Here it is.

This past weekend I went to the folks place and pulled my 66 Fury out of storage and started the spring tune up. Drove it to the corner Store to get the fluids going and fill the tank, giggling like a kid the whole way.

I get back to the folks place and start with the spring tune up, I visually check the points, distributor, and rotor, Pop the cap back on and do the timing with my brother. At this point my Dad comes out and asks if I checked the gap on the points. Me sheepishly " No, but they are still there.

I turn the engine off.I turn the engine so the point is on a lobe, All I hear is " How was this running, there is no gap?" He get me to check, yep no gap. So we gap it, go in for supper and comeback out and give it a crank.

It turns like it wants to go, but no spark.

I changed the Ballist resistor, ignition coil, and the condenser(got the wrong points ) the point are worn but they should still work(as they did before)

I'm at a blank here, my ignition system(whole car) is stock.

Any thing at this point would help ( even a bad joke)

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66_Fury
Old man Sherman wishes for 1 more Barrel.

A wolf that lies in his lair never gets meat, or
A sleeping man victory.

Did you gap them with a feeler gauge? Even a tiny bit of oil or grease on the feeler gauge will stop your points from working correctly.

Get the correct new points, install them, gap them, then wash down with a bit of Electro-motive spray. Let it dry, put the cap on, then try to start it.

If it still wont fire, put the probes of an analog voltmeter (one with a needle as a readout) across the plus and minus terminals of the coil. Cranking the engine should make the needle swing rapidly between 12 volts (points closed) and 0 volts (points open).

If that test comes out ok, then check to see if you have spark while cranking.

- Mac

It's also possible that you flooded it.

Yep, gapped them with a feeler, I don't belive it was greasy.

Pulled the points sanded them and popped them back in and re-gapped.

My Dad got a volt-a-meter a few months back and is going to get a lesson from one of his election buddies this week, and we're going to be chasing wires.

Is there anything else in the ignition system I may have over looked?

I don't understand how it could be running, then not. But I'm not mechanic.

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66_Fury
Old man Sherman wishes for 1 more Barrel.

A wolf that lies in his lair never gets meat, or
A sleeping man victory.

Was all the work done with the distributor still in the engine? (it was never removed)

The points act as a "controlled ground" switch for the coil so any conductive "crud" or grounding / poor grounding will defeat the switching action...
The most common problems:
1) "Short" at the attaching wires, they can rotate and ground-out to the distributor, when tightened or
2) There is oil / dirt under the point set, that prevents a good ground path.
DD

The tungsten on points is very thin. A point file or sandpaper will wipe it out in short order. If the points were burned or pitted, then they are gonners. If you need to clean up an old set of points, remove as little material as possible, and plan to replace the points ASAP. They will not live long with the tungsten coating removed. One pass with sandpaper will remove the tungsten.
Carefully check to make sure the connectors aren't shorting after the swap. Make sure the insulator where the points wire up is intact, and the connector is isolated from ground. If the connector is on the wrong side of the insulator, your coil will be shorted to ground.
Use a test light to see if you have voltage at the connector inside the distributor when the points are open.

I've see a lot of bad condensers come out of a new box. Verify the condenser isn't shorting the primary out, or burning the points due to improper capacitance.

The way your ignition works is: When the points open, the field made by the primary collapses. It is when the field collapses that the secondary side of the coil "Fires." If there is a path to ground, the field won't collapse, and there will be no spark at the plug. The condensor is a capacitor. The primary winding is inductive, so will want to push current through the point gap. THe condensor gives the current somewhere to go. The capacitive reactance of the condensor absorbs the energy as the field collapses.

If you remove the cap and have someone turn the engine over, you should not see an arc across the point gap. If you do, the condenser is bad. A bad condenser will burn the points very quickly.

Clear as mud?

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

To DD

Was all the work done with the distributor still in the engine?
All work was done in the car.

The most common problems:
1) "Short" at the attaching wires, they can rotate and ground-out to the distributor, when tightened.
... This I haven't checked yet.

2) There is oil / dirt under the point set, that prevents a good ground path.
I don't believe so, but I will check.

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66_Fury
Old man Sherman wishes for 1 more Barrel.

A wolf that lies in his lair never gets meat, or
A sleeping man victory.

To CJ

I have the rough idea how points work , me being young & stupid never hurts getting it explained in a different fashion.
However I never understood what part the condeser played in the road show, Thanks.

My dad & I tried the good old spark plug tester on all spark plugs nothing. He also tried up against the fender & block with the same results.

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66_Fury
Old man Sherman wishes for 1 more Barrel.

A wolf that lies in his lair never gets meat, or
A sleeping man victory.

You have remembered to replace the rotor ?

Do'nt ask me why I have asked this question !

regards,Rod

Do as Ceej suggested
Use a test light to see if you have voltage at the connector inside the distributor when the points are open.

a simple 12 volt style will work.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

close points...install a plug in coil wire/ground.....with key on,open points ,should make spark at plug....make sure rotor is in place ...LOL ...I know why he asked you that

My Dad asked the same thing.

So I dug in my pockets & replied " &#@% yeah, It's in there!"

he laughed, " Thought I'd ask" was his reply.

I know why the question was asked too.

I have done something like that, But I try to learn after my stupid mistakes.

My Dad was more into Fords & GMs during this time, but he had help buddies out with Mopar products.

Thanks for all the help, it is nice to have the access to people that play around the product.

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66_Fury
Old man Sherman wishes for 1 more Barrel.

A wolf that lies in his lair never gets meat, or
A sleeping man victory.

Always pull the distributor to replace and adjust the points. It's just so dang near impossible to do it successfully at the weird angles required with the distributor installed that you're more or less guaranteed to wind you up with wrong (or no) point gap. Try this: Remove the coil wire from the central tower of the distributor cap. Remove the cap from the distributor. Visually verify the points are closed. Turn the ignition key to the on (run) position. Hold the cap end of the coil wire about 1/4" away from a convenient chunk of metal under the hood and use a pencil or screwdriver to push the points open. If you get a spark from the coil wire to the chunk of metal every time you do this, your gap's just screwed up.

It will pay you immediately and enduringly to go away from breaker points forever, either with the HEI upgrade or with a Pertronix kit.

To remove and replace the distributor successfully, first rotate the engine until the rotor is pointing somewhere easily recognised: 12:00 straight up or 3:00 straight forward or 6:00 straight down or 9:00 straight rearward. It doesn't matter which of these you pick; the goal is to be able to get the distributor reinstalled with the rotor pointing the same direction.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

OK, guys.

I think it was a combo of grease under the points and shot points.
After a drink He started with a bit of a fuss.

But Sherman Lives again.

Thanks for all the help.

Wil

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66_Fury
Old man Sherman wishes for 1 more Barrel.

A wolf that lies in his lair never gets meat, or
A sleeping man victory.