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 Post subject: block deck dowel pins
PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 7:33 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:11 pm
Posts: 660
Location: Cincinnati
Car Model:
Hi,
I am trying to track down some water leaks on a newly installed cylinder head and intake/exhaust stack. I had the head milled .085 and used a felpro head gasket. I am hoping the leaks are from the intake /exhaust studs ( seeing coolant burning near cyl 1 and 6 by the exhaust manifold ) despite using thread sealant with teflon on every stud. Is it possible the dowel pins are too long preventing the head from seating tightly? Have not noticed mixing oil and coolant, I guess thats a good sign.What have you guys done to the dowels when milling this much and more? Thanks for your help!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 8:29 am 
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Guru
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
I have seen a "tall" deck pin cause problems but that is a "long-shot" in my book.
Was the block deck also resurfaced?
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 12:33 pm 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:11 pm
Posts: 660
Location: Cincinnati
Car Model:
Quote:
I have seen a "tall" deck pin cause problems but that is a "long-shot" in my book.
Was the block deck also resurfaced?
DD
Hi Doc,
No, it wasn't. I used a flat board and fine grit sand paper to clean and prep the surface of the deck. No major sanding just a good cleaning to remove the old witness marks from the original steel shim gasket.
When I measured the piston depth it was approximately .170 below the surface. I milled the head and used a felpro gasket with a goal of approximately 9 to 1 comp. I can say this the car idles and revs nice and starts like right now. I have not driven it :( because of the antifreeze leak.
I think I am going to have to concentrate on the intake/exhaust head studs and use something better than the white thread sealant that I used.
Doc, thanks for your help/wisdom and ideas :idea: !
This has me a little confused :? , as I have done quite a few 2.2 turbo head replacements with no troubles...
Doc, the reason I question the pins is that I can see it dripping coolant from the corner closest to the alternator where the head meets the block. I hope the coolant is making it's way back there from the intake/exhaust studs.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 4:46 pm 
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Guru
User avatar

Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
Also take a close look at the by-pass hose and thermo cover to be sure it's not leaking from one of those junctions, then running to the low point.

A bright light and careful inspection is in order... you can see coolant leaking from the head gasket "seam"... if that is the true leak point.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 5:26 pm 
Offline
Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:11 pm
Posts: 660
Location: Cincinnati
Car Model:
Doug,
Many thanks, I lowered the coolant level last night in anticipation of removing some intake/exhaust studs and resealing them. Today I removed the top outermost studs and sealed them with gray rtv. I also ran the car with the engine at low coolant level for about 3 minutes. When I turned it off I cold hear air escaping from the front near the thermostat housing. It turned out to be the 1/2" pipe fitting for the heater core hose. Bingo! I removed it and reinstalled it with teflon tape. It has run for about a 1/2 hour. The leak has been fixed and I literally just came inside. Sorry for the drama.
This super 6 upgrade has been accompanied by Evans waterless coolant and a new aluminum radiator and thats the main reason for the confusion...was worried about the possible loss of the coolant $$ etc..
Can't wait to dig up the super 6 air cleaner/filter and drive it!
Thanks again for the advice and help Doc :D


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