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What Carb To Purchase For My 77 Ramcharger Slant 6 4 Speed?
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Author:  RUMBLON [ Mon Mar 05, 2012 5:49 pm ]
Post subject:  What Carb To Purchase For My 77 Ramcharger Slant 6 4 Speed?
I need a different carb and I am guessing adapter for mt 77 Ramcharger. Its a slant 6 4 speed.

This carb is a pain in the tail. If it sits very long, its forever pourcing gas down the carb and getting it going.

This is going to just be a little trail rig and I can afford a ton of cash on a carb, as the whole rig cost me $300.

whats a good easy carb and adapter to get this little beast runnign better?

RUMBLON
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Author:  DadTruck [ Mon Mar 05, 2012 5:56 pm ]
Post subject: 
nice truck!

are you wanting to stay with a BBD? or are you wanting to go bigger?

regards
DT
Author:  RUMBLON [ Mon Mar 05, 2012 6:23 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
nice truck!

are you wanting to stay with a BBD? or are you wanting to go bigger?

regards
DT
i WAS TOLD MAYBE A 2280 OR 2300 hOLLY?
Author:  Reed [ Mon Mar 05, 2012 6:47 pm ]
Post subject: 
I would stick with the BBD or a Holley 2280. Be sure to get one for a slant six or you will have choke problems (if you use the factory automatic choke). If you cannot find a good NEW BBD or 2280 (DO NOT BUY A REMANUFACTURED UNIT), my second choice would be a Edelbrock Performer 500 CFM carb with the secondaries locked out. Since it would be functioning as a two barrel, you could get away with mounting the edelbrock on a two to four barrel adapter.

Before you even buy a new carb, why not try and fix the one you have? The BBD is a fairly simple and reliable carb. If the throttle shaft isn't worn, you likely can get it working fine by rebuilding it.
Author:  RUMBLON [ Mon Mar 05, 2012 7:25 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I would stick with the BBD or a Holley 2280. Be sure to get one for a slant six or you will have choke problems (if you use the factory automatic choke). If you cannot find a good NEW BBD or 2280 (DO NOT BUY A REMANUFACTURED UNIT), my second choice would be a Edelbrock Performer 500 CFM carb with the secondaries locked out. Since it would be functioning as a two barrel, you could get away with mounting the edelbrock on a two to four barrel adapter.

Before you even buy a new carb, why not try and fix the one you have? The BBD is a fairly simple and reliable carb. If the throttle shaft isn't worn, you likely can get it working fine by rebuilding it.
I have to ask, what does BBD stand for? I am clueless when it comes to slant 6s.

Also, I need to find a 2280 that was originally for a slant 6? Or do they make an adapter?
And whats the issue with remanufactured 2280?

Thanks

RUMBLON
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Mon Mar 05, 2012 7:31 pm ]
Post subject:  Carb Trivia
BBS= Ball and Ball Single
BBD= Ball and Ball Dual


:wink:
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Mar 05, 2012 7:40 pm ]
Post subject: 
Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. There's an article linked from that same page that describes the problems with "remanufactured" carburetors. You can likely fix the one you have.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Mon Mar 05, 2012 7:50 pm ]
Post subject: 
RUMBLON,


Some thoughts.........
If it takes a lot of fuel to prime it and get it going, it could be draining back or heat soaking so bad that it boils out after shut off. Either way it may be do for a new fuel pump. If you don't want to buy one try installing a fuel pressure gauge to see what it is putting out. If the needle and seat are holding it in the carb it shouldn't drain back. If heat soak is evaporating the fuel out you could add a heat deflector.

You just may need a good rebuild kit. Check the links SL6 Dan has posted to do the rebuild.

Click on the red link below my name to view pictures of my heat deflector. The aluminum is from the local hardware store K&S rack.
Author:  kesteb [ Mon Mar 05, 2012 8:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
If this is going to be a tail rig, you may want to consider a Autolite 2100.

The Jeep guys love these carbs onn their six bangers. This would require an adapter plate and you should use one with "1.08" on the side of the float bowl.
Author:  ESP47 [ Mon Mar 05, 2012 9:47 pm ]
Post subject: 
First thing I'd do is see if the choke thermostat and linkage is working properly. If the choke doesn't snap shut when you first hit the gas, that could be part of your problem.
Author:  RUMBLON [ Tue Mar 06, 2012 8:15 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
First thing I'd do is see if the choke thermostat and linkage is working properly. If the choke doesn't snap shut when you first hit the gas, that could be part of your problem.
IM not even sure how to tune this BBD properly. I see it has two screws on the front at the bottom. Is this how I change the idle?

Im not great with carbs so I guess a lot of trial and error is in order. I have mainly muscle cars and the body and paint is what I prefer to do.

RUMBLON
Author:  RUMBLON [ Tue Mar 06, 2012 9:11 am ]
Post subject: 
The carb in the pics on one of the suggested looks to be different. It has some sort of venting system on the top.

are these two screws the way to change the idle or is the something I am missing/

RUMBLON
Author:  Reed [ Tue Mar 06, 2012 9:12 am ]
Post subject: 
Go read the manuals Dan provided the link to. In fact, HERE is that link again.

The two screws are the idle mixture screws- one for each throttle bore. The curb idle and fast idle screws are on the driver's side of the carburetor. You acknowledge that you aren't very experienced with carburetors. Acknowledging that you have little knowledge is a good first step, but better than randomly turning screws without knowing what you are doing is reading the service manuals and instructions on how to adjust your carb right.

I highly recommend you stop working on the car until you have learned how to do it right. Otherwise you risk damaging something. The BBD is a VERY simple carb and it should take you no more than about 1/2 an hour to fully understand how to adjust it.
Author:  ESP47 [ Tue Mar 06, 2012 10:30 am ]
Post subject: 
Yeah man, a little reading on here will go a long way. It's free to adjust a carb, so you might as well try it before you go buying something else.

First thing you need is a vacuum gauge. If you don't have one, Harbor Freight sells an ok one for cheap. You can use the gauge to help set your mixture screws. 2 1/2 - 3 1/2 turns out is where you want to be. With the gauge hooked up, you'll notice the vacuum going up or down depending on which way you're turning the screws. Just make sure you have the screws both turned out the same amount of turns. I set mine for the best vacuum reading and then see how it runs after that.

Even before you mess with that stuff, you need to figure out how to get it to fire up correctly. Go out there some afternoon when you haven't run the truck that day and pull the throttle linkage all the way down and then let it rest again. Did you get a decent squirt of fuel to come out? Did the choke close all the way? If no fuel, you may have a problem with the accelerator pump. If the choke doesn't close, just look at the linkages and all that and see whats keeping the choke from closing all the way. Could be the linkage is dirty and catching, could be the fast idle screw isn't set correctly or it could be a problem with the choke thermostat arm that pulls the choke off. You may have to remove the thermostat and spray some PB blaster on the coil and work it back and forth so it moves smoothly.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:02 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I highly recommend you stop working on the car until you have learned how to do it right. Otherwise you risk damaging something.
I agree completely. Get the three books described in this thread as quickly as you can. They will save you a fortune!
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