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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 12:50 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Thu Sep 06, 2007 11:02 am
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Location: Charlotte, NC
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I have installed a 1974 slant six from a Duster in to my 1962 Town Wagon which runs great but I now have a mis-match between my old Stewart Warner mechancial Oil and Water temp gauges and the electical senders.

I have been looking at my options. As much as I like my current mechanical guages I dont think there is any way to make them work with the later engine.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Derek


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 1:13 pm 
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Don't see why you couldn't make them work with the newer engine. What's preventing you installing the senders in the new engine where they were in the old engine?

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 1:58 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Location: Charlotte, NC
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I haven't looked at it for a while but I'm fairly sure the old mechancial sender units from the 62 has a larger thread than the ones in the 74 engine.

Am I mistaken?

Thanks for your help


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 2:19 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: Amarillo, Tx USA
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Quote:
I haven't looked at it for a while but I'm fairly sure the old mechancial sender units from the 62 has a larger thread than the ones in the 74 engine.

Am I mistaken?

Thanks for your help
Not for sure of the size differences, but any hardware store will have the brass fittings you would need....

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 2:32 pm 
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Time to get out the drill and tap...
DD

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 5:38 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Thu Sep 06, 2007 11:02 am
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Location: Charlotte, NC
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I've just taken a closer look at the oil pressure sender and my mechanical fitting. Here are some pics:

Will this:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/35716845@N00/7062699891/" title="Mechanical connection from 62 Town Wagon by derek at, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7071/7062699891_7da0071b54.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="Mechanical connection from 62 Town Wagon"></a>

Fit in here:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/35716845@N00/6916616924/" title="Electrical Connection from 74 Duster engine by derek at, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5240/6916616924_e72cf07fcb.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="Electrical Connection from 74 Duster engine"></a>

Are you supposed to be able to unscrew the old electrical sender by hand with that dial type thing?

I've also realized that I left the old sender in the old engine (long gone) as it broke off so I will have to get creative there though I do like Doc's creative approach.

While I'm loading photos, here is the beast:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/35716845@N00/6916647066/" title="1962 Dodge Town Wagon by derek at, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7081/6916647066_36893a34f7.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="1962 Dodge Town Wagon"></a>

Derek


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 8:21 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2007 1:17 pm
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Location: Jacksonville, Fl
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no it won't fit but you can go to any parts store, and your best bet would have them look up the oil pressure sender for you pull it out of the box and try and match the sender, thinkin 3/8NPT, and find a brass adapter that you can screw that fitting into. BTW is that plastic tubing on the back of that old fitting ?? if so sun pro makes a really nice copper tubing kit complete with adapters and the copper line, in my experience never ever ever ever run plastic tubing in the cabin that will be a mess or worse ie oil, trans fluid, gas etc,

-Mike

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 9:52 pm 
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Can't tell what thread size your oil pressure sender is, but looks like 3/8" NPT, which is also the thread size of the oil pressure sender; if so it should fit in place of the electric sender. Some engines came with a smaller-thread sender; in this case remove the reducer bushing from the oil pump and screw the mechanical sender directly into the oil pump.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 10:04 am 
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If the mech. gauge tube adapter is something like 1/4" pipe thread (NPT) then you can get a brass reduction bushing that will fit in the oil pump where the late-model electrical switch for the oil light is (3/8" NPT). Loosen the nut at the tube itself so you can spin the fitting without twisting the tube (or get a new copper tube kit as suggested)

For the temp gauge you'll have to figure out the fitting size (I compare my unknown fitting with hardware store pipe nipples in various sizes) & see how creative you can get. As I recall some year heads only had heater nipples & 1/8" NPT gauge sender holes. I've heard of some folks (carefully) drilling & tapping the head out to 1/4" NPT. Or you can try "frankensteining" a pipe T into the upper heater hose fitting.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 10:16 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2004 10:50 am
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Location: Stevensville, ON
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I've added a tee so that I can continue using my warning lamp and also have a functional oil pressure gauge.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 4:38 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Location: Tri Citys,Washington
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Just out of curiosity is the water hole on the side of the block an option for the temp sender.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 6:00 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: Amarillo, Tx USA
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Quote:
Time to get out the drill and tap...
DD

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Ummm wouldnt that be on the 'cold' side of the thermostat? I would think the sender for the water temp would be the brass fitting right @ the edge of picture toward the bottom.




But to answer OP last question, not for sure what "hole" you are referring to.... I would just go to your friendly auto parts store and buy the sender/installation kits for mechanical gauges, they usually have all the various sized brass reducers/fittings you need,included in the kits. The OEM oil sender will unscrew using the 'dial' looking thing, but not by hand, a wrench or even better a socket made for senders. (yes they make them, the auto store SHOULD have them). It may well be a 1/4" npt, in that case remove the (what looks like) the 3/8" bushing from the oil line and screw the 1/4" fitting (that is on the line itself) in its place. You are going to have to loosen all the fittings anyways to let them turn without twisting up the line, and same on the water temp. I would put it where the OEM sender is located also.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 6:04 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 4:12 pm
Posts: 456
Location: Amarillo, Tx USA
Car Model:
Quote:
no it won't fit but you can go to any parts store, and your best bet would have them look up the oil pressure sender for you pull it out of the box and try and match the sender, thinkin 3/8NPT, and find a brass adapter that you can screw that fitting into. BTW is that plastic tubing on the back of that old fitting ?? if so sun pro makes a really nice copper tubing kit complete with adapters and the copper line, in my experience never ever ever ever run plastic tubing in the cabin that will be a mess or worse ie oil, trans fluid, gas etc,

-Mike
I do agree, seems no matter how well the plastic lines are sealing, after about 2 months they begin to weep, then drip, then pour... But I would NEVER route a fuel line into the cabin area, thats why they make the isolators for fuel pressure gauges.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 7:19 am 
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Quote:
Just out of curiosity is the water hole on the side of the block an option for the temp sender.
Yes, but it's a poor one. You don't care about the temperature of the water at that low/rearward location, you want to know the temperature of the water at the top/front of the system.
Quote:
Ummm wouldnt that be on the 'cold' side of the thermostat?
Yes, and that's a good place for it. Lets you see the thermostat open by watching the temp gauge.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 12:35 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2011 12:58 pm
Posts: 569
Location: New Jersey USA
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That bung on the stat housing would be a good place for an electric radiator fan control switch. (that's what I used on a previous A-body installation)

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63 Valiant Wagon
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