This is a little trick I use to set rough time when replacing a distributer.

Remove valve cover , locate #1 cylinder. Turn engine till you see intake valve open...then close. Keep turning and Line up the damper mark to the desired mark on the timing tab.....say 8 BTDC. (I know , I know...yours is 12)


Remove distributor cap. Turn Rotor till it lines up with where you want #1 cylinder wire. lower the distributor into the block. The rotor will rotate as the drive teeth interface with the cam. Get the body of the dist located correctly then play with the rotor till you have it on the right tooth that points the rotor to #1 position. Bolt it down gently , add cap and wires.

Loosen the dist clamp so you can adjust the timing.

Turn on the ignition but dont engage the starter. Becareful if there is fuel in the cylinder you can scare yourself pretty good.

With the timing light connected to #1.....turn the distributor back and forth till you get/hear spark or see the light. Narrow down where this occurs .....and clamp it back down.

Fire it up and time it.

I dont even use the timing light sometimes because I can hear the spark.

Remember ....if there is fuel in the cylinders .....and you hit the right timing .....itlll frikken start.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Another trick borrowed from the EFI guys (they use a cap like this to check static distributor phasing if they aren't running a distributorless ignition system)...if you still have trouble lining #1 up to the wire post, take an old worn out distributor cap and use a drill to drill a 3/8-7/16" hole in between the center tower and the #1 tower...install rotor, install cap...install distributor per Sandy, line rotor up with hole in cap and line up with #1 wire tower, lock it down, replace with good cap and rotor and time away....



-D.Idiot

I use an old cap with the whole center cut out, just leaving the plug towers intact. That will let you see where the rotor is pointing

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I eyeball where the rotor is pointing prior to removing the distributor and put it back in so it is pointing in the same place. If it is going to be out for a while, I put a dot of white-out on the distributor body where the center of the rotor is pointing.

"Frikkin start." Reminds me of the last time I had to set a slant timing from scratch! Wait for then end when I find out why it is important to seat plug wire boots all the way onto the terminals!

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.