of AeroKroil, a spritz of WD40, and a squirt of 10W30 Motor Oil into each Combustion Chamber, and wanted to turn the Crankshaft over a couple of times using the Bolt head that holds the Damper in place, only to find that there ISN'T a Bolt there!

How would you recommend turning the Crankshaft?

Had tried to use the Starter, but I think that the Battery that is in Lorrie isn't the best. Would much rather turn the Crankshaft by hand to distribute the lubricants that have been put into the Cylinder Bores.

Whaddaya think?

JCAllison
Author:  hantayo13 [ Wed Mar 07, 2012 3:32 pm ]
Post subject: 
crank should be tapped...just need to source bolt and washer...not sure of size /thread
Author:  ceej [ Wed Mar 07, 2012 5:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
3/4"-16tpi. About 2" long and a big thick washer. Threads need to be at least 1.5" of the length.

CJ
Author:  WagonsRcool [ Thu Mar 08, 2012 8:35 am ]
Post subject: 
You also usually need to to clean the heavy accumalation of dirt & crud that builds up in the threads of the crank snout, before fitting a bolt.
Author:  JCAllison [ Fri Mar 09, 2012 8:16 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
3/4"-16tpi. About 2" long and a big thick washer. Threads need to be at least 1.5" of the length. CJ


Hey Ceej,
Found a 3/4"x 2-1/4", 16tpi, Zinc Plated, Grade 5 Steel, Bolt at Bolt Depot.

http://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Detail ... roduct=569

Need to know what size "big thick washer" is needed.

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Also found this:

http://www.dutra.org/doug/draft-webpage ... -chart.htm

Hope you all are well.

JCAllison
Author:  ceej [ Fri Mar 09, 2012 9:26 am ]
Post subject: 
Your overthinking this. :lol:

It will need to support on the balancer, it needs to be thick enough that it won't distort.

I've never measured one. When I pass by the bin, the voices in my head argue about whether it will work or not. To shut them up I just put a couple in the little bag and buy them.

If it looks thick, it'll work. :D

CJ
Author:  Fopar [ Fri Mar 09, 2012 9:56 am ]
Post subject: 
"the voices in my head argue about whether it will work or not. To shut them up I just put a couple in the little bag and buy them."

Ceej always listens to the little voices in his head. :roll: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Mark & Ceej make my life a real joy!


Richard
Author:  ceej [ Fri Mar 09, 2012 10:08 am ]
Post subject: 
The bolt is one way to turn the engine. Sometimes there is stuff in the way, or it needs to be done from beneath the vehicle. On an A-body, there is a bracket from the K-Frame to the radiator support that tends to get in the way. It can be removed for this purpose.

Another way is to use the fan if it isn't a flex or clutch type. Put a little pressure on the fan belt, and rotate the engine with the fan blade. This, of course requires everything is turned off, and is easiest with all the spark plugs removed. If it doesn't want to move, then go to the bolt again.
Wear mechanics gloves to protect your hands using the fan method.

CJ
Author:  sandy in BC [ Fri Mar 09, 2012 10:51 am ]
Post subject: 
.....and make sure the key is off......
Author:  JCAllison [ Sat Mar 10, 2012 7:25 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
The bolt is one way to turn the engine. Sometimes there is stuff in the way, or it needs to be done from beneath the vehicle.
Hey Ceej,
There is nothing in the way when done from beneath the vehicle.
Quote:
Another way is to use the fan if it isn't a flex or clutch type. Put a little pressure on the fan belt, and rotate the engine with the fan blade.
Tried this, but the Belt just slipped on the Damper.
Quote:
This, of course requires everything is turned off, and is easiest with all the spark plugs removed. If it doesn't want to move, then go to the bolt again.
A friend in Houston got a 3/4" x 2-1/4", 16-UNF Zinc Plated, Grade 5 Steel Bolt for me and UPS shipped it around noon yesterday. If UPS delivers on Saturday, the Bolt should be here around 4:00 p.m. today.
Quote:
Wear mechanics gloves to protect your hands using the fan method.
Right.

Thanks for the response.

JC
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