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Aftermarket Fuel Gauge Acting Funky
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Author:  ValiantBoyWonder [ Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:50 am ]
Post subject:  Aftermarket Fuel Gauge Acting Funky
- "Equus 7361 Fuel Gauge" -link to instructions - sec "C" middle of pg2 http://equus.com/Content/Support/Manual ... 1.revB.pdf
- Used alligator clips and thick wire for ground strap
-cleaned all surfaces and sender with electrical cleaner

- Using the shop manual, i figured "G4-18DBL" would be the fuel gauge wire
Image
-After hookup, the gauge would read about 1/4 tank when the tank is full
-i do not own a ohm meter (but will find one soon) to check and make sure the readings are correct - 70-75ohm empty and 10-15ohm full (according to FSM)
-i got out and shook the car back and forth, when i checked the gauge again, it had moved to a little above a 1/4 tank. (i thought maybe the arm and float were stuck in the tank, and shaking the car would get it to "loosen up" ?)
- it does not fluctuate when i turn the dash lights on.

my question is:
maybe i have it hooked up to the wrong wire?
maybe the voltage regulator used on the old dash had something to do with it? i do not have the old dash but all aftermarket gauges.
where can i get a ohm meter without breaking my pocket?
if the float and arm are stuck in a position, is there a way to "unstuck" them without dropping the tank?
Author:  WagonsRcool [ Thu Mar 08, 2012 8:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
You can get a digital Volt/Ohm meter for abour $25 from radio shack / home despot / lowes etc. You can also get a small pack of resistors from radio shack to substitute "known-good" resistance values to see if the guage works properly.
Author:  wjajr [ Fri Mar 09, 2012 9:51 am ]
Post subject: 
Look under “Câ€￾ Fuel Level gage:
http://equus.com/Content/Support/Manual/93-0011.revB.pdf

Diagram shows a 12 volt supply, Chrysler gage uses 5 volts. If you are using same 5 volts that feed the original gage, you need to find a switched 12 volt source for the new gage.
Author:  ValiantBoyWonder [ Sun Oct 06, 2013 2:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
Switched 12 volts? Like from ignition switch?
Author:  Reed [ Sun Oct 06, 2013 3:29 pm ]
Post subject: 
Sure, that would work. Tap into any fuse that has no power when the key is off but power when the key is on.
Author:  GTS225 [ Sun Oct 06, 2013 5:20 pm ]
Post subject: 
VBW.....STOP!
What Reed says is true, but we should ask you a question before you just start throwing wires at this.
Are you eliminating the factory gas guage, or are you adding the aftermarket guage as an auxiliary?
The reason I ask is to prevent you from mistakenly burning up your original guage. You can run 12vdc through the sender unit, but if the original factory guage is still connected to the circuit, you'll burn it up with the 12vdc, and quite possibly other things in the instrument cluster.
I recommend you approach this with caution and added diligence.

Roger
Author:  ValiantBoyWonder [ Fri Oct 11, 2013 9:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
Roger, the cluster is out of the car and the cluster wires are disconnected. as wjajr suggested, I hooked the gauge up to a 12volt fused source, but the reading did not change, still reads a 1/4 tank.
Author:  A. Lewis [ Sun Jan 05, 2014 10:57 am ]
Post subject:  What was the solution...
Sorry to bump an old thread.... :wink:

But, did you ever get this fixed ValiantBoyWonder? If so, How?

I am working on my buddies 64 Dart and we wired in the same gauge and have the same issue. It won't read above 1/4 Tank when the tank is FULL. The sending wire is not connected to the instrument panel and we are using a switched 12v source for power. Grounds are good too.

Thanks!

-Angelo
Author:  ValiantBoyWonder [ Tue Jan 07, 2014 8:29 pm ]
Post subject: 
I've yet to deal with this issue. I would take a voltmeter with an ohm setting and check the resistance and see if its within the gauges values. If not, I would suspect float or sending unit.
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